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New to the pocket bike world

31K views 379 replies 7 participants last post by  EPR 
#1 ·
Thanks for the add! I've recently picked up an x2 pocket bike roller. Everything electrical has been stripped from the bike, so it'll be a while before I can hear her run. I'm excited to get it on the road, hopefully sooner than later.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Welcome to the site.....An X2 isnt a complicated machine....you dont need any wiring to get it running....The wiring is for the electric starter and the charging system aswell as lighting and which is more of a novelty because the generator/starter combo doesnt last very long......the main thing pertinent is the killswitch to shut it down and the pushbutton on the throttle can be utilized to kill the engine ..........

If you notice the engine is the same thing as a weedeater or backpack blower....just pull and it will run aslong as the two wires coming from the coil arent touching and the coil isnt fried from 12volts being powered into it plus the carb is good and hooked up right also good compression....

Id check it for spark with the pullstarter and give it a compression test as a couple X1's and 1 X2 I bought over the years had completely toasted topends and 1 had loose cylinderhead base screws..

If you dont get atleast 80psi get a new topend,,,theyre cheap...Like $30 bux...

Good Luck
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the information regarding my bike. It seems to have good compression but it has been sitting for a while so I'm sure the carb will need to be cleaned before it'll run decent. I've ordered a wire harness, solenoid, battery, regulator, and pull starter to get it back to a more original setup. I'm having trouble distinguishing the correct cdi for it though. I believe it is a 5 pin but I'm not sure what the difference between 2 and 4 stroke 5 pin cdi setups? Any information on them would be appreciated.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Original adds weight and bone stock an X2 hits only 32mph if it is indeed an X2 with belt driven CVT transmission and not a 43cc X1 with chaindriven trans....

The bike doesnt have a CDI....Youre looking for a 4 pin rectifier for the charging system....I think youre also missing the 4 wire keyswitch


Before I spent all that loot I would of got it running by jumping the starter motor direct getting the engine running first to see if theres any power being generated because those starter/generator combos arent ten bux....

To get them faster with more takeoff power removing all the wiring and gutting the e-starter is one of the mods so I hope you dont want to upgrade it....LOL



X1



X1 transmission



X2



X2 Transmission

 
#8 ·
The fuel lines and tank aren't hooked up, so it only ran til the fluid burned up. The belt seems a little loose and stretched out. It will probably need to be replaced before it gets ridden for an extended period. I appreciate all the feedback, man. Thanks for spittin some knowledge at a newbie.
 
#9 · (Edited)
No problem......The way those transmissions work is this....


If you look at the way the belt sits now the belt going around the forward sheave is alot less compared to how it sits on the rear sheave............

As the bike accelerates the roller weights inside the power sheave housing of the CVT transmission applies pressure from centrifugal force to the pressure plate which squeezes side pressure on the belt to ride towards the outside of the power sheave and at the same time the drive sheave in the rear of the trans splits in half and allows the belt to variate or swap positions to give the bike a higher topend speed.................

Good Luck
 
#11 · (Edited)
The pumper diaphragm is probably deformed a lil ...thy run forever like that

Lots of people dont know and havent known up to maybe 5 years ago when I discovered the Lowspeed adjustment screw on those pumper carbs....

Youll only see 2 visually.........The idlespeed adjustment and the fuel rate adjust screw............The lowspeed needle adjustment is kinda hidden,,

As the barrel rotates it raises up too.....At the top is a tapered needle that fits into the emulsifier tube......The needle is adjustable to control idle and off idle all the way to WOT too and the way to finetune the topend outcome it is to adjust the fuel rate screw then readjust the LSN aswell as the idle screw if needed.........

The adjustment screw for the LSN is inside the center of top slotted brass screw in the rotator...



You need a tiny slotted jewelers screwdriver to adjust it............

Heres a crappy vid I made

 
#13 ·
I had no idea about the hidden adjustment screw, that information is going to help me out today. I plan on taking the carburetor off and giving it a good cleaning. I have a spare carb that I removed from a 33cc zooma scooter, so hopefully between the two of them I'll have everything needed to get her running decent. I also had a new set of fuel lines with the fuel filter on it, but it is a plastic filter that I purchased for the scooter as well. I'll keep you posted on any progress made. Thanks again.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Under the plastic part that houses the primer bulb is a small strainer screen....

Make sure to be careful and not bend the pumper needle actuator lever...

I had one of those Zoomas...Found it half submerged in a creek and fixed it up.......LOL

The carbs on them are smaller than the 49cc engine...

]

 
#15 ·
Is the zooma carburetor physically smaller or just jetted different? I'm just going of of memory but they looked similar in size. I purchased a new carb for the scooter as well as a velocity stack and pod filter, and that is why I have the extra one. I posted the scooter locally on a couple different sites and have had a tremendous amount of interest in it. I picked it up as a small project without knowing anything about them.
 
#18 · (Edited)
That Zooma is a 13mm carb the 49 has a 15mm carb, CAM2 took one apart and hogged it out to 19mm w/ that tapered front opening. So, many things you can do to make more power w/ just hand tools and a Dremel. Here are two I made, the red head/chopped cyld Cag engine I sold new for $200, had way more labor than $200. The gold head engine I just finished, everything from the flywheel w/ rocket key to modified hp clutch, not sure how much compression buts its high. The top of the piston goes into the compression cap area, had to modify the piston to make it work. I would sell it for $250 shipped with 15mm stock pumper carb. I just put on a 16mm Walbro WT-813 carb on it, want $280 with the 813.
 

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#19 ·
All of those machines look amazing! You guys obviously know what you're doing! If I had $280, I would definitely PayPal it to you immediately to have an awesome motor like that. Maybe in the future?
I do like seeing the the what you guys have done to your bikes, it definitely gets my imagination going.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I definately hear ya..Ive done and built quite a few off the wall and ridiculously crazy projects..

This is just some whip it together in a weekend or two kind of stuff.............












This one took a lil longer because theres a custom built chassis n a-arms built by me....28 days total....

 
#21 ·
Those are great! That twin engine bike looks pretty fun.

It all started for me with what I think was a mta1 that I picked up cheap and doubled my money. I was hooked after that.I even bought one of those cheap big bore motors off of ebay. Probably not the smarest purchase but I got it for $70.

The zooma scooter came right after that and I have a guy that wants to trade me a roketa 125cc pit bike for it.
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
I wasn't able to make it through the whole thread but I did get to see some awesome bikes and take in some good information.

The kids stealing your stuff really bothered me though. Taking from someone's collection of hardwork and dedication is inexcusable. Punk kids.

After taking a good look at the carb on my x2 I noticed that it's not in very good shape. Most of the screws are stripped and generally beat up. I thinking about a replacement and I would like your recommendation on what to replace it with? Would changing the style of carb have any advantages? Thanks in advance for any advice you can throw my way.
 
#30 ·
The stock 15mm WYK carb is the best carb to put on it...Theyre easy to tune and easy to modify if needed...

Its only $10 bux for a new one on ebay..........Theyre WYK192 15mm pumper carbs...

Put it this way and beleive it or not ....You can take a bone stock 43 or 49cc engine thats pushing between 1.6 and 1.9 hp and make those engines belt out 4- 4.5hp with a dremel and a few other hand tools and spend maybe $40 bux on a V-stack,,UNI airfilter ,,a rocket key,,some boost bottle supplies and some hp clutchsprings..
 
#24 ·
Yeah, you have to wade thru our BS, to get to the important stuff, but it is a must read if you want a fast bike, can't tell you how many times CAM2 and others have helped me.
The bolt mounted pattern is the same on pumper carbs, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm up to 28mm ??? You need the 15mm for your engine, they are $9 shipped on eBay. My favorite PB carb, cause it pumps fuel from the tank, never short of fuel, and so easy to adjust, lol.
 
#25 ·
Thank you for the info! I've been looking over the forum and I think I'm beginning to understand how to navigate. :) There's just so much useful information my brain goes in to overload trying to process it all. Thank you guys for taking the time to answer all my "new guy" questions and pointing me in the right direction.

Again, I think I'm figuring out the navigation part of the forum and I'll try to do some digging before I ask a question that's already been covered a million times. You guys definitely showed some love to the new guy and it's greatly appreciated.

You guys are awesome!
 
#26 ·
Try the site search box for info and if you right click CAM2 or anyones RED color name and click see all post & threads by member, with CAM2 there is enough for a book, lol, scrool thru articles till you find what your looking for. I have one of them hp 43cc twin engines in my stand seat scooter, I got from CAM2.
 
#31 · (Edited)
The twin engine bikes are actually fun...the mini harley was twin 43cc...I wanted to do the 43cc engines because they scream harder and dont have the compression reieif notch like the 49cc engines so they belt out just as much if not more power than a modded 49cc engine.........

Both engines were pushing 4-4.25hp each.....so 43cc doubled is 86cc's and it was roughly 8-8.5hp....

Just enough to to get it to to speeds between 52 and 56mph the way it was geared and get to that top speed in a very short time with crazy bursts of speed in the midrange area.............Had I put the 25tth rear sprocket on it the bike would of definately hit 65mph no problem............

I like doing twin engine projects...My craziest project was putting a GSXR600 motorcycle engine in a racing kart.................:tango_face_devil:

Its a 4909 version T-Maxx I installed a second engine in I call Madd Maxx........LOL
 
#32 ·
That bike was originally an X1..The tab thats bent out of the way is for securing the X1 trans in the front....They somehow crammed the X2 trans in there but im sure it dont line up too well with the rear wheel.......

What kind of rear sprocket and chain is on that bike?

Also that grey case engine didnt come stock on those either...The engines had an orange fan cover......Grey comes on Boreem products like cateyes and mini choppers.....
 
#33 ·
Again with the sideways pictures. I'll figure that out.

I'm not sure what sprocket and chain setup is currently on the bike but I did notice that it's not lining up very well after you pointed it out. I got it running decent and it just didn't have any power to take off. That is when I noticed the direct drive belt pulley in the front. Not exactly a cvt transmission like that.

What would you recommend I do for the transmission? Should I replace it with a x1 transmission or fix/replace the x2 transmission and figure out the rear wheel offset?

I've been doing some research on the rocket key , boost bottle, and clutch springs and definitely see them in my future. I have also been looking into some of the dremmel techniques as well. That might be a little farther in the future before I feel comfortable attempting any of that. Thanks for the feed.
 

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#35 · (Edited)
Its no problem......I taught my nephew how to port these engines at age 10.......Hes alot older now and hes a wiz at it........Hes like the engine guru of Arizona......LOL

My sister called me up one day flipping because he took their brand new weedeater apart and sooped it up with porting,,WT603 carb and a chamber pipe exhaust........Said my brother-in-law was scared to use it and couldnt even pullstart it and had to buy a new one...He was also planning on sooping up the lawnmower.....LOL

I also got yelled at because he liked to work on them in his bedroom.......

The chain thats on it is a TF-8mm...Thats the correct chain to come on the X2 but in the picture it seems the chain is not in line....

This is an X1 frame...



This is an X2 frame...........

 
#37 ·
LOL....Ive had motorcycles sitting on expensive bowling alley wood floors....People used to think I was nuts....LOL

These bikes are a step above remote controlled two stroke 1/5 scale vehicles....Theyre kind of too intricate to work on in a garage other than doing welding or portwork....

I converted my R/C hobbyroom into dual purpose with scooters n small pocketbikes...The midbikes,pitbikes,mx bikes and superbikes go in the basement........LOL

The garage is for the cars,,quads,,jetskis n the streetbikes.............It takes alot of toolboxes full of tools specialized to their craft in all these locations to make it all possible but alot more convenient than melding everything into a huge unorganized mess which is what I have in the warehouses and storage units,,sheds and small garages......everywhere.

Before my last accident I bought a 2003 Harley Davidson and two pressure washers that I put in a friends shed I bought from his neighbor and apparently forgot about buying.....two weeks ago he calls me up asking me if he can have his shed space back for the springtime......LOL

 
#38 ·
I may have to consider moving some things inside. Maybe just some of the small stuff. All my tools, welder, beer fridge, four motorcycles and still need space for my kids to ride their bikes in the winter. Good thing I have a crawl space for overstock.

Can some of the parts that I need for that cvt transmission be purchased individually or do I need to buy a whole new one? The cvt is what I'd like to go with and just offset the rear wheel accordingly. I'll have to relocate the mounts as well, I assume.
 
#39 ·
You need to move your rear wheel to the left a hair, axle spacers. I use .25 cent, .060" thick SS washers for spacing. 7/16" for 10mm axles and 1/2" for 12mm axles. To make it work you might have to make the left spacer shorter to make it go left. You motor mount might not be inline either, also you need to put a bolt in the lower forward trans to case mount.
On the CVT trans, clean all the parts, might try rust remover and wet/dry sandpaper, 100, 200 and 3 or 4 hundred grit. I would think about taking the whole CVT apart, clean it all up.
 
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