i just got a cag and to start it i need to hold the throttle a bit and once its started it idles a bit then when i sit on it to ride theres very little power and it barely moves
is this cause i need to clean the carb?
also im only 180lbs so i dont think its my weight?
i just got a cag and to start it i need to hold the throttle a bit and once its started it idles a bit then when i sit on it to ride theres very little power and it barely moves
is this cause i need to clean the carb?
also im only 180lbs so i dont think its my weight?
I have this same problem. I took apart and cleaned the carb and put a new spark plug in, but still no luck. I am learning as I go, so any help would be great.
Hey great post! I just ripped mine apart and looks like the last pic in your attachments.
This was after the 2nd day of picking it up. My question is where is the dam a/f mixture control, keep reading that its beside the throttle lever but mine seems to be capped off.
I see the flat gold plate but theres no adjustment dial.
If you're working on the stock Cag carburetor, your air/fuel mixture for richer/leaner is the throttle needle itself. On the throttle needle are five slots, with a tiny c-clip on one of them. Generally you start in the middle - down is richer, up is leaner. The throttle needle is located inside the throttle slide (the black cylinder) inside the top of your carburetor - just unscrew the top where your throttle cable goes into, and carefully pull out the whole assembly.
sPYGuy, thanks a million as no one has been able to tell me that thus far, that makes total sense.
Could this be the answer to my problems?? Since the day I got it, it was running like crap. So I took the whole carb apart and put it back together tighter and cleaner.
Surprisingly, it still runs like crap just stronger folr the little bit it runs. I have fresh fuel, new spark plug, and cleaned out everything with carb cleaner. Could this all be a result of the a/f?
I will check out as soon as I get a chance, but would still like to hear back. My thought is that if this was the stock setting from factory, why is it running so crap.
Hmmmm.... just for the heck of it, take the air cleaner off. Put something over the mouth of the carb (like a section of pantyhose, held on with a rubber band), and give that a try, see if it runs any better. You may also need to rejet - could be you're geting more air than fuel in there, and need a bigger main jet for more fuel flow.
(Quite frankly, stock settings from the factory are more often than not "I'll just stick it in here somehow, and let the poor sucker who buys it figure it out.")
I'll try the panty hose trick to allow more air in and see how it runs however, I did clean out the original air filter but I see how the cover can be restrictive.
When cleaning out the carb, I unscrewd the jet and blasted carb cleaner through it and could see the light at the other end through the needle like pinhole in the jet. I am assuming i can open up the jet br drilling slightly larger than it is right now as it sprays a fine mist and I would damage it if that were the case.
It does seem that not enough fuel is getting to the engine though from the sounds of it. The fuel filter is clean, the lines are good and the carb has been cleaned right down to the float. I have also resealed all gaskets with a high temp gasket maker but fuel still seeps out from somewhere only when the valve is left open with engine off?!
Another wierd thing is that oil seems to be spewing out the exhaust when I have less than a 50:1 fuel mixture...less oil more fuel, so I dont know where the black oil is spitting from, can the exhaust possibly be clogged..does this happen? I know the bike has guts cuz when its wants to run I feel it but when I give it WOT it boggs out and dies.
Sorry for all the writing but I really want to have the satisfaction of diagnosing this on my own before I have to take it to a shop..plus the few extra bucks I can save and put it towards other mods instead!! Im sure ya'll can understand!
You can drill out the main jet a size or two larger, but I would recommend getting a jetpack before you do that. One very good reason is that you will have five different-sized jets to play with (66, 68, 70, and 72. stock is 64), so by experimenting with the jets, you can figure out which one best suits your needs. Of course, if you're already running a 72 and feel it's not quite enough, then get your original 64 jet and use a hobby pin drill set to widen it out. Look in the Air-Cooled Mods section at the top of the page, I think there is a complete listing of what size drills will give you what size jets. (For reference, I did this, am running approximately a 76 in one of my bikes.) Remember: once you drill it, you can't go back!
Gas leak on your bike is usually the float not coming up far enough. Bend the float forks down like 1/8" so that they come in contact with the float sooner, and as a result push it up higher. Also, check the float needle (that's the one right above the float forks). Sometimes grit gets into that little tube, and keeps the float needle from seating and sealing correctly.
You don't want to run any less than 32:1, 40:1 on your gas/oil mixture. I know the manufacturer says 50:1, but that just doesn't seem like enough oil. I'd rather slightly overdo it than risk a possible blown engine.
Oil from the exhaust is fairly normal on Cags, although you may want to pull the muffler off and take a look to see if the packing inside the muffler is soaked through with oil. Remember, you're not just burning straight gas like a car, you're burning oil, too, and not all of it gets burnt up - that creates your "sludge" leak from the exhaust. Carefully take the cotter pin out at the end of the muffler, then remove the tension spring and the endcap, and the whole muffler (minus the front endcap - it's welded to the exhaust pipe) should slide right off in your hand. If the packing is thoroughly soaked with oil, replace it with #3 coarse steel wool from your hardware store paint section. After riding, just get in the habit of wiping down the pipe to get rid of any leftover sludge.
Ok, there are 2 parts to the Jet, it the smaller peice that screwes of called the sub-jet? This is the part that has a tiny pinhole and Im wondering if this is the part thats to tight.
Can I widen the hole in the sub-jet and would it damage what its meant to do?
I wouldnt want to widen the main jet as the sub-jet would no longer screw into the threads if i drilled through it.
What you're calling the "sub jet" is actually your MAIN jet - the brass tube it's screwed onto is the tube your throttle needle rides up and down in. Main jets are usually 64's. As I said earlier, yes, you CAN widen the main jet out by using a pin drill, but if you screw up and go too far, then you'll have to purchase another main jet. This is also why I recommended getting the jet pack, as it already has the next four sizes up from the stock 64, so you won't need to drill the jet in case you need it for something else (like rebuilding another carburetor).
Your throttle needle controls speed from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle - after that, it's all main jet. You can taper the end of the throttle needle by chucking it in your dremel and sanding down the very tip to a sharper point. This trick allows you to hit WOT (Wide Open Throttle) a shade quicker than with a stock needle.
Re: Cleaning stock carb tutorial 
Re: Cleaning stock carb tutorial 
