x7 built pbu problems

i have a x7 and bought the pbu motor for it 15:1 compression i think. so i have the stock x7 motor and on the pbu one the crank case bolts broke so i swapped the pull start clutch and cylnder head all that stuff even the piston on parts i didnt were the crank case the part its connected to the flywheel i couldnt use the engine coil and the thing the piston is connected to sorry dont know name. so i try to start it and it starts for less then half a second then i pull the plug out and there is no gap im running a NGK BPM7A plug any ideas on what size i should be using?. Also i found out the engine coil was arcing i could see sparks coming off it on the right bolt. Any way to fix that or do i need a new coil? hope you guys can help thanks

You took the PBU cylinder and head,piston off the PBU motor and put it on the stock X-7 bottom end.You didn't use the crank and the coil was different from the PBU motor right. Did you run the BPM7A plug before in the PBU motor or did you just get? If that plug has the same 3/8" length of threads it should be ok. Does that plug have the compression washer on it? I use the BM6A or BM7A NGK plugs in mine. The coil is arching at the coil or sparkplug boot? If it's at the coil check the 2 small wires and make sure they are not touching each other or any metal. If it's the boot it may have a crack in it you can unscrew it from the coil you couldn't use and change them out with each other. How did you do your killswitch? Or do you still have your eletric start?

You took the PBU cylinder and head,piston off the PBU motor and put it on the stock X-7 bottom end.You didn't use the crank and the coil was different from the PBU motor right. Did you run the BPM7A plug before in the PBU motor or did you just get? If that plug has the same 3/8" length of threads it should be ok. Does that plug have the compression washer on it? I use the BM6A or BM7A NGK plugs in mine. The coil is arching at the coil or sparkplug boot? If it's at the coil check the 2 small wires and make sure they are not touching each other or any metal. If it's the boot it may have a crack in it you can unscrew it from the coil you couldn't use and change them out with each other. How did you do your killswitch? Or do you still have your eletric start?

yup yup i ran it before it started fine. by the bolt where the coil is screwed on to there are sparks not any more i fliped the coil around and no more sparks does the coil have to be on a specific way? how can i check if the plug is fouled.no killswitch no electric start

I'm pretty sure the coil will only go 1 way. But if you turned it around and the sparks stopped it should be ok now. Turn the flywheel so the magnet is at the bottom of the flywheel than loosen the bolts and put a playing card or bisiness card under the coil and than tight the bolts. How are you going to turn the motor off if you have no killswitch? That BPM7A plug you are using should be fine to use on your bike I looked it up. When the plug is fouled it's just real dirty and oily. Now you said that the piston is hitting the plug right? Did you put the copper ring under the dome?

any way i put the coil the plug sparks. i did put the copper ring under the dome im sure its hitting because it would seize any be really hard to pull now i added an extra washer its a easier but wont turn over at all the plug sparks i tried 2 plugs the bike just sounds flooding ive taken all the gas out of the carb and waited 8 hours it doesnt wana start anymore ill try the card trick thanks. and i choke it till it dies cover the af

bike sounds like its back firing and after i stop pulling smoke continues to come out of the exhaust

If the coil was rubbing on the flywheel it would make it pull hard also. It will pull harder than stock anyway because of the higher compression on the PBU head kit. Did you use a base gasket under the cylinder? What carb are running with the kit? The back firing sound is just the motor firing over and the smoke is just from that. You may just need to adjust the carb or there is a compression leak. When you put the head and dome on the cylinder tell me how you went about tighten up the bolts?

i tightened the bolts in a X starting top left and the gasket was bad which is prob the issue i changed gaskets and im running the stock x7 carb i took off my WT i thought the carb was the problem what are the tuning specs? if i remember isnt it 1 1/2 for top and 3 1/2 for the needle on the side of the stock x7 and for the WT 1 1/2 out for both high and low? the plug hit because when i took it out there would be no gap and there was a lot of carbonation on it im using a different plug now hopefully it is not fouled ill let you guys know if it starts up

Did you tighten them a 1/4 turn at atime or tighten 1 than tighten another bolt and so on? The starting point for the stock carb is 2 1/4, 2 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw than tune from there The screw on the top I never had much luck tuning that screw cause on my X-7 I would always end up touching the exhaust pipe and would give up. But I know that it's tuneable. Is your head kit a reed conversion also or just a head kit? I don't remember. The WT carb the L screw is set at 1 1/4 turns out and the H is set at 2 turns out than they both need tuned from there. If the piston keeps hit the sparkplug add just add a base gasket. But make sure it's not hitting before you start the motor. Plus you should really check your squish also before it is started just tobe safe.

whats squish and how is it checked i just added another washer to the plug and i got it started today after i replaced the gasket it was a compression leak but i got it running today my clutch would disengadge so i took off the trans and started it made it worse my HP spring is all messed up i have to get a new one but im just going to buy the aluminum clutch no HP spring also my bell is uneven it should i buy another one? the outter part is more rough and farther in then the rest. thanks for you help btw i really appreciate im learning a lot from this little bugger

The squish is the space between the dome and the piston at (TDC). When the piston is at the top of the stroke. But if you have the motor back in the bike you can check that next time you have it out since it's not hitting anymore. With the clutch engaging when you start it up the idle is to high so turn it down. Or it could still have a airleak if the idle doesn't change when you turn the idle down. Plus it wouldn't hurt to spray some carb cleaner around the intake area and around the dome just to make sure it's sealed good. Also retighten the cylinder bolts after you have run it some. Just make sure you look around the dome for while looking for signs that it is leaking after that. I would get another clutch drum if it's that bad.

started great and ran as long as i was giving it some gas with the stock carb poped the WT on and tried starting it sounds like it wants to start but dies i think its flooded? it will start for less then a second a couple small revs then die

i got it started but it would only run at 3/4 throttle and if i gave it less it wanted to die tunning my only problem now?

Is that motor with a reed conversion or just a head kit?

reed ok now it wont start anymore same problem it wants to start but doesnt i have video of the sparks by the engine coil VIDEO_009.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

also when i move my bike back and forth its a little hard seems like the transmission is messed up ill get video of that tomorrow and pics of my bell and clutch bike is very slow i am 120 pound and it takes about 10 seconds to get to 20 mph with me running off the line because it has no torque im going to order a new clutch soon after i figure out if i need a new coil or not

The coil looks like it has a good blue spark to me. I think you need to take the head off the cylinder again. It sounds like it's still got a compression leak. It's pretty easy to put the dome on crooked hell I still do it if I get in to big of a hurry. Put some RTV copper sealant around the cylinder where the dome slips on not where the copper ring sits but around the outside part of the cylinder so you can see it squish out after the dome is in place than put the head on. Do it like this put in all 4 bolts but only screw each bolt down until they just touch the head than in a X pattern turn each a 1/4 turn at a time until they are all tight. It needs to go on straight. Than after you ride it retighten all 4 bolts and keep checking them until they seem tobe staying tight. I alway had problems with my sparkplug coming loose on my Headstrong kit until I started using some sparkplug thread locker on the plug.

my coil is supposed to spark? it seems like it bounces off the bolt on the left i thought if the coiled sparked it meant the coil was arcing mind you my plug was in the cylnder and the plug was in along with the cap on top of it

O ok that video is really dark I thought you was just showing your test for spark sorry. There must be a crack in the sparkplug boot. Take and unscrew the sparkplug boot off your other coils sparkplug wire and replace it onto that sparkplug wire that's in your bike. Have you tryed a different plug maybe there's a crack in that sparkplugs isolator?

yea i have 2 engine coils one is brand new the the bolts distance is smaller it was for the pbu crankcase the one im using says 2004 on it its years old original coil came with the bike. ill buy a cheap campion plug today and see if it starts if not then i think its the boot. anyway i can use the new coil by maybe fabricating an adapter?or is the distance between bolts really important?

I would just unscrew the wire & boot off of each coil and put the other boot & wire on your bikes coil. If your to far off on the placement of the coil you could mess up the timing.