BRAKES: On most all pocket bikes we use “floating” type disc brakes, most of the time they don't come setup right from the factory, sometimes they don't stop well, and sometimes they drag, If they drag they are killing horsepower and making your clutch work harder, and if they don't stop well you have to brake early and kill any hopes of fast lap times, If they need to be adjusted, Start by adjusting them at the handlebar adjuster, if that is not enough loosen the nut holding the cable arm on to the caliper, now use an Allen wrench in the tip of the black adjusting screw and turn clockwise for tighter and counter clockwise for looser, if the combination of both adjusting points are not enough it's ok we still have a third, at the end of the cable arm is the nut that secures to cable in place, loosen this and try to remove any remaining cable slack.
CARBURETOR: The stock supplied carburetor on the C1 (Dellorto SHA 14/14 Replica) is not the most sufficient for the bike. Its holds back much of the engine's potential, and for the clutch, it won't "bite" down all that hard, and can cause slippage if your not on the throttle. But you may ask, "Can I use this carburetor at all on my C1?" The answer is Yes, using this carburetor is not harming the engine in any way, but to prevent slipping the clutch, you must be on the throttle all the way or not at all, and i don't recommend going up any hills or riding on rough terrain, and most certainly, not the public streets. In most cases, there is no need to re-jet the stock Dellorto SHA 14/14 replica that the bike comes with. Now there are many options for upgrading the stock carb on the C1, Ill start with the Dellorto Sha 16/16. This is a good carb if your looking for performance with simplicity, and/or on a budget. Very reliable, and very easy to tune. It has an adjustable idle screw, which raises or lowers the slide in precise increments, and also a main jet which is changable. Very simple carb. There is a good forum which will tell you how to install this carb, and jetting tips, thread can be found here:
How to: Install Dellorto SHA 16/16 on a Blata rep. WRIST PIN NEEDLE BEARING: The wrist pin needle bearing that is located inside the piston, around the wrist pin, is not the greatest of quality. Some users have had the wrist pin bearing shatter and damage the engine. On the newest generation of blata replica engines, the wrist pin needle bearing is of higher quality, and is fine to use when on your first set of piston and rings. But once its time for a new top end, make sure you purchase a genuine blata wrist pin needle bearing to replace the stock one. You can find them here:
http://www.pannonsports.com/store/pr...2&cat=0&page=1 WATER PUMP BELT: The stock supplied water pump belt is found by taking off the pull starter. You will see a black belt that is around a little wheel, behind the flywheel. The stock water pump belt is not the highest of quality, and for some users has snapped. The bad thing about this is that if it snaps, it will cause the system to not function and you won't find this out unless your engine is seized from this. Again, this isnt something you must buy before you start the engine, but it is one of the first things you should buy for the blata replica's engine. You can find them here:
http://www.pannonsports.com/store/pr...6&cat=0&page=1 GRIPS AND THROTTLE ASSEMBLY: The stock supplied grips are not the best for the C1. They are a hard rubber, and not the most comfortable IMO. As for the throttle, it is cheaply made and needs assisting to retract, as it did not retract when giving the bike throttle, which can be unsafe in some situations. I also found the slack adjuster to be cheaply made and the plastics threads wore out quick which made slack adjusting hard. I recommend you replace this with the Italian made, yet cost effective Domino throttle and grip. You can pick this up for just $30 at
http://www.tsunamibike.com/catalog/i...27/6140138.htm
This throttle and grip is of much higher quality and the grips are much more comfortable. As for the throttle, it is of higher quality material and smoother operation for better throttle retracting.
ENGINE GASKETS: The stock engine gaskets are not the highest of quality, and can sometimes leak and not seal properly. They are good for the first piston and ring set you go through, but when it is time for a new top end rebuild, I highly recommend you replace the gaskets with the ZOCCHI C1 gasket set. These gaskets are Italian made, made out higher quality material, last longer, and are the proper thickness. You can get the ZOCCHI Gasket set here:
C1 GASKET SET - ZOC 800 0234 If you are really cheap, or don't have time to wait, Fuel safe RTV Gasket maker can be used alone, or with the original gasket (as long as it was not damaged during removal) but please don't expect it to last as long as a new gasket.
SPARK PLUG: On most C1 models, they come equipped with a garbage spark plug called TORCH. Do not even run the bike with this plug. They are known for falling apart wich will damage the Engine. I HIGHLY recommend you immediatly replace the plug with the NGK B9ES. It is a very high quality, pre gapped plug and helps for cleaner combustion. If you find your bike sometimes bogging out, running a little rich, plug fouling out, or hard to start, then use the NGK B8ES plug, a slightly hotter spark plug. It is always good to have a few extra spark plugs on hand. Be sure to pick up a few of them here:
NGK SPARK PLUGS
Thanks to
nickj for the help and assistance of this thread
C1/Blata Replica Factory Problems and Fixes 
yip changed for new bearing and seal... only gets tighter when i put the belt on!!!! Hope i do not have to split the motor again!!
