hey guys,
so i got a problem with my battery, i got this bike about a week ago, and have been fixing it up ever since ( lots of work to be done still ) but now i ran into one that i cant solve without help, the battery.
the bike wont start, and i figured there was no spark, and there wasnt. so i took out the battery and took it to a bike shop, the guy said all the acid inside it was dried out, but when we tried to find specs, we couldnt, IT ALL IN CHINESE!
so does anybody know what voltage/amperage the battery on an X12 110cc has?
12 volts and 6 amps...the chinese batteries dont have wet acid,,they have gel acid...The best replacement would be a powersports battery from Pepboys thats wet acid filled and maintainance free..Get a Battery tender brand trickle charger and attach the charging harness direct to the battery.....
You dont need the battery to get spark.Its used to power the lights and electric starter...the magneto/stator generates the power to power up the CDI to power the coil to fire the engine..............Peace
also, there is a little black box behind the battery, with 2 positive ( + ) connectors to it, and then an output which goes into the distributor into the sparkwire, what is that? it seems to have no charge.
The stator is located behind the magneto cover...If you have a digital multimeter you can test it......details below in pics..you dont have to remove it from the engine to test it...you just have to disconnect the 4 wire molex plug coming from the magneto cover area...
The coil can be tested at your local dirtbike dealership...If both turn out good then its possible you have either a bad CDI , bad wiring or grounded killswitch...
The little black box description is kind of vague...If you could post a picture that would be appreciated...theres 3 little black boxes,technically 4 on your bike,,,theres the CDI box[1],regulator/rectifier[2],blinker ballast[3] and the starter solenoid[4]...
The stator has 1 power leg to the charging system[regulator/rectifier] and it also connects 1 power leg to the ignition system.....
Theres 5 wires that come from the magneto/stator....3 are used to run the bike...the red/black stripe , blue/white stripe and solid green....the red with black stripe and blue with white stripe goes to the CDI box...
The CDI box has a 6 wire connector with 5 wires being used...2 come from the stator[input wires],1 goes to the coil power tab connector as an output wire[black with yellow stripe wire], 1 is the ground wire[solid green] and 1 is the killswitch activation when grounded [black wire with white stripe]
The coil body must be grounded to the frame good..there should also be a ground wire from the harness connected to the coil body mount screw to aid grounding and there should also be a dedicated ground wire from the battery negative direct to the engine block and frame....If you have no battery the ground wire should link the engine case and coil body together...................................Peace
They make the same 110cc engines without electric start options and put them on pitbikes.....How do you suppose those engines start up?They dont have a battery...neither do lawnmowers and weedeaters yet they start up too.....
The magneto is a magnet and as the magnet passes over the stator coils they produce power...
Some engines like full automatics and 110cc semi-auto engines need an electric starter to get the engine rotating to get the magneto to pass over the coils to produce the power to run the engine...Others have a kickstarter and some have both....
The stator has two power legs....An ignition power leg and a charging power leg...Both are totally seperate from each other...the stator is 200 watts..the ignition side produces 150 watts and the charging side produces 50 watts....
the stator powers the CDI box and the CDI box powers the coil.....The coil sparks the sparkplug to fire the engine..
An engine can totally run without any of the charging system components hooked up...
To do the test you dont need to kickstart the bike.The test is an ohms test..just set the meter to the appropriate setting,touch the probes at the appropriate places after disconnecting the 4 pin molex plug and read the meter screen....
If youre checking for spark you need to kickstart it and the coil can be tested at your local dirtbike dealership if you have any doubts to its effectiveness..If the coil and stator check out its either a wire problem or a bad CDI....Good Luck .........
Okayvso I tested the stator and it gave me 565 ohms, but now I think I see the problem,
the big magnet, that's supposed to be rotationg over the stator, when I kick start the bike, it never rotates, no matter what gear it's in,
565 ohms is too high of a variable.15 ohms too high to be exact...The stator is no good..,the values shouldnt exceed +/-50 ohms over 500 ohms
Try adjusting your clutch...........The clutch pack cranks the engine when the clutch is engaged and the kickstarter is kicked...If youre pulling the clutch handle to start it ;-dont;- and if its a semi-auto 4 speed you need to just adjust the clutchpack or see if the gearshifter is jambed where it activates the semi-auto clutch rod...If you cant get it to grab it might be time for a new clutchpack.......If your bike is semi-auto 4 speed with kickstart its most likely 50-70cc. 110cc doesnt have a kickstarter on midbikes unless its added afterwards..Another thinbg you can do is crank it with the e-starter........Peace
Yes it is its the slotted screw with nut combo...loosen the nut and then loosen the screw and try kicking it.....If the engine wont crankover when all the adjustment slack is removed then you have a bad clutchpack...
okay got it, the engine cranks over when i turn the screw either direction, but when i kick it, only the chain rolls over, so that would mean a bad clutch correct?
Youre saying that the engine is rotating when you turn the adjustment screw?....If so you do have a bad clutch pack.Most likely the roller bearing on the outside of the pack...To inspect the damage you drain the oil and remove the kickstarter and rightside casecover....To get the screws out of the clutchpack you should heat them up with a plumbers torch before using an impact driver to loosen them.A screwdriver wont do the job unless you have some weight and a gorilla grip to put behind the tool..If you dont have an impact driver you can rent one from your local autoparts store that rents tools...
The help is no problem...thats what these forums were made for..also ;-"Youre Welcome"....Peace
okay, could this have anything to do with a small spring not being in place? cause when i opened the rightcase cover the first time it popped out and i didnt know where to put it, it looks like this:
okay so i managed to engage the clutchpack, with the rightcase cover ever so slightly loose ( if i tighten it up more the clutch wont engage and it will spin freely, without the magnet) its just a matter of tightening it perfectly to the point where i can completely close the case and still have contact, the screws are about 1-2 rotations off. so now i managed to have a spark, a pretty solid one id say, i held it about 1/2 inch from the engine and it still sparked.
Now either hit it with ether or stick gas straight direct to the cylinder and see if it will start up or pop...If it does you will probably need to do a carb cleaning too.....while youre in there you should do the float restrictor tab removal mod too.
When you say it sparked at 1/2" gap;-...did the spark jump the 1/2" gap from the plug tip directly to the case or did you just see a blue spark jump between the electrode and the ground strap?....
it jumped from the tip to the engine ( that i used for grounding ) and sometimes also between both electrodes, what do you mean by "hit it with ether?"
