YSR tips and mod tricks.

here's what was posted on another YSR forum regarding the YSR.
if any of you YSR riders out there want to share your comments, please do so. I'm just starting out buying my first YSR and would like to know helpful hints on these little 2-strokers. thanks!

Congrats!

I have experienced all of the carb set-ups....stock, OEM carb w/stage II, 20mm and the 24mm flat slide.

Personally, I now prefer the stage II jet/needle kit, air pod mod kit for the air box and any of the after-market pipes for street use.

Don't get me wrong, nothing wrong with the 20mm for street use.

With "my" experience with the bigger carbs, they seem to load the cylinder up with fuel at low rpm's (idle) and the cyclinder doesn't seem to burn the fuel fast enough = plug foulage (some cases).

Tho' I have only experienced this with the 24mm.

Expect to bloop/wack the throttle often while sitting at a light otherwise you'll feel boggish/sluggish at the start......then again, two strokes aren't known to have good low end starts....just keep the rpms up when your start from a dead stop.

You'll love the power of the 20mm.......not that I've suffered much with the stage II kit http://4d5.net/boardimages/tongue.gif

You may want to consider changing your sprocket combo to 13/45 for more top speed.

If your YSR is bone stock & orignal, always run high octane pump gas and use good 2-stroke injection oil (Yamalube).....Red-line is ok too....just make sure it's oil injection (if applicable).
Whatever you do, don't run out of gas or forget to turn your pet-cok to the ON position when going for a ride = top end damage (worst case scenerio).
Moreover, don't forget to turn it to the OFF position when not being ridden.

If you plan to ride the twisties or any type of road coarse, I recommend to install the 2nd spring kit and stuff (2) skate board bushings (thick) in the rear shock for better/stiffer suspension.

Most of all Have lots of fun and expect to get a lot of looks when riding it

Most of the info is good, however I have never ridden mines on the road. It's been a track use only bike. I prefer to premix my gas because of the uncertainty of the oil pump. I know people who continue to run their oil pump and haven't had any problems and there are others who have had problems.

Recommendations: Pipe, carb, suspension (fork springs and rear shock), and to experiment with the gearing. Suspension is a must if you intend to do alot of cornering. The skate board bushings work but there are alternatives (some cheap and some expensive). It depends on your taste.

Take care and good luck.

Sounds like you quoted YSRCali



I've had both a race and street YSRs. If I was going to build bike, I'd go full "superbike" for both cases.

Get a Stage 5 Calimari pipe, 24mm flatslide carb (pre-mix 32:1 required with this carb), Boysen Reeds, and 13/40 gearing for top end speed.

I wouldn't worry about porting the cylinder or getting it bored to 60cc.
The Weisco pistons are junk. Stick to OEM Yamaha pistons in the 40 (stock), 40.25 (1st over) and 40.5 (2nd over). In other words stick to the 50cc and you will have a reliable race/street bike. When I take her to the track all I need to do is change the sprockets.

Good luck and have fun. If you have any Qs I would be happy to answer them.

Funny, he did! (LOL)

That particular thread/comment was in regards to a bone stock YSR and that the YSR was going to be ridden within an urban area........light to light.

Now, If your rides consist more of open road and/or twisties (less lights or stop & go)? I feel the bigger carbs (20mm & 24mm) would be and are an excellent choice. These carbs love to run at WOT and you'll absolutely love the performance you get from them.

These guys offer great advice ~thumbup~

Tho' I have a different opinion in regards to the Weisco Piston....sorry Eddie

Yes, I agree, if your cylinder is Yami spec'd, then I HIGHLY suggest to stay with the Yami piston = tighter cylinder bore tolerences.

The Weisco bore tolerances are sloppy (loose).

fwiw, my race YSR is Yami spec'd, but my street/track YSR has a Weisco 2nd bore/piston. I have had no problems with it and I am very pleased with the performance I receive while tracking/riding it As stated, it comes down to personal preference and/or experiences.

Another thing I didn't mention is that if you're on a long ride at WOT and/or going down hill, do your motor a favor and pull the clutch in and bloop/wack the throttle several times (doing so helps lubricate the cylinder) or pull over and give yourself and the motor a break. After all, the motor runs it's hardest/leanest at WOT.

Here's a tip for ya if your YSR is premix only:
Carry a small bottle of Yamalube (or Red-line) good for 1 gallon of gas. I carry such a bottle just in case....never had to use it

If you have to use it, just fill up a gallon of high octane pump gas, pour in the Yamalube and shake your YSR violently to agitate/mix the fuel & oil within the tank.

DO NOT JUST ADD THE OIL AND RIDE AWAY, IT MUST BE MIXED (as much as possible)

I typically check the tank for gas prior to riding......I have a 2 gallon gas can already premixed and trust me, doing this is not that big of a deal.

Eddie and I have been on many rides together and at most we've burned a gallon of gas = approx 50 miles each ride

btw, we both premix.

Yes, feel free to ask questions. If we do not have an answer for you, TCR WILL and are always helpful getting you back on the road.

Great advice from all of you. I thank you very much.

Well, she's coming in today. if anyone can help me post piks, I'd like to show her off on her first day in the new home.

I tell ya, I have no clue what all this "Yami spec" stuff means but I'm sure gonna try to take it all in. exciting stuff this 50cc maintenance.

What do you guys suggest about tire changings? I've ordered a new set of TCR tires since the bike is coming with the stock ones (they are bald in the middle obviously). I think YSRcali said just take it to your local moto dealer and be done with it. they'll change it, balance it and make sure it's on right. I heard tires are a pain in the rear to change.

Again gents..........thanks so much for all the great advice I've received here.

Well I can't really help you with all the technical YSR questions, but I can help you with this... You can use this site to host your pictures http://www.imageshack.us/ , but on PBP before you click submit reply or submit post you can scroll down a little and click on "manage attachments" and use that to upload you pictures to your post, but for most other forums http://www.imageshack.us/ is the website to use.

thanks sir.
I'll look into it.

If you will be looking to do a rear disc brake swap check out these itmes on Ebay, not sure if it's a good deal or not but I've seen average price for both front and rear TZM50 wheels at $450, but any way check out these items you might be interested.....

Item number: 4508450101

Item number: 4508446552

Item number: 4508445688

What's involved in a reare brake swap? do you mean turning the rear brake into a "disc" instead of the stock drum brake?
if so, how "involved" is that modificaiton?

details on the process if anyone's gottem.

So, you can't simply just modifiy the rear brake system of stock YSR and put on a disc brake? you have to actually have all 3 components, the swing arm, rear wheel AND the dirc brake itself?

Man, sounds complicated.

Yes, take it to a local MC shop to have it done.....you'll thank yourself for it and don't ask me how I know ~cry~

Fortunately I have a shop near by that charges $15 a wheel. No balancing required. However, there is a *** on the side wall of the tire that needs to be aligned with the valve stem (as close as possible). TCR can tell you what *** you should look for........btw, this is in reference to the Dunlop TT91's. Not sure about the IRC tires.....again, call TCR and they'll tell ya.

In regards to the Yami Spec's, we were talking about the I.D. (inner diameter) difference between the Yamaha & Weisco bore/piston size.

If you plan to beef up your braking system, I then suggest going with a steel braided line (front) and use Galfer or Ferado brake pads/shoes for your YSR.

I personally use Ferado (sp?).

The other rear braking system is not really necessary = bling factor.....imo

After all, 80% braking is done with the front, 20% rear.

I change all tires myself, it's really not that hard. Items needed: Bead breaker, tire irons, rim protectors, rubber mallet, and either soapy water or WD40.

Here's a quick run down:

1. Ensure all air is out of the tire and break bead (I use a C-clamp and two 2x4 blocks, five inches in length. Place on both sides of tireand clamp until bead breaks (if I'm in a hurry I stand on the tire, not reccommended), then work the rest of the tire off of the bead.

2. Place rim guards on section of wheel you're going to use tire irons on. Insert one iron then pry up, then insert the next and work your way around the wheel (just like a bike only harder). As you move, remember to move the guards or you'll scratch up your wheels.

3. Next, pry the tire off of the same side you just finished. I stick the iron in and pull towards me, then beat the old tire off with the mallet. Tire removed in less than 5 minutes. The first time took me almost 30 min for the first tire, the second took ten and I haven't looked back since.

4. Now that the tires off, make sure you clean the wheel inside and around the lip (most shops only wipe the area with a clean towel). There are different cleaners you can purchase, I use soapy water.

5. Before you put the tire on, here's where the very soapy water/WD40 comes into play (I taught my friends and they use liquid soap only, it works) wipe/spray rim and tire on the side you're going to put the tire on. I push the first side straight on, then wipe/spray the rim and tire again, and push it on. VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you install the wheel with the rotation arrow pointing in the right direction.

6. Line the arrow up with the valve then, air the tire up. IMPORTANT: Make sure the compressed air is over 10psi, if not you're in for a long day.

7. On to the next tire.

I went to have my tires changed at the shop that services my VFR400, the owner said that he wouldn't do it because it was too easy and he showed me how.

The rear end swap is like Cali said bling factor, I would only do it for one reason, to shave weight off the bike. The TZM wheels weigh substantially less and look a whole lot better.

If you have any problems/questions let me know and I'll be more than willing to help.

O! one other thing.......fyi, it is recommended when doing a tire change that you change the valve stem as well.

and Clane, on the point of the "arrow" for directional orientation of the tire......very important indeed.

fwiw, I also used soap/water upon removing the tire(s) as well as attempting to mounting the new

Cali, I never used soap/water to remove the tire, only to put it on. Does it help?

yeah, it helps lubricate the rubber to slide off the rim as it does when mounting a new tire.