save the clutch

anyone got any ideas on how to preserve the life in a cag. clutch

well...
1. lose weight
2. dont ride it
3. ride less
4.drop the quad and get a bike
5.push off to start accelerating

yep you gotta switch to a cag chain and sprocket set up as the pocket quads chain and gearing are for a 5 year old. in order to do so you'll have to buy a new clutch housing with 6 tooth pinion then get a 78 tooth for the rear and use a spacer/big washer between the sprocket and sprocket mount to align the chain better. expect to order some 6003 zz bearings from skatebearing i think its called cuz you'll have to cut the bearing off with a dremel cutting wheel cuz its seized on. this is the bearing that holds the rear axle on the bike.

after this be very careful!!!! it turns into a complete dangerous monster! it goes from not being able to take off at all and having to push yourself just to bog out sounding like a snowblower to a freaking powerband hittin unstable machine! once you hit a certain speed the front end becomes unstable and gets very scary and this will also pull a wheely hardcore! you can also run a 7 tooth pinion which mello's it out but is still scary. without doing this mod which i believe most of it is the chain the quad is completly useless you'll smoke clutch after clutch after clutch and never get anywhere. i did all this to my neighbors quad along with stock engine mods and a banshee clutch and the stupid thing smokes my $600 cag at the moment!

yea i really want to try this!!but is the chain long enough? Can u post pictures? im lost!

well today we got the 6 tooth hp housing in before we were using a 7 tooth and the 6 tooth is far better it still hauls a55! but now has the power to pull my 245lbs butt through the grass uphill really fast! at first i wasnt aware of what it would do and i almost wrecked into my neighbors garage thinking it wouldnt pull me through the grass!

there was no rear sprocket spacer needed whats needed is making the chain really tight so it doesnt come off at all even going through bumps. and you have to put the chain on first then tighten down the motor mount bolts with a washer between the top mount to help with the alignment of the chain. i actually want one of these now because after the mods they're really fun and reliable they take a beating with ease alot funner then my cag. but a 110cc swap would be the ultimate!

im still totally lost. Can u give me a step by step? and a list of what i need to do?

k heres what you need to buy to make it haul a55! and this is the cheapest set up i could find.

2 of these

http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product1179.html

one of these make sure you pick the 78 tooth

http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product869.html

one of these for the 6 tooth pinion and to fit a banshee clutch

http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product631.html

banshee clutch since yours is most likely toast which this clutch will need the 2 back nuts ground down to clear the engine case and will allow much higher rpm engagement even higher then those hp springs that suck!

http://www.pocketbikesunlimited.com/...ENT-PARTS.html

and cuz you'll need to cut the bearing that holds the axle to the bike get this bearing here might wanna get a couple. make sure its the zz

http://www.skatebearings.com/6003-2RS-6003-ZZ.htm

so get this and i'll see if my neighbor will let me tear his bike down again to make a how to with pics.

you'll also need a chain breaker tool for #25h chain i got mine from pbu for $44 but tsunamibike sells a bzm one for like $35 that looks identical to mine.

I have an S4 on order and seen this post, will all of this stuff work on an S4 from usa pocket bikes?

All the S4's come from the same factory in China armoks.

sr20hardbody, I would sugject you make it a sticky if you're going to go to all that work. I'm very interested in trying it because mine is still a dog after going to 25H chain with 6 tooth pinion and 78 tooth rear. I even put on a big bore kit, So I'm missing something important here. I haven't changed the bearing though, maybe that's my problem.

cool I ordered everything he said to order and I'll do a pic how to and way to do it when i get everything in.

I think I will replace my bearings, That sounds like a good start but I think what will really make the difference is the Banshee clutch, I'm running a stock one.

Well i installed everything but not good, still a dog it does go better then stock but not much, and I found out the crank in my S4 is a tapered crank so I had to throw the banshee clutch on my lathe and machine a taper in it. works fine but not a rip roaring quad. I just placed an order with DDM for a new head and carb. since I have it might as well get it running like I want !)

i would make sure the banshee clutch is adjusted properly, just a thought

uhhh the banshee has a tapered crank also just like the cags! are you sure you bought the right clutch? sounds like you just modded a c1 clutch to fit which is badazz! is it a 3shoe adjustable or 2 shoe?


and my neighbor pretty much ruined his quad driving it like its litterily unbreakable. he had 3 people on it!!! and it still pulled them with ease. so now im highly thinking of offering him some money for it which then i'll show this how to.

also i modded his stock engine slightly well slightly to me you guys might consider it heavily modded which might explain why it rips so good. i knife edged the stock crank!!!! lol and a bunch of other goodies but i dont consider something fully modded untill theres nothing else you can possibly do to it. ohhh another thing is ditch the $hitty stock quad pipe and bolt on a modded stock cag pipe they fit! but put some heat tape under the gas tank or it'll melt!


ohh and did i mention the rubber or prothane bushings in the tie rods? this will stiffen the front suspension up so its not so trashy which will help handling once you hit that certain speed cuz im telling you guys it becomes unstable!!!! i almost wrecked into a parked car trying to go straight! but now it doesnt do that with the bushings in place.

i also want to turn this pocketquad into a remote controlled version so when someone wants to ride it i can have some fun with them when they least expect it!

I just oredered a pipe, carb, and razor 44mm head from daves....We will see how this thing turns out!!

sr20hardbody, Please post some pictures, I want to see those bushings you're talking about

here check this site out and click on tie rod boots on this list and you'll see what im talking about. i dont know exactly what size cuz i used rubber ones from my civic it was an aftermarket part that i ended up using metal bushings for so i had these rubber ones extra. threw them on the quad and now the steering isnt so shotty. if you look at the tie rods you'll see how much space there is which helps allow to turn but by using a bushing it just stiffens it so its not so loose and rattly. i think the prothanes would work a lot better then the rubber ones cuz the ruber ones are kinda squishy but they do help a lot.

Prothane Product Guide

Well I learned a few things with changing things around.....First the original cylinder on my S4 is a 44mm with a 12mm pin so I had to port the piston myself on my milling machine because the razor cylinder has a 44mm piston with a 10mm pin. I copied the pison port off the razors piston.

But with the replica carb, razor head this thing actaully RIPS!!!! but I could only get three rides out of it till I blew out the pull start!!!! SO back to daves for a metal pull start and I'll have to see how I can reinforce the pully on the starter so that thin plastic doesn't rip out.

So SR20, why do you need 2chains and a chain breaker for this setup? is one not enough? you have to join 2 together? please reply Im doing this "build" right now.

Today I order that 78 tooth sprocket that you said to get, heres the question, if i got the same chain you recommended in this post, would i be able to use that chain and sprocket with my stock pinion up front? or do I still have to upgrade?