To change the oil there is a 17mm nut I believe is the size on the bottom of the motor u should have the motor hot or up to temp to drain the most of it and u will also need to remove the lower fairing on the right side to do this I used a hole saw so I did not have to remove it everytime
The best oil well everybody had there own opinion but to break the motor in use a regular motorcycle oil the first 4 tanks make sure it is a motorcycle oil 10w40 cuz regular car oils won't work after that u can switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 for motorcycles to set the idle u want it high enough to run without dying but low enough so its not racing the motor usually its the screw with a spring on it im not sure about your carb without a pic
And yes u can clean it with carb cleaner but I don't know why if its a new carb
so the stuff im going to go pick up at auto-zone is castrol/1qt.10w-40 4t 4 stroke motorcycle oil
the stuff im goin to be ordering is the back break assembly for rear and pedal assembly and 24mm carb and racing cdi
also im going to be also picking up some custom screws for the bike what do u think about the oil brand above i will be stripping the bike and also cleaning the frame up with the high pressure hose to get all that dirt and stains off
ok thanks about the oil but why does my engine both sides oil and magneto get hot in like 10 minutes and the bike will stay idle sometimes but when i hit the throttle i sounds like its gonna shut of and gives this very deep noise any ways ima get a 24mm carb and brand new spark plug and some castrol 10w-40 oil for it and yes the wiring is correct please help me thanks,shawn
i cant figure that out from your other thread i was talking to u on but try the new carb
you will have to get a jet kit for it most likely
and u may need to down jet it i tune it by looking at the plug i get at least 4 new ngk plugs from my local parts store and run it stock settings if it will run then i pull the plug and c what color it is
black too rich must lean out the carb
white too lean must richen up the carb
brown/almost cleanish perfect just right
i start by moving the needle clip in the carb up or down depending on if its rich or lean if i go all they way up i need a smaller main jet and so on
use a new plug each time u change the carb settings the screw is only for minor adjustments
i try to keep the needle as close to the middle as possible i think that is the correct way to do it i could be wrong tho lol but it works for me because if i got a hot muggy day i can mess with the srew a bit or move the needle a little to make it run better and if i got a dry cooler day i can also do the same
and if you buy a box then you will have enough plugs for the life of your bike lol
in california the oil probably thins out a lil with all the heat too no?
im probably wrong but heck, i tried. lol!
i use amsoil full syn motorcycle oil in mine.
once in a pinch i used there euro car syn oil......
worked just fine.
but it made the bike more expensive to fix, musta been the "european" in it!
lol just kidding!
i used to use their 2 stroke oil, but at 10 bucks a quart it got expensive.......
epr, in cars and trucks the main thing (or one of)that determines oil weight is crank bearing clearance
older cars with worn or loose specs can use thicker oil, newer cars ive seen take 0w20 cuz the clearances are so tight, if you put 5w30 in that the crank or bearings would warp or burn up
our motors arent that bad but its tight in spots