GRC types: GP, RR, RSR, RX, etc.

I think that I am in the market for a GRC. It will be my first real pocket bike and I want to start racing. I was hoping someone could elaborate on the major differences of the various model types and maybe I could figure out what I am looking for. I know there is GP, RR, RSR, RX and probably a handfull of others. Also, is there a good web site somewhere that is about the GRC brand? BTW...I know I would like no less than 8.5hp and I would like to keep the bike in the 49cc class and although I don't know for sure, I think that the midi size will suit me better since I am not as flexible as I would like to be. I weigh 180 and I am 5'9" so any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Your best resource in the US for GRC pocketbikes is www.midsouthminimoto.com
The GRC manufacturer website is: www.grcmoto.com
Another great resource is www.minimotogarage.com

The GP is a midi sized, cast frame pocketbike. They are slightly longer and heavier than most comparable bikes.
The RSR is now out of production. It is midi sized and is a trellis frame.
The GP1 is the mini version of the RSR, also out of production.
The RR is the bike that took the place of the RSR. It is a midi and trellis frame but is a much stiffer chassis than it's ancestor.
The RX is a mini version of the RR.

Midi vs. Mini is a long discussed topic. What it comes down to is personal preference. I'm taller than you and I prefer minis. I think they handle better. Then again, I'm pretty flexible. Shorter people than I am don't fit too well on my bike.

You'll want to check out racing rules in the club you'll be calling home. Keeping it under 49cc doesn't mean much because all current pocketbikes are under 50cc and all European pocketbikes fall into definitive class structures. The advertised 8.5hp RR is considered a Super Production pocketbike according to traditional pocketbike racing organizations. If you want to get into the open classes you're looking at either an Open 40cc or an Open 50cc.

Just remember, the Super Production class is no joke. It's full of very fast, very experienced racers. Be careful on that monster you're considering. It's nothing like a Cag.

Thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to know. You really have me scared now. What if I spend $1500 and buy a bike that I can't race? The only thing in my area currently is the AMMRA series races that run through here 3 months during the summer. Here are their classes:

2005 AMMRA National Amateur Series


1. Pocketbike Modified Air Cooled Lightweight
2. Pocketbike Modified Air Cooled Heavyweight
3. Pocketbike Modified Water Cooled Lightweight
4. Pocketbike Modified Water Cooled Heavyweight
5. Pocketbike Modified Air Cooled Open
6. Pocketbike Modified Water Cooled Open
7. Pocketbike Modified Air/Water Cooled Open

AMMRA 2005 National Amateur Series - POCKETBIKE Chassis and Engine Specifications

PocketBike Modified Air Cooled
Engine Size : Maximum Displacement 49cc
Fuels : Gas / Methanol (3)
Reeds : Allowed
Rotary Valves : NOT ALLOWED
Water Cooling : NOT ALLOWED
Mounting : ONLY bolt on engine swaps are allowed (4,6)
Transmission : Single Gear (7)
Electric Conversions : NOT ALLOWED

PocketBike Modified Water Cooled
Engine Size : Maximum Displacement 49cc
Fuels : Gas / Methanol (3)
Reeds : Allowed
Rotary Valves : NOT ALLOWED
Water Cooling : ALLOWED ( *APPROVED COOLANT ONLY (2))
Mounting : ONLY bolt on engine swaps are allowed (4,6)
Transmission : Single Gear (7)
Electric Conversions : NOT ALLOWED

PocketBike Modified Water/Air Cooled Open
Engine Size : Maximum Displacement 49cc (1)
Fuels : Gas / Methanol (3)
Reeds : Allowed
Rotary Valves : NOT ALLOWED
Water Cooling : ALLOWED ( *APPROVED COOLANT ONLY (2))
Mounting : ONLY bolt on engine swaps are allowed (4,6)
Transmission : Single Gear (7)
Electric Conversions : Allowed (1)

Additional Information (addendum)

(1) Electric conversions allowed in air/water open with 48v limit and a 2000 AMP limit
(2) The only AMMRA Approved Coolant is "Redline WATER WETTER®".
Glycol, Ethylene or Propylene Glycol coolants are not allowed.
(3) Nitro Methane and Nitrous Oxide are NOT allowed.
(4) Frame modifications are only allowed to strengthen weak chassis points.
(5) Engines over 43cc's must be piston port design
(6) No engine adaptor plates or frame modifications allowed
(7) No Shifter Transmissions Allowed
(8) Currently approved rollers include - GOPED® Go-Quad, Tanaka® PaveRacer, Bladez® PowerKart

I think that there is also an endurance race so I was hoping to be qualified to race in all three with my new bike. Do you think I am mistaken? I also plan on racing within your organization when I am in Arizona (I used to live there and have family there). So it sounds like I will only ba able to compete with the uber serious riders huh? I still have time to back out of this deal and get the right bike. I am buying it so that I can race. If you think that I am getting a bike that squeezes me out of the most prominent race classes then please stop me now before I make a big mistake.

PB, I replied to your PM.

Well, I bought a used GRC GP. It seems to be in great condition and comes with a ton of extras. I am a little worried about the fact that the GRC GP has been discontinued because it may make it a lot harder to find parts (especially new fairings if I ever need them). I am also a little concerned because people tell me that the GP frame is so stiff. What the heck does that mean to me and will I get used to it or wish I had a different bike? The other bike I was considering was the B1 Origami but most people didn't think that handled that great either. Oh, well. I should have my bike in a week and then I'll get to decide for myself. If you have a GP, I would love to hear what you think of this particular model (both good and bad).

well good thing you didny get a b1 since they have such a weird sitting position and they sit so high up. But they say that if the frames are too stiff then it cant flex providing a suspension feel like the trellis frames. and the gp is a little too heavy

I wouldn't worry about the fairings themselves. Fiberglass is easy to repair. 4 years of racing and we have yet to replace any fairings. Windscreens on the other hand, those may be getting harder to find, except that now the Chinese are replicating the GP, so I would assume the chinese version would fit on the original.

In regards to the stiffness of the bike, you probably wouldn't even notice unless you also got to ride a comparable RSR, DM or ZPF. They ARE stiff and they are long, but I've seen them win races so they can't be terrible, can they?

The real B1 seems to be either a love-it or hate-it type of bike. I'm not a big fan but some people swear by them. Every bike rides differently, I actually envy people that don't have a lot of experience, they aren't burdened by comparisons to former rides! You'll be very happy with your bike, just enjoy it, don't over think everything!

Great info and advice Elo. Thanks for everything!