your project sounds pretty interesting. I did a simaliar swap but with a Cagliari frame and the bike runs great! the electric components were off a Razor Pr 200 electric pocketbike (ones you see at Walmart) and while it may not have incredible speed gains over the PR200, it certainly handles alot better. the disc brakes are a major improvement, and i think its got more comfortable ergonomics, especially since i race these things in my series. sounds cool tho keep us posted with all ur latest updates!
hey guys i need help again. this chain is driving me nuts!!!!!!!!!
i have tried and ordered 2 different master links and they have all been wrong. in the pictures i have provided that is the bike i have and all of the standard parts besides my electric mods. i know the chain fits all of the sprockets i have on the bike including the motor. i need to know exactly what master links i need so i can get the chains right and finally start riding my bike. so can some one please tell me and show me the exact links i need for my chain and any helpful hints to shorten the one chain. (and yes before someone says anything i have changed the AC breaker switch to a DC one i just don't have a picture.)
(will post pictures later because of website upload issues. but i believe it is a catseye style bike i posted some pictures in earlier posts.)
Last edited by vegetax007 : 06-02-2007 at 05:25 PM.
what size chain you using????? #25 or 8mm what exactly is happening, need more feedback... and if it's #25 is it a heavy duty one if so you will need a heavy duty master link, not a standard master link...
yea this goofy thing wont let me upload the pictures i have here but i managed to get them into my pictures under my profile. http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/mini...mageuser=21529
if you see the picture called my chain it shows the one i got. i ordered a chain from TNC scooters and they should have been a #25 chain but it was the same as a 8mm chain i ordered from them like a month ago so i have a feeling they sent me the wrong ones. i just need to make sure of exactly what i need.
ok i think i see what's going on... that double sprocket(that one that sits in between the motor and the rear wheel).. from the motor to the double uses #25 chain and then from the middle to the rear uses an 8mm chain yes????
well from your pic i see that both of those chains are 8mm so just call tncscooter and explain they sent you the wrong size chain or just tell me how much chain you need and i'll send you it with the master link.. up to you... now that chain you have only fits on one side of the double sprocket and too big for the other side of it yes no ... get back to me
ononon those chains are the same size (not in length) and fit from the back sprocket to the middle diff. and from the diff to the motor all fit the same size. i have tested and fitted them. i am almost debating to email the TNC scooter guys and send them that pic and one with a messuring tape in it so they could send the right master link. because the one chain only needs the link. while the other smaller chain needs to be cut down to the right size. and i can do that myself if i have the second master link. so tell me what you think.
so you just need to shorten the chain going from the motor to the middle sprocket.... then just order a master link for it and shorten it to the size you need... (8mm master link) and you should be set....
Hey guys some good news I finally got the bike running. Last night I took a short test run. I have some fixes and mods to do. The big one is this motor has so much torque it bent my galvanized steel CNC milled motor about 1/4 an inch up in the front. So I have devised a way to bend it back and hold it down better so it doesn't move. Here is where a problem I was having was. I would get a little bit down the road and the DC 30 AMP breaker I have would trip. This would also include hitting more than 1/4 throttle. I am not sure if it is because I wired in the switch wrong or that it is not enough for my controller. My controller is http://www.evparts.com/shopping/prod...roduct_id=4106
I currently have the switch wired from the ground of the controller to the negative of the batteries. So do you guys have any ideas on how to fix the problems with it?
Thanks for all the help you guys have given so far.
relocate your breaker between the batteries so place it after the first set of batteries and that should take care of the tripping prob.... if not you will need a higher amp breaker(50amp) since your using such a small rear spocket it's pulling alot of amps...
and your motor mount you may won't to use something alot stronger then galvanized... are we going to see a vid of you ride soon
well as for the video once it get the bike running right ill get one of my friends cameras and then post it. Anyway I did like you said and the switch I have is wired after the 2nd battery but before the 3rd. the switch is no longer tripping and doing its job. But the main problem is still there. I can put the bike up and turn it on and run the motor. The wheel and motor go to full throttle. The problem is when I the bike am under load. I can hold down the rear brake and start to give it some throttle and at about 1/4 power it just flat out stops. It is like I cut power to it. It does the same thing when I am on it. at first it had some power and go going a little bit but then once I hit the right spot above 1/4 power it would cut out. If I let of for a couple of seconds and gradually give power it would go again. But it would then cut out sooner than before. It is a gradual degrade when I try and put on more power. If I turn it off and the switch of and wait a minute. When I click them back on it is like when I first started. I get a little farther in the power about 1/4th and then off. So I am quite confused on what would be causing this. I don’t know if I somehow wired something wrong. Or if it is because I have yet to do a charge on the batteries (running off the charge they were shipped with). Or if something else is bad.
ok, then you need a higher gear ratio... if your not over volting it(which i don't see you doing in your pic) you need to get a bigger rear sprocket... maybe in the 60 tooth or higher... and you could adjust your timing so it won't pull so many amps..and maybe another thing you can do just to trouble shoot... test run your bike without the breaker and see if it cuts out on you... if it don't then your controller may be having a problem.... but i'm leaning toward it's your gear ratio, it's too low.....
Well I checked the switch and that is not the problem. It still does the motor cutting out while I am doing the brake torquing. I went through and check out my other wiring and everything looks okay but I started to look at how I wired the + motor and big red (controller) to the last + stud. The instructions online for the controller says that the "large red = battery positive and motor positive". I thought the way I wired it is correct but I thought I would ask if that sounds right.
i also sent an email to the place i bought the controller for their ideas if it is the controller or not.
Last edited by vegetax007 : 06-13-2007 at 12:10 AM.
okay guys i got a hold of an older crappy camera and shot a video of the problem i am having. i know it is not the best but i will be getting a hold of a better one later. so if anyone has any ideas why my motor is doing the cutting out bit as shown please let me know. as well as any ideas of how to fix it. and yes i know the chain is loose i just haven't adjusted yet.
okay guys i got a hold of an older crappy camera and shot a video of the problem i am having. i know it is not the best but i will be getting a hold of a better one later. so if anyone has any ideas why my motor is doing the cutting out bit as shown please let me know. as well as any ideas of how to fix it. and yes i know the chain is loose i just haven't adjusted yet.
It sounds to me like your controller is going into "temporary shutdown" state, under minimal load conditions. I'm thinking you may have a bad controller. Or, like Armando said, your gear ratio is so low, your bike draws too many amps, thus causing the controller to over heat, and shut off to reset itself. -miker71
my next question is if anyone has any good places to get the gear (certain product and location) and also a new controller for the bike something to give my 36 volt, 1000 watt motor some good kick i am shooting for about 30MPH. i am so close to finally getting the bike running then i could do all of my paint work.
my next question is if anyone has any good places to get the gear (certain product and location) and also a new controller for the bike something to give my 36 volt, 1000 watt motor some good kick i am shooting for about 30MPH. i am so close to finally getting the bike running then i could do all of my paint work.
A good place to get sprockets is from the surplus center. Now are using a 36v 1000w Unite motor? If so, you can buy 3/8 bore 25p sprockets from them: http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...25p%20sprocket
They come with 2 set screws, to easily fix to your motor shaft. Now, the Unite motor shaft is ~11.8mm. So, you will need to buy a 15/64 drill bit{11.9mm} (*Home Depot comes to mind), and drill out your 3/8 bore sprockets to 11.9mm. When you are done, your sprocket should fit perfectly to you motor shaft! If you are looking for 30mph, I would pickup 14,16,& 18 tooth sprockets to start with.
On what 36v controller you should buy, I'll leave that question to Armando. Or you probably could just call Chris at TNC, for a good recommendation
- miker71
... get back to me
good one, LoL
