I know this has been answered before the site went down but I'm trying to find out what exactly is needed to fit the 6.5" wheels on a 2.5. I know the back will bolt up without modifications but what about the front? I took some measurements from a cag and it seems like the 2.5 forks will not work with the 6.5" wheels. Can the 2.5 forks be modified by shaving it down some to accomodate the 6.5" wheels or will the forks (assuming the triple clamps as well) need to be swapped out with cag or elite front end parts? TIA for any help.
Its not too big of a deal, I just finished one. Use Cag wheels, its easier. You will have to make a spacer for the caliper side of the front wheel, raise the front fender and if you use something other than the Chinese front tires like T-41s it will just barely clear the front lower fairing. The bike will ride like a new bike, very smooth and stable. I had to re-drill either a rear rotor or the sprocket since there was a slight difference. Dont try to hog out the old holes, just drill a new set. I did have to lift the rear fairing up as high as it would go and add one extra mounting fastener into the side of the chain guard to hold it up. This will stop the fairing from drooping and rubbing on the front tire. I added two additional chain links to push the rear wheel back a bit more to get clearance for the K&N air filter. Its a squeeze but it all fits. Good Luck
Its not too big of a deal, I just finished one. Use Cag wheels, its easier. You will have to make a spacer for the caliper side of the front wheel, raise the front fender and if you use something other than the Chinese front tires like T-41s it will just barely clear the front lower fairing. The bike will ride like a new bike, very smooth and stable. I had to re-drill either a rear rotor or the sprocket since there was a slight difference. Dont try to hog out the old holes, just drill a new set. I did have to lift the rear fairing up as high as it would go and add one extra mounting fastener into the side of the chain guard to hold it up. This will stop the fairing from drooping and rubbing on the front tire. I added two additional chain links to push the rear wheel back a bit more to get clearance for the K&N air filter. Its a squeeze but it all fits. Good Luck
Smith,
Would you happen to have any pictures of the conversion / final product?
Hey freddie, I saw the pic with your son on the blata with 6.5 tires..........was the rear wheel a direct fit for you, with the stock Cag sprocket and chain? What's funny, is that It fit for me the first time, then, just this past Saturday when i went to convert it to 6.5 tires again it did not fit. The chain was too long. So I had my Dad knock out 2 links out of the stock Cag chain and later today I'm going to see if it fits now. My Dad also made a new rear link that links to the brake and the frame. This is used to move the brake up or down the slot so I can give more or less room for air filter if i need too. The problem that I had with the 6.5 on the rear the first time was that it brought my tire and axel all the way to the back of the frame, making the wheel brarely hanging on. Thats why the new link may be used, to slide the brake up more. Sorry for jno pics, but I hope you know what I'm talking about.
Hey freddie, I saw the pic with your son on the blata with 6.5 tires..........was the rear wheel a direct fit for you, with the stock Cag sprocket and chain? What's funny, is that It fit for me the first time, then, just this past Saturday when i went to convert it to 6.5 tires again it did not fit. The chain was too long. So I had my Dad knock out 2 links out of the stock Cag chain and later today I'm going to see if it fits now. My Dad also made a new rear link that links to the brake and the frame. This is used to move the brake up or down the slot so I can give more or less room for air filter if i need too. The problem that I had with the 6.5 on the rear the first time was that it brought my tire and axel all the way to the back of the frame, making the wheel brarely hanging on. Thats why the new link may be used, to slide the brake up more. Sorry for jno pics, but I hope you know what I'm talking about.
The rear wheel is a direct bolt in. No modifications needed. We (I was the one who did the conversion for Tyler's 2.5) had to use an extended chain only cause we used a 68T sprocket instead of the 58T sprocket that came stock. Because of the increased wheel diameter I think too much acceleration would have been compromised using a 58T but then again Tyler doesn't weight much at all. With the 6.5 wheels, Freddie fit a 90 deg filter with no problems. The front wheel is an entirely different story though. View my gallery for more pics.
I must have done something wrong the second time, because the stock Cag chain with the stock Cag sprocket, the 68 th...all fit the first time, but it didn't fit the second time i tried to put it on........it seem like too much slack in the chain
How thick is the adapter that you made on the front rotor? I'll have my dad CNC that but i need to know the thickness first. thanks Wee
Hey, you're asking for trade secrets here, LOL! How is our ultra-mini going to remain competative if everyone does the conversion?
Anyway, all BS aside, Will is going to have to chime in on this one. I do know that he precision cut three custom spacers that are virtually unnoticable and seemingly integrate right into the wheel. I recall someone at the track being quite puzzled because he couldn't find the modification.
Will's an absolute expert and as I always say, I'm glad I'm on the receiving end of his meticulous talent.
Also did you use the Cag front end as in forks and triple clamps? TIA
Wee
The forks and triple clamps are Blata 2.5 OE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WEENEE
I must have done something wrong the second time, because the stock Cag chain with the stock Cag sprocket, the 68 th...all fit the first time, but it didn't fit the second time i tried to put it on........it seem like too much slack in the chain
Strangely enough, in the past, I've been able to change sprockets on the ultra-mini without modification to the chain, but ideally, you want the correct chain length to accomodate whatever gearing changes you've made.
This time, the chain length is indicative of the changes to the gearing ratio.
OK ....I jsut got done putting on the back 6.5 wheel again with the shorten chain link and it works fine now.....but the rear rotor seem to rub on the brake pads quite a bit, but unnoticable when sittin on the bike.....jsut when tryin to spin the whell on the stand........the big question now is the front end.......the left side, with the front brakes, will they accommodate the stock front rotor, or would you have to use a blata? Did you do any shaving to the front fairing?
How do i get the front fender off the front forks......Its not a screw....it looks like it was riveted onto the frame....say it aint soo.....how do you get it off witout F'ing the front fender up?....I'm almost done with the full conversion.
I guess it doesn't matter now since you got your chain situation worked out but with the 6.5 wheels and 68 sprocket, the 2.5 chain is way to short. A cag chain is still too long, HF chains are shorter than FF chains, and will need to be shortened as you know already.
Freddie is right, the spacer thing is a secret, lol. You must figure out the spacer thickness for yourself just as I had too. I figured it out by trial and error.
Ok, with the stock 2.5 front end, you must make a spacer between the rotor and the wheel as you saw in my pics. I forget and don't quote me on this but I believe I made the spacer 9mm thick. You will also have to make a spacer for the same side between the bearing and the fork so your spacer must have a hole in the center to accomodate the bearing-to-fork spacer. I don't remember the thickness of that spacer since I sized it up using 4 washers IIRC but I don't know how thick the washers were. For the right side of the fork I used only one washer but again I'm not sure how wide the washer actually is.
As for the front rotor, the easiest way is to use the cag rotor but make sure it is the one with countersunk holes. Some cags have front rotors that do not have countersunk holes like the rear rotors. You need to use countersink screws to clear the front fork, look at my pics again for reference. Remember to get longer ones since you are adding a spacer in between the rotor and wheel.
You can use the 2.5 front rotor but the mounting hole pattern is different from the cag wheels. I used the 2.5 rotors on Freddie's conversion but I had to enlarge up the hole pattern and recountersink the holes. This may not be easily done if you do not have countersink bits and a drill press.
Yes you must shave the front fairing even if you change the mounting position as others have. I shaved a good amount of the front fairing. The wheel will not fit through if you do not to mention it won't clear the tire anyway if using the stock mounting holes. Of course you will have to reposition the front fender higher as well. Drill out the rivets, drill new holes on the fork and rerivet the fender back on.
The easiest way to do the conversion is to just use a complete cag or blata elite front end if you don't want to mess with the modifications.
Drill out rivets...rerivet..hahahhahhaha..too much work......I'll just be the only one with a stock blata 2.5 in front with a Cag 6.5 in the back.
LOL, actually you will be the second. There already is a 2.5 out here that runs only the 6.5 wheel in the back. He couldn't figure out how to do the front either. But it runs in the juniour class, his son rides it. The front IMO is what makes the most difference. It will handle 10x better and will feel like a different bike.
You are correct Zero4...the front is what counts, but When you have it the way I got it, the front end it slanted, so it helps not pulling up the front end when going into a turn, therefore not lowsliding.......kinda feels like a B1 with the slant, but I'm able to ride it......I want to go to Rialto and race you guys hehe....But this week I have to order a brand new stock 2.5 front tire and I'll see able the B compound for the rear 6.5. Wee
If you're actively racing, the B Compound would last longer. On the flip side, the OE treaded tires are cheaper to replace. B's run about $50 and the treaded run about $25, not including the tube, which you don't necessarily have to replace when you change the tire. Keep in mind, the B Compound doesn't provide much traction.
oh yess...i have to get an inner tube for my rear, because when i ran last week, I ran on my worn down tire and it busted, popped, kapuwee........I do like the feel of the stock tires, because of the leveled height and better feel for the ground....but the 6.5 in the rear feels much more stable in the turns.
