Alright soo I got an account because ive been trying to find the anwser to alot of problems. mainly little ones, about my x-19 S2. So i bought the bike from some guy that really shouldnt have owned it. treated it like ****, rewired half the things(tweaaaked) So anyways Ive straighten most of the stuff out that I could, however Ive read that these things are suppose to do a good 50 or 60. this thing doesnt even hit 30 now that I think about it. That motor it real strong, That battery is **** and doesnt really hold a good charge so maybe thats the problem? iono, just kinda irriatating bc sometimes itll top out at like 25-28 or so. Im sure the gauge works correctly. anyways, please any help would be great and very appricated!
Thank You!
well he said he got it to go 40. and said there was a governor on it. I really dont think he even got it to go 40. either way it should still go faster then even that. Any iders on where the resister would be?
Hmm im not very sure where resistors are but I think they are very close to the carburetor, maybe another member knows, but my bike didn't come with one. And why is there a governor in a X-19? I've only heard of governors in x7's... Ohh contact the business in which the guy you bought it from got the bike. They probably know if the bike has resistors or not.
Go back thru the Search engine and check out what people have done to make the X-18 more reliable.
Things to check.
Valve clearance. Too tight a valve clearance will rob H.P. and hurt the engine.
Air Filter, has it been serviced? Clean?
Fuel filter? Replace it!
It is supposed to have a restricter in it. (the stock filter)
Go to your favorite motorcycle store that sells dirt bikes and ask for a Clear hi-flo fuel filter.
Dont be suprized if they hand you a small Vista view filter with 1/4" ends.
It flows enough fuel to be used on a 650cc machine, it will work on yours.
Some people say that the O.E.M. fuel line is crap.
Replace it with clear fuel line,(so you can observe the fuel flow).
ALWAYS use a form of Hose clamp on fuel lines.
SparK plug, is it fresh?
Use an NGK C7HSA plug.
Spark plug cap, is it in good condtition? If Not, Replace it with an NGK cap.
Chain tension, and lubrication?
Too tight a drive chain will cause drag and can lead to further problems.
Has it been cleaned and lubed?
Oil been changed reciently?
Tire pressures?
20-30 PSI
Your right, the stock battery is CRAP!
Batterys Plus+, sells a 12V 9Ah sealed battery.
You will also want a 'Battery Tender Jr.' this charges, then goes into a monitor, or Float mode. It only charges when the battery needs it. $19.00 on Sale from www.cycle gear.com
Do this stuff BEFORE we start messin with the carb. or anything else.
Oh, get yourself a copy of the Clymer Honda repair manual.
You can get them USED on Amazon.com
Last edited by james1300 : 04-11-2009 at 12:01 PM.
question, How to check valve clearence?
haha I took that crap filter/restrictor off and found in a car/parts box cold air intake. Somewhat smallish, deffinatly suppper small for a car but it looks legit on the bike. =) Also took my handy dandy dremel and notched out the plastics for that crisp cold air. haha soo its stickin out the side of the body. hahaha loooks realll fly. Actually stoped by home depot earlier and am goin back tomarrow to extend intake hose and fuel line. (clear). oil change is also comin tomarrow along with greasin up the chain. and probley loosing it a tad. seems just a bit to tight. already hit up batterys plus. there legit, got the battery needed.
pulled the plug the other dayy, it was suppper black. cleaned it up with some gas and wire brush. probley gettin new one of those however too
just temporary
Thanks for that real indept reply it helped alott.
keep in touch
Dont use Gas as a solvent. Its doesnt do a good job at all.
Use Points and contact cleaner.
Get a Honda Repair manual, published by 'Clymer' Publications
Part number M310, 50-110cc OHC Singles 1965-1985
I got mine 2nd hand on Amazon.com
This manual will help you alot. I was told by 'Rene' our engines are based on the Honda design C-70 engine. The carb internals sure look alot alike!
I plan on setting my valve clearance at 0.005in.
The Chinese engine doesnt have the same quality metal as the origional Honda's and they run a loose tollarance.
Get a Fresh plug. NGK C7HSA. Get a new Spark plug cap NGK XDO5F.
Replace the stock fuel filter.
DO NOT MOD. that air filter until you get the bike running smooth.
By removing its restrictions, you can make the engine run lean. Lean burns down motors. Lean over heats valves. Lean wont make as much power as a stock motor.
For everyone of your actions there is a result. Could be good, could be bad.
Do one change at a time.
That way, if the result isnt what you want, you can change it back and try something else.
Take your time. Listen to what the 'VET's' tell you. They help me out all the time. I learn (and save money and work) by asking then doing.
Alright soo, I threw the stock filter back on. changed the oil(completly dark dark black). with a little bit of flakes in it. yay! yeaah I wasnt very happy about that but good thing I did that now. reconnected a little hose that wasnt on the filter when I swaped it out. but Im quite sure thats where it goes. like I said the guy before me was just a retard. anyways Let it run for a bit to get everything lubed up. MUCH BETTER ALREADY. faster, more responsive, sounds tons better, I adjusted the Idol fairly low but I dont think thats bad for it. (Correct me if im wrong). loosened the chain and greaseed it up with some white lith. May not be the right thing but I was told its a fantastic grease for anything that moves. lol. soo yeah im gettin there. still need new throttle, plug wire and plug. Well first. haha. pretty excited to see what that new plug and wire will do. ohh and high flow fuel regulator forrsure. whelpp thanks again for everyones help, and ill be keepin in touch. Ive got most everything in these blogs written down, I personally wanna thank james. couldnt have been more helpful.
Your getting there!
Hate to do this to ya... Wipe all the Lith Grease off the chain. WD 40 and an old rag outta do it. Next go to a motorcycle store and buy some REAL chain lube. Something that will penetrate between the pins and rollers of the chain. A Lubed and adjusted chain will give great service with minimum drag.
Check the chain tension measured mid way on the chain. It should have
1 1/2" free play. After 8 hours riding, change the oil again! (its gonna be nastey, but thats OK)! Your flushing all the old build-up and old oil out of the engine.
NEVER use any additives in the oil. Use 92 octane fuel.
Check your tire pressure's. 25-30 psi
To make the clutch smoother lube the cable and nipple where it meets with the clutch cable perch and lever. Use White lith. grease on the nipple, exposed cable, and the lever pivot.
Your doing Great!
Remember to use Blue Loctite on all bolts.
To really lube the cluth and throttle cables use a tool called a Cable Lubber. It attaches to the end of a cable and when you squirt the supplied lube it forces all the old out and leaves fresh new in.
A Clymer repair manual will be a big help for you, too.
Honda 50-110cc OHC Singles 1965-1985 Part number M310
I got a used copy from Amazon.com
haha, no sweat its all good. Gotta learn sometimee, maybe my first clue would be that it was soo **** hard to actually apply to the chain. lol
Yeah I dont really mind the oil changes its simple and very beneficial. Not to mention Im supprised this thing still even runs. haha.
So I got a battery from battery plus with no complaints, 12v 7.5ah It works however it really doesnt seem to crank it over as hard as it should. and battery power never hits full. I went to radioshack and found some 5amp fuses. (honestly only place that I could find any at all) let alone 5amp. I dont know if those are strong enough or not? electrical is a WHOLE differnt story. anyywhoo
My bikes an auto. (yes very sad story)
But on a happier note, that website kicks asss. I found that just a little earlier tonight. verry useful, thank you.
A new plug, and cap helps with starting.
Use 'a little' anti-seize compound on the sparkplug threads before you install. Remember, your screwing a steel plug into an aluminum head. Dont over tighten!
Get the manual when you can. Its helps. Lots of 'exploded views' on how things are supposed to look and work.
Valve adjustment is explained in the manual. Set the valves at 0.005in
Honda's are set tighter, but our bikes like the valves loose.
Too loose is always better than too tight.
You will have your bike running better in no time!
40-45 with a 'stock engine' is about right, Ive heard.
But, you cab change the gearing on the counter shaft and rear sprocket to gain a bit more top speed.
Last edited by james1300 : 04-16-2009 at 08:59 AM.
noo, haha honestly that never even came to mind. But then again thats what i have you guys for! Whats the stock valve adj.?
just outta curiousity, Ive heard alot of people sayin go with 20-22mm carb filter, performance tdi, ect. But then again ive heard few saying SAVE MONEY FOR BIG BORE KIT. just kinda curious as to what would actually be the best investment. Now I dont really think Id put much into this auto-bike but just would like to know what im talking about.
also, I was kinda researchin different set ups lastnight(counter and rear) but couldnt really find out what would give me a bit more top end but not to sluggish. if any? any suggestions?
oh, well the biggest thing thats limiting your speed is that your bike is auto, i wouldnt put to much into it, and is only worth doing some serious aftermarket parts is if you get a manual motor. I'm willing to bet that the fastest you will see is 40-45, my modded 110 manual got up to 55, and the only major upgrades were a carb and a pipe
A BIGGER engine is going to be the way I go.
Hot Rod guy's say 'BIGGER is Better'. Then if you want/need more H.P. Mod that.
Come to think of it, thats what my ex-G/F said too!
Your Gearing is a compromise.
Its engineered to give 'good all around performance'.
You can change the gearing, but you have to 'give-up' something for the change. Want more top speed, a smaller rear sprocket will allow you more TOP speed. But, getting there is going to take longer. Same goes for Faster acceleration off the line. You will be Quick, Bigger rear or smaller front. But, the TOP speed will be reduced.
Thats why if you go to a race track, and watch the Tech's in the pits you will see stacks of gearing. Each track is differant. Each may require a differant combination of front and rear sprockets. So they got a stack to choose from. $$$
STOCK gearing isnt too bad for all round fun riding! Besides, its already paid for!
Right now, Im working on making what I have work to its BEST.
sooo, finally I have time to gett back on! alright for everyone thats helped me along the way, ive changed oil about three times now(much much much better) new plug N cap. (starts wittthhh ease) no supprise there. toook off all the fairings haha weight reduction. jkk! i just think its more mee. higher octane gasolinaaa. degreased chain and lubed it up with some actual chain oil. =) adjusted the carb a bit higher. hmm.. rewiredd a feww things(alsoo alooott better) dont blow fuses every ten seconds anymore. sooo shess basically all back to stock now a feww more little kinks im workin out then ill bee investing in some parts. maybee. anywwayss
funny thing a friend of mine has the x18. Pretty coool bike and 4 gears soo deffinatly a plus. anyways I ran into him just crusin down the street, honestly I expected alot more out of the 4 speed. maybe its just that he doesnt know maintance butt mine has muchhhhh better response with a *** up. all this time I thought my bike was only doin like 20-25 which is what the gauge says. butt when he cought up with me we were doin about 48-50. haha bit of a difference. then he crept that extra 5mph haha. =)
question: whats that little plastic screw on top of the crankcase i doo beleive i took it out and im assuming theres fluid that goes in there what kind? there is no gauge on it but it looks reallll dry in there? dont forget its auto. / thanks.
If your talking about the cap thats on the shifter side of your 110cc engine, on top of the case. Thats the timing hole. On the flywheel there are timing marks. NOTHING is supposed to go in there. Its used to look at the timing marks. Nothing more. It has a single slot running all the way across the top of the cap.
well its an automatic so there is no shifter, however its on the side that the shifter would be on. =) im sure its the same deal. Im only concerned because it ticks like the valve isnt moving to smoothly or somethin?. My friends also runs like this so I dont know if its suppose to sound like that or if were both idiots. lol.? help its not the oil its been changed really frequently.
