I know a how-to on oil changes will appear to be very basic to many of you. I have watched someone remove the cam chain tensioner instead of the drain plug before, so I thought it may help someone on their first oil change.
Recommended Tools : 17mm Wrench
Drain Pan
Step One : Remove your fairings (if needed) to access the bottom of the engine.
Step Two : Place a drain pan under the engine.
Step Three : Loosen and remove the drain plug, and washer. The drain plug is the bolt on the right side of the engine, straight down. The bolt on the left side of the engine at an angle is not a draing plug, do not remove it. There is an image below, with an arrow pointing to the drain plug for reference.
Step Four : Let the oil drain for a few minutes, and tilt the bike to each side slightly, as well as straight up, to be sure you get all of the old oil out. (If you change the oil while the bike is warm, the oil is thin, and will drain much faster. Be careful not to burn yourself with the oil, or any engine parts though.)
Step Five : Put the drain plug back in.
Step Six : Remove the dipstick, and wipe it off.
Step Seven : Fill the bike with oil to the manufacturer's recommended capacity. If you have no manufacturer's recommendation, start with 1/2 quart, and check the oil as described in step eight. Most bikes I have seen take a little over 3/4 quart to be full.
Step Eight : Hold the bike straight up, and screw the dipstick in. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level. Add more if needed.
Step Nine : Before you put your fairings on, and everything back together, start the bike, and look for any oil leaks.
Step Ten : Put the fairings back on if necessary, and anything else you removed to access the drain plug.
If you have read this, it's prob your first oil change. Be sure to run a conventional (non-synthetic) oil for at least the first three tanks of gas. Always run motorcycle oil. Automotive oil does not work well with the clutches in your 4 stroke. It is not necessary to switch to a synthetic at any point, however it may offer benefits after break-in. 10w30 and 10w40 are very common. I run Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40 in my engines after break-in. Many others swear by Motul Oils. Still others run a cheaper conventional oil for the life of their engine. That choice is yours.
any oil filters? i've changed oils on cars but its my first time changing on a bike..
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GTVert
I know a how-to on oil changes will appear to be very basic to many of you. I have watched someone remove the cam chain tensioner instead of the drain plug before, so I thought it may help someone on their first oil change.
Recommended Tools : 17mm Wrench
Drain Pan
Step One : Remove your fairings (if needed) to access the bottom of the engine.
Step Two : Place a drain pan under the engine.
Step Three : Loosen and remove the drain plug, and washer. The drain plug is the bolt on the right side of the engine, straight down. The bolt on the left side of the engine at an angle is not a draing plug, do not remove it. There is an image below, with an arrow pointing to the drain plug for reference.
Step Four : Let the oil drain for a few minutes, and tilt the bike to each side slightly, as well as straight up, to be sure you get all of the old oil out. (If you change the oil while the bike is warm, the oil is thin, and will drain much faster. Be careful not to burn yourself with the oil, or any engine parts though.)
Step Five : Put the drain plug back in.
Step Six : Remove the dipstick, and wipe it off.
Step Seven : Fill the bike with oil to the manufacturer's recommended capacity. If you have no manufacturer's recommendation, start with 1/2 quart, and check the oil as described in step eight. Most bikes I have seen take a little over 3/4 quart to be full.
Step Eight : Hold the bike straight up, and screw the dipstick in. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level. Add more if needed.
Step Nine : Before you put your fairings on, and everything back together, start the bike, and look for any oil leaks.
Step Ten : Put the fairings back on if necessary, and anything else you removed to access the drain plug.
If you have read this, it's prob your first oil change. Be sure to run a conventional (non-synthetic) oil for at least the first three tanks of gas. Always run motorcycle oil. Automotive oil does not work well with the clutches in your 4 stroke. It is not necessary to switch to a synthetic at any point, however it may offer benefits after break-in. 10w30 and 10w40 are very common. I run Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40 in my engines after break-in. Many others swear by Motul Oils. Still others run a cheaper conventional oil for the life of their engine. That choice is yours.
Step Four : Let the oil drain for a few minutes, and tilt the bike to each side slightly, as well as straight up, to be sure you get all of the old oil out. (If you change the oil while the bike is warm, the oil is thin, and will drain much faster. Be careful not to burn yourself with the oil, or any engine parts though.)
great post but 1 ? i tried changing my oil today and i tried a wrench and a socket wrench and i just couldnt loosen it and dont say im juss to weak cuz my dad tried it to and he couldnt get it either. any recommendations?
forgive me if you have already tried this, its simple but suprisingly some people don't know about it... put the wrench/socket on and be sure it is secure. instead of applying constant pressure, jolt it. if you can do it without hurting your hand, that should work, if not try a small rubber mallet. just be sure to have the correct size wrench/socket and not to round anything off.
beyond that, you can try liquid wrench/pb blaster, though it prob wont do much. last resort is an impact gun. sometimes they put the drain plugs in very tight from the factory.
I like to change oil often. It's only $7-8 for Mobil 1 MX4T. I would like to say at least once a month if you ride often. You could stretch oil changes longer if you would like. Every one has different opinions on oil change intervals, my logic is that too soon will never hurt the engine, changing oil too late can.
ya thats a great way to hurt your hands, even get stitches
i know it happened to me
the proper tool is a breaker bar
i cant believe a 3/8 gun wouldnt touch it
i really cant believe you even put a gun on it, let alone a 1/2 ingersol rand, sheesh
I just had my '08 X18-R Nitro Super Pocket Bike delivered today and doing an oil change on it now. I was wondering what kind of oil to be using on the break-in period and then after that. Since it is a Honda engine and I am a big fan of Honda Genuine fluids. I wanted to use the Honda motorcylce oil. Is that a decent oil for the bike? I'm not racing just joy riding and I'm in high altitude. What are your recomendations?
Also what is the Torque specs on the drain plug for the 110cc engine?
I'm just wondering. I just droped the oil and was looking closely at its condition. I noticed that there were metal shavings in the oil. Now in cars thats bad. I don't know bikes, but I'm thinking its on the same lines. This bike is brand new. I haven't even started it yet.
Re: 4T Oil Change 
