i stiffer rear spring creates lots of heat. thats what i'm getting right now. any cvt system is going to create heat but my belt after a ride is like a hot noodle.
the trick is getting the correct balance of spring tension and weights for optimum belt tension and variator shifting. these factors are different under different conditions.
1) amount of rpms and engine can make
2) final drive gear ratio (on our bikes its the sprockets)
light weights are great if you have the rpms to back it up. on another forums site some guy is running a 14 second 1/4 mile on a derbi gp1 scooter. he is running about 18 grams of weights but he's also turning about 16000 rpms. if you're only turning 6000 to 8000 rpms that weight isn't going to shift your variator.
if you have a bigger rear sprocket you can allow your variator to shift faster with "heavier" weights. just like on my ducati, i put a rear sprocket on with two addtional teeth. my top speed is lower but i accelerate faster and can shift the gears quicker. actually now, i'm only limited in shifting by how fast i can physically shift the gears.
if i had put a smaller rear sprocket on i would have to allow the bike to rev more before i shift. my top speed would be better but my acceleration would be slower. so if you go with a smaller rear sprocket you would have to put "lighter" weights in so the variator would shift slower.
but before i nail the right weight/spring tension combination i have to get some more power and rpms. right now i'm running anywhere from 42 grams to 54 grams with a stock bike and i'm only seeing minor differences from these weights. however its a huge difference from the stock 24 grams of unbalanced weights. i'm not getting the rpms i should be though.
but before i nail the right weight/spring tension combination i have to get some more power and rpms. right now i'm running anywhere from 42 grams to 54 grams with a stock bike and i'm only seeing minor differences from these weights. however its a huge difference from the stock 24 grams of unbalanced weights. i'm not getting the rpms i should be though.
more on this after i whoop on troy this weekend.
A-
(lol)[/quote]
Yea you better get it rite with that kind of CONFIDENCE! That is what I like to hear. I need to be spanked. I have ben a bad boy and am gonna SMOKE you!!!!
UP IN SMOKE LOL LOL LOL cause
"but before i nail the right weight/spring tension combination i have to get some more power and rpms. right now i'm running anywhere from 42 grams to 54 grams with a stock bike and i'm only seeing minor differences from these weights. however its a huge difference from the stock 24 grams of unbalanced weights. i'm not getting the rpms i should be though."
HMMMM I THINK I AM RUNNING 24 GRAMS OF BALANCED WEIGHT AND HAVE MEGA R's With a top speed of 47 mph. Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!
Peace
Last edited by moto-x-troy : 10-01-2004 at 12:35 PM.
yeah, with the rpms you're getting that is most likely the right weight. a stock motor and pipe aren't getting those rpms thus more weight for shifting. please do some research on centrifugal force and get back to me.
yeah, with the rpms you're getting that is most likely the right weight. a stock motor and pipe aren't getting those rpms thus more weight for shifting. please do some research on centrifugal force and get back to me.
ahha
A-
Hey big suga you going to be ready for the first race of the season at K2K? I have not done anything to my bike for it is already too fast for the track! I need to gear up for less top speed. I will have a R1 to race also. There will be a fat man class(over 200lbs) to even out the power to weight ratio. Bart will be running in that class. It will be an open bike class. You will just have to be over 200lbs. A true run what you brung class. So BRING IT BART IS READY!
Hope to see you there! Troy
I have read a lot of posts in here and no one seems to explain how to get your CVT to work to your advantage. The CVT is a good thing to have and if properly tuned will help a lot with takeoff and a higher top speed.
Free tip: Remove the CVT cover, buzz off the front varieter nut so that you can slide the pulleys off the shaft ( I say buzz off because if you do not use an impact you can strip or bend something by trying to hold it from rotating while wrenching or ratcheting) When you pull the varieter apart you will see that there are 6 grooves inside and 4 roller weights in there. Take out one of the weights and respace them evenly leaving only 3 back in, one weight one empty slot, one weight and one empty slot ... Reassemble and do not put the black cover back on the CVT, you will notice that now the engine screams before the front varieter allows the belt to ride up (shift) Your accelaration is now better and your top speed may have increased due to that your bike stays in the power range longer and doesn't upshift till it can actually pull the taller gear.
Under $20 mod: Same as the first mod but purchase some lighter weights from a moped performance shop, they are a standard moped size (there are some larger rollers but if the shop asks your bike takes the smaller more common ones) The stock weights weigh about 7.5 gr although I have seen a lot of variations so that is one reason why some X1s run better than others. You can get the aftermarket weights in .5 gram increments, 3gr, 3.5gr, 4 gr etc.. Now start trying different weights in there, you can use up the other grooves and install 6 weights in there that are lighter and get different results. Remember label your packages of weights because when you do mods to the motor you will increase the engine's rpm and may want to go to lighter weights to take advantage of the new power band.
It is also helpful to delay the shift of the rear spring, it seems like the stock X1 spring is very stiff and shifts about as late as you would want to but you can install shims in front of it to stiffen it up if you want to experiment.
When I modify mopeds we often install "overdrive varieters" basically the front pulley is designed so that it will allow the belt to ride up higher and give you more gear. I do not have the manufacturing capability for such a part but I am sure many of our aftermarket parts suppliers are reading this and maybe someone will put it in the works.
Let me know if this helped you and if you get good results
hey i took it all off to find i had 6 rollers so i decided to take 2 out leaving 4 took it for a sip after and acceleration improved aswell as top end very nice thanks for the tip
I did that mod about 2 months ago,and changed the clutch springs.The results are great,now it doesn't grab till about 8000-9000 rpm.But now I had the head shaved,and the jug done,added a big bore kit,with a full circle crank,now it's just like a Harley,you have to go over all the bolts after a few hours riding.Does anyone know where I can get the front shaft that the clutch basket bolts to??
I did that mod about 2 months ago,and changed the clutch springs.The results are great,now it doesn't grab till about 8000-9000 rpm.But now I had the head shaved,and the jug done,added a big bore kit,with a full circle crank,now it's just like a Harley,you have to go over all the bolts after a few hours riding.Does anyone know where I can get the front shaft that the clutch basket bolts to??
same thing happened to me the easist way to fix it is to drill and tap the shaft and put a stud in it any machine shop can do this. also get a 1/2" bb and a flat dowel put the flywheel on it and grind a little off until it balances this should take alot of vibration out of your motor, although it sounds like your new rotating assembly is way out of balance. after doing this to both my bikes they rev higher and smoother.
matt
The vibration was there,I replaced the 1/2 circle crank with a full circle crank.The motor is well balanced,it just vibrates from the motor work that was done to it.Do you have any idea where I can purchase the shaft from,it's not fixable..
I can get you the whole unit at a fair price! Have not found just the shaft but have made some at a buddys work.
Troy
Quote:
Originally Posted by sikkjon
The vibration was there,I replaced the 1/2 circle crank with a full circle crank.The motor is well balanced,it just vibrates from the motor work that was done to it.Do you have any idea where I can purchase the shaft from,it's not fixable..
I just got done doing this mod ( i had 6 rollers) and all i can say is IT SUCKS on my bike lol i dunno.. but i lost my top end badly.. lol i barely hit 20 mph.. i used to be crusin at 35+ altho my acceleration was like a bat outta hell actually got to ride a wheelie for a couple seconds (i only weigh 120lbs)... it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter lol.. im gonna put 1 more weight back in and try it out in the morning. btw, this made my exhaust fall off.. lol.. mabe to much HP ?? lololol.. anyway
I just got done doing this mod ( i had 6 rollers) and all i can say is IT SUCKS on my bike lol i dunno.. but i lost my top end badly.. lol i barely hit 20 mph.. i used to be crusin at 35+ altho my acceleration was like a bat outta hell actually got to ride a wheelie for a couple seconds (i only weigh 120lbs)... it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter lol.. im gonna put 1 more weight back in and try it out in the morning. btw, this made my exhaust fall off.. lol.. mabe to much HP ?? lololol.. anyway
not enuf weight in there wont let the pullies close together to get the top speed, you have to play w/ it to find out were you like it.
You can also go one step up on the clutch springs-A little stiffer- that gives you a little higher "stall" speed so you get quicker launch off the line. Another way to get a higher stall is to drill out your clutch arms,that lightens up ,the clutch and does the same thing as putting on stiffer springs. To help stop belt slip get a kelvar belt. They also last much longer
[b] OK what bikes are the CVT bikes , and will the cvt trans work with a cheapie "Daytona" type chinese bike?
I picked up 2 of the $300.00 special for my son and myself from Ediscountbike.com , i've been pretty happy with it , but i am a typical "Motorhead" aka speed junkie, stock sucks, yea , i'm the typical speed junkie
So far i have pulled the the insulation out of the muffler , litter louder and picked up a little faster, added a V-stack and air cleaner , now it feels like it is leaning out top end , so i bought 2 more carbs , and a jet kit so i can re-jet them , hopefully it will work a little better... but i was wondering if i could adapt a cvt tranz to my bike , the kiddo's bike is completely stock , granted i know it takes more to move heavier weight i need MORE POWER to keep up with my 8 year old featherlight son....any help would be appreciated.........
Jerimy
no the dayton bikes don't even need cvt.anything is possible with alot of modding.but i think if you want cvt on those bke a whole new bike design would be need.in other words it is real hard to do cuz the cvt trans is pretty big.
i used to be crusin at 35+ altho my acceleration was like a bat outta hell actually got to ride a wheelie for a couple seconds (i only weigh 120lbs)... it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter lol.. im gonna put 1 more weight back in and try it out in the morning. btw, this made my exhaust fall off.. lol.. mabe to much HP ?? lololol.. anyway
