How do i ID this bike and help on Adjusting the clutch

I just got my first BMS from Vince at xtrememinimoto and am extremely pleased with how strong and stable this bike is. The head ID reads 316A with a which I'm guessing that it is one of the open class 40's 5-port w/bizeta. How do i verify the horsepower of because i believe that a few different versions?

When i got the bike the clutch springs were so much tighter and the bike need high RPMs to engage. When i checked the spring height it was around 24mm with the calipers. Just to test, I adjusted them to 25mm and noticed that the clutch egaged at much higher RPM. So, I set it down to 23mm and it engages a little quicker.

Since I've been used to the chinese cags, I'm not really sure how much give and take i will have to shorten the clutch springs to engage quicker.

Here's what i am looking for: turning corners, i am off the throttle and the difference between the idle and the engage point is so far that i feel that i could easy make the bike kick in too much power at that unstable point. Given that, I want the bike to be more even when pulling out of the corner. I was thinking of shortening the springs to maybe 22mm or even 21mm.

Leads to my question: will I be losing out on some significant performance (like top end) if lower the springs too much or is it my unexperience in riding this awesome bike? Whole different world!

Thanks for checking out this post.

if you tighten the springs the clutch will engage at a higher rpm = more violently since your getting into the area that you are on the pipe

I would loosen the clutch springs so that when your engaging your at the base or just a hair into the powerband. If your too low you will just burn the clutch untill it gets to the proper rpm. Use the calipers and make sure that they are even.

From what I was taught, it's best to have the clutch engage above 8000 RPMs probably closer to 9000. As Mitch said you want the clutch to engage when it's in it's powerband. If the clutch engages too soon, it will bog then as the powerband kicks in your good. This will kill you riding on the track.

When hitting turns, don't let off the throttle completely and let the clutch disengage otherwise you'll decrease the life of the clutch. You also won't have a smooth transistion exiting the turns as you know. You want the keep the RPMs up so the clucth is still engaged as your braking and come into the apex of turn. After you've hit the turn accelerate out. It's something to get used to but you'll catch on quick and eventually you'll do it out of reflex.

As for your engine question, I don't know what you mean by 40cc open Bi-Zeta. I don't think you have the Bi-Zeta engine. 316A is Polini 40cc 5-port water cooled. 5-ports are considered open class. Then again I been around cags for a while and don't everything about Euros, yet.

Have fun out there.

Thanks for the reply guys!

Yeah, i wasn't clear on which way to propertly turn the springs. After adjusting the clutch springs to 23mm, felt that it was probably better to check with some experience before i something that could lead to unwanted consequences. I guess the best way is to get a digital tach and adjust the springs to work above 8000 RPMs. Where can i get a good one locally? I mean, what kind of shop should i look for one at? Until I get one, any suggestions on the distance the spring should be?

Now as far as reflexes, i kinda figured it out yesterday that on my turns, i keep on the throttle right below the engage point and it worked out so thanks for the reinforcement. I just need to get a little more practice to develop the regular response.

Regarding the engine type, i wasnt refering to the engine as a biZeta engine, from www.minimotogarage.com, i Identifed that my engine was a Polini Series II 5-port w/c engine. I believe that Vince told me that it was a bizeta pipe. does that sound right? Anyhow, beyond that, i guess my question was more refering to how you tell how many hp's it is. Because if you look at the available models, there's like 4 or 5 - 40cc open class models. Just curious so I know what I'm talking about when I tell people.

Anyhow, I love this bike, exactly the reponse and feel that i was looking for. Not to down the Cags but after a few rides on this BMS, took a ride on one of my cags to adjust it and thought there was something wrong with the engine...haa haa...

I still love my Cags because for a little bit of money, they're a blast...

I'm not exactly sure what your bike or BMS are rated at but I believe 40cc open bikes are in the 12-14hp range. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Since it's and open bike, I'm sure it does have a bi-zeta pipe on it.

I know what you mean about the cags. After I rode my cag after I got the DM, it feels like my engine is toast or something, lol. Yeah I still love my cag too, it's an excellent beginner's bike. I just don't ride too often anymore.

I'm not sure where to look locally for a tach, I would think a kart shop might have em. Tiny Tachs are cheap and work but are not all that great. They respond too slow, 2.5 sec delay. I have on on my cag. I would just spend the money on a GPT tach and call it a day. They even have ones that will monitor the temp of your cooling system if you plan on mounting the GPT on the bike.

I finally got an awesome riding session today in a parking lot of a local elementary school. Man it was awesome but the BMS was a little to much for that track. You can't really open up the trottle but it gave me a chance to practice the turns and holding RPMs stable to give juice as it pulls out of the turn. I see what you guys mean though, after about 20 mins of swinging it into the turns, it just because instintive and you automatically ready yourself.

It was fun though to hop back on the cag and ride that little course because everyone else had Cags.

I think we (about 8 of us) got about 3 hours of riding and rest pretty fun times. Before we packed up i took my the BMS for a spin and something went wrong with it where it felt like the the throttle pulled wide open all by itself and would not back off. I had to hold down the kill switch to stop it. When i pulled started it, the same thing happened. Any ideas? I'm going to write this on a separate post to see if anyone else had this problem.

Cheers.

wheres pics of machine? engine,exhaust so we can help..

40cc open (5-port), BZM exhaust, as stated above.

I figured it out and posted it on another thread. Apparently, the throttle connection screw at the carb came loose and the rubber housing got stuck with the throttle wide open. I thought my engine was going to explode so i hit the kill switch. I took off the fairing and tank and found the problem later that night.

Thanks.