so i bought this X22 on craigslist for 150, the kid said it was starting up than shutting off, so i thought maybe the float was sinking, or it needs to be cleaned or the A/F is not tuned right.
once i get it home i turn the key, pull the brake and hit the starter and the solenoid is just sitting there clicking away (great) so i found out the battery is 100% shot, so a ordered a new battery, and picked up a new solenoid for the hell of it guessing the old one was junk, then i was taking a look at the coil and idk it is the stock X22 coil or one pulled from a 2 stroke, because it has the slits for where the magneto hits it to give spark (i also think its a 2 stroke magneto because they spliced the wires..) as it turns out im ordering a new coil, reg, and battery. and have already bought a new solenoid.
so tomorrow im going to check the carb to see if the float it a 10 degrees and if it running to rich or lean, also clean it.
also running to auto zone to pick up a new spark plug.
it seems like it just doesn't want to let the fuel out of the carb, so i put some fuel in the head through the spark plug hole hit the starter and it fired up for about few seconds.
also i needs some paint opinions i was thinking black frame with chameleon paint.
Thanks for your guys help, i know CAM will be in here (i hope)
EDIT:
also the starter is getting very hot after a few cranks, is that normal?
Last edited by mustanglov3r : 10-05-2009 at 10:45 PM.
The starter shouldnt be cranked for more than 5-8 seconds and more that 5 concesutive cranks before it bshould be left to cool for atleast 10-15 minutes before retrying...When the bike is properly tuned it should start at the tap of a finger within 3 seconds...all my bikes start-up firts kick or with just a tap of the start button....
The only thing you could do is totally remove the carb and totally disassemble it,clean out all the small crossflow holes in the mainjet holder tube plus pilot jet,,remove the a/f mixture screw,totally douche the carb body out soaking it in carb cleaner.......
While you have the carb open theres a square casting tab on the bottom of the floatbowl that needs to be removed with a dremel of similar grining device...Thats a float restrictor that causes alot of start-up and performance problems............Peace
The starter shouldnt be cranked for more than 5-8 seconds and more that 5 concesutive cranks before it bshould be left to cool for atleast 10-15 minutes before retrying...When the bike is properly tuned it should start at the tap of a finger within 3 seconds...all my bikes start-up firts kick or with just a tap of the start button....
The only thing you could do is totally remove the carb and totally disassemble it,clean out all the small crossflow holes in the mainjet holder tube plus pilot jet,,remove the a/f mixture screw,totally douche the carb body out soaking it in carb cleaner.......
While you have the carb open theres a square casting tab on the bottom of the floatbowl that needs to be removed with a dremel of similar grining device...Thats a float restrictor that causes alot of start-up and performance problems............Peace
thanks man,
I bought two cans of carb cleaner today and some PB blaster.
can anyone help me find out about this coil im just curious, im going to post a picture in a minute, in sure its a 2 stroke coil.
Pics:
(they tried to paint over the rusted chrome... i got the paint off with goo off XTREME)
wow, i cant really say nothing, mine was like that just to ride the bike, and then i cleaned up by snippin sum of the electronic wiring, and now i sumwhat clean for the stock wiring, imma remake another wiring harnest
Is that foil tape I see on the exhaust pipe? If so its gonna burn off something aweful get smokey,gooey and turn brown,gacking up the pipe big time....The coil is a 4 stroke coil but I cannot tell from the pics if they are wired in right...The black with yellow stripe is the coil positive power wire....Crimp terminals are pretty good but nothing beats soldering and shrink wrapping the connects......The cold fusion soldering iron works great for those sort of projects...The cold fusion kit comes with a large solderer and a small one too and they operate off aa batteries...Youre also missing the plastic isolator between the carb and intake...That isolator keeps the carb from heating up vaporizing the gas in the floatbowl while it sits after riding leaving behind fuel residue that will eventually clog up the carb again...Make sure theres a gasket between the head and intake too
Monsta: making a race bike harness will take you 30 mins to an hour to make and install....Its very easy to do and will reduce a lil weight and clutter...You unwrap the harness and remove the CDI plug with as much wire as you can to reconnect to the red with black stripe and the blue with white stripe to the same color wires coming from the stator...the black with white stripe is gonna be your killswitch wire,black with yellow stripe your coil power wire,solid green is a frame ground that goes to the engine ground and the coil body.....
i cleaned the carb, set the float, and adjusted everything and there is still no fire. i have the battery hooked to a battery charger giving the starter the power (the battery is junk).
how should i have the idle screw set at, i have it halfway.
EDIT: its not foil its some kinda different heat wrap. i plan to get a d-section made for the bike.
big EDIT:
i just got 10 seconds of life outta her! be back soon more adjustments being made.
Last edited by mustanglov3r : 10-06-2009 at 01:42 PM.
Bogging down could be from being underjetted or a bad sparkplug possibly the sparkwire.Get a new NGK C7HSA plug and stick it in..Get rid of the crappy chinese plug..Pull the sparkplug and see what color it is and get back to the post....The c-clip only controlls the off idle stumble[flat spot] you get when you go from idle to open throttle if there happens to be any..
When you did the carb did you remove the float restrictor from the floatbowl bottom and did you set the float to a 10 degree angle?Did you swap the cheesy 3/16" fuelline and fuelfilter for 1/4"?All 3 of these things help out alot in getting a properly running bike.......Peace
Bogging down could be from being underjetted or a bad sparkplug possibly the sparkwire.Get a new NGK C7HSA plug and stick it in..Get rid of the crappy chinese plug..Pull the sparkplug and see what color it is and get back to the post....The c-clip only controlls the off idle stumble[flat spot] you get when you go from idle to open throttle if there happens to be any..
When you did the carb did you remove the float restrictor from the floatbowl bottom and did you set the float to a 10 degree angle?Did you swap the cheesy 3/16" fuelline and fuelfilter for 1/4"?All 3 of these things help out alot in getting a properly running bike.......Peace
i was messing with it today and i seemed to be the A/F messing with the bogging down at full throttle, i changed out the carb to a different one with a on/off for fuel and it has a preset float witch seemed good, hope to getting the fuel filter tomorrow also running 1/4". and the pike already had a NGK plug haha.
well i just cleaned the plug before this and it was brown (but i only ran it for a few) so it could have ran to lean before.
but i seems to be idling just fine now, and running great.
ALSO
my forks seem very loose whenever i hit a bump they wiggle.
and the nut and bolt are on TIGHT.
Try tightening the fork clamp slack in the neck area between the clamps.....First you have to loosen the lower clamp bolts that bind the forks then tighten the center neck bolt and retighten the lower fork clamp bolts.....................Peace
when i was taking apart the carb there was no clip for the needle (not the c-clip, the clip to keep the needle in pace) couldnt i just make a new clip from a paper clip?
I would use a small flat washer with a center hole small enough to keep the needle with c-clip locked down thats slotted enough on the side to clear the throttle cable...The slider spring will hold it down..
