These are just some tips that I have compiled and would like to pass on.
When you first get your bike, replace the motor mount bolts with either stainless steel or another high grade steel bolt. Use blue loctite on them. DO NOT USE THE RED LOCTITE!!! Check all other bolts to see that they are tight and test the brakes before riding. Give the battery a good initial charge, too.
Start out with a 20:1 or 25:1 mix and work your way up to about 32:1. If you use really good gas and semi-synthetic 2 cycle oil you can even go higher, but it's probably not worth risking the damage to your motor because this is the only lubrication that it gets.
When using the pull start, never yank it to full extension. If you do, it won't last long. Usually 3-4 really slow pulls followed by 1-2 short, fast pulls will get you started cold and 1-2 short, fast pulls when warmed up. Don't forget to close the choke or get it to about 1/8 open when cold starting.
If your bike seems sluggish at first, it's because the cylinder needs to break in and you will need to adjust the carb after the cylinder has had some time to do so. After this the bike will run much better and easily get into the mid 20s, if not faster.
An Impact Screwdriver is a must for working on these bikes. It will save you a lot of stripped phillips heads on the original bolts.
The 43cc and 49cc engine cases are identical except for the bolt holes for the ignition coil. On the 43cc engine case the bolt holes are 2" apart. On the 49cc engine case the bolt holes are 2 7/16" apart. Measurements are from center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole.
The coils are obviously different then. On the 43cc coil, there are 2 spades that the wires attach to. On the 49cc coil there is 1 spade with a wire and the other wire has a ring terminal to go under one of the bolts that hold the coil on. This helps if you have to replace your engine case. You can interchange the cases if you change the coils too. (image1 below)
Since the crankshaft is the same in both engines, your engine size/displacement (43cc/49cc) is determined by your cylinder.
This picture (image2 below) can help you identify whether you have a 43cc or 49cc cylinder. You would need to have your cylinder off or know what it looks like on the bottom. Take a good look at the bottoms of the cylinders.
They both use the same base gasket, exhaust gasket, manifold gasket. The intake manifold and spacer is also the same.
CARB TUNING
First, adjust the slack out of the throttle cable by using the barrel nuts and jamb nuts on each end.
The adjusting screws are on the pullstart side of the bike. The idle screw is the screw with the phillips head. It is to the left and higher than the mixture screw which is slotted and has a spring on it. A good rule of thumb is to see if the bike will start and run without any adjustments. If so, I would ride it through 2-3 full tanks before trying any adjustments, so long as it isn't running too crappy.
Mixture adjustment is usually done by running the mixture screw all the way in and then backing it out 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 full turns. Ride the bike, so that you see how it runs with you as a load. If it is sputtering at high throttle, then you are too rich and need to lean the mixture. Leaning is turning the slotted screw to the right (clockwise), which decreases the fuel to air ratio. If it is bogging at high throttle, then you are too lean and need to turn the mixture screw to the left and richen the mixture a little. These fine adjustments should be done in 1/8 turn increments until you get good and maybe even then.
After getting the mixture adjusted, the idle shouldn't be hard. Turn the phillips screw clockwise to raise idle speed or counterclockwise to lower idle speed. Try to get it just high enough to be smooth, as you do not want it to be so high that it makes the bike want to pull when you have it just sitting or on the kickstand.
ROCKET KEY INSTALLATION
As you are facing the flywheel side of your engine, the rocket key should offset the flywheel to the left (counterclockwise). The arrow on the flywheel should also point in the direction of offset, if that is easier to relate to. Also don't forget to set the gap between the magneto on the flywheel and the coil. If you place a business card between them and then tighten the two bolts holding the coil, that should work fine.
Electric Starter Removal/Installation
First disconnect battery wiring harness and remove the starter wire from the solenoid.
1. Remove manual starter
2. Remove starter pawl (on my bikes it is the round silver/chrome metal piece that you see when you remove the manual starter, on some bikes it may be plastic). You will need to be able to keep the crank from rotating to do this step.
3. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the electric starter to the motor.
4. With the starter pawl removed, you should see a black nut in the center of the windings. This nut has internal threads that I believe are M8x1.25. You will need a hardened bolt that is at least 3" long and threaded all the way up to the head. Thread the bolt through the black nut until it presses the starter off. There is a woodruff key in the crank so make sure it doesn't come out and get lost.
Reinstalling is just a matter of aligning the woodruff key with the groove in the windings and reversing the steps.
Hopefully this helps a lot of you and anyone feel free to post any additional tips/info here. It will probably be more efficient to find lots of info in one place or on one thread.
Re: How-To: Lots Of Info Here For X1, X2, X3 Owners
[quote=srwsr;1483]ROCKET KEY INSTALLATION
As you are facing the flywheel side of your engine, the rocket key should offset the flywheel to the left (counterclockwise). The arrow on the flywheel should also point in the direction of offset, if that is easier to relate to. Also don't forget to set the gap between the magneto on the flywheel and the coil. If you place a business card between them and then tighten the two bolts holding the coil, that should work fine.
Is this little do-dad worth it? I'm interested in it, but I dont want to throw away money and time. Anyones thoughts??
rocket key definately worth it,plus made me my own little dual boost bottle set-up.took a stock x-1 with 5 hrs on it added rocket key,rev-pipe,ported intake,drilled tapped intake for dual boost bottle set-up,bosh superstart plug from home depot for $2.made my boost tubes out of Two co2 canisters from paintball gun drilled tops with 3/16 drill bit,slipped green racing fuel line over the end of the co2 canisters got 2 boost tube fittings from fish store and installed,i also recommend drilling out purge valve hole with 1/8 drill bit what a difference,no lag in the low end and its going 38 mph right now.adding velocity stack with built-in choke,90 degree air filter and a 36 tooth rear sprocket-its the smallest for the 5/16 link chain sets and a 20 for the front this saturday and a cvt trans next week,future plans include hp carb and bigbore kit.
rocket key definately worth it,plus made me my own little dual boost bottle set-up.took a stock x-1 with 5 hrs on it added rocket key,rev-pipe,ported intake,drilled tapped intake for dual boost bottle set-up,bosh superstart plug from home depot for $2.made my boost tubes out of Two co2 canisters from paintball gun drilled tops with 3/16 drill bit,slipped green racing fuel line over the end of the co2 canisters got 2 boost tube fittings from fish store and installed,i also recommend drilling out purge valve hole with 1/8 drill bit what a difference,no lag in the low end and its going 38 mph right now.adding velocity stack with built-in choke,90 degree air filter and a 36 tooth rear sprocket-its the smallest for the 5/16 link chain sets and a 20 for the front this saturday and a cvt trans next week,future plans include hp carb and bigbore kit.
(i have a stock x2 that i bought for 100 dollars for some retard, it doesnt even idle but i got the thing going 36 mph!! i dont know how it happened it was on flat ground) any ideas?
How-To: Lots Of Info Here For X1, X2, X3 Owners 
