Cateye Help!

lol no beef here guys just a few questions and answers. no one has to take it the wrong way. these are just opinions. but no one answered my question about the electric start

If you turn the e-start button into a kill switch;-it will not e-start the bike again...........Do you have a control module box on your bike? The fuse is a volkswagen beetle type fuse;-10 amp.......

The electric starter system is basic........it uses 12 volts of power to transfer the higher amperage power from the battery to the starter through a relay called the solenoid.........


on the soleniod theres a two wire harness plug with 16-18 ga wiring. 1 wire is the power in wire and the other is the ground.......the power-in wire becomes energized when the key switch is thrown.;-the starter push button switch completes the ground circuit to activate the relay..............

the battery power goes on one terminal and the other terminal hooks to the starter.............The starter has only 1 tab because the case is grounded to the engine case/bike frame.


when the relay is activated it transfers the full amperage power from the battery to the starter.

The starter and alternator are the same unit;-when power is applied to it;-it acts as a starter;-when centrifugal inertia is applied it becomes a generator...This generator is a/c powered and is converted to D/c through the diode known as a rectifier/regulator so it can charge the battery.

All you need is a good battery;-a good solenoid and good wiring to hook it all up and if you want the charging system also;-youll need a good rectifier..............


I would say turn the horn button into a killswitch so you can keep the electric start ;-but you know how that would go ...............................Peace

well i need a charging system otherwise id have to buy a new battery all the time. these arent cell batteries right so i cant use a car battery charger for it. but can i have a step by step procedure? lol but i dont understand that when it was hooked up as an e start it didnt have a kill switch right? or did it work?

You wouldnt have to buy a battery all the time;-you would just to have a Battery Tender brand trickle charger and put it on charge after every use.......

you can use a car battery charger that has a 2 amp charge setting........you just cant charge it for more than an hour at 2 amps and 30 mins at 4 amps when its low.

the keyswitch is the killswitch;- theres 4 wires coming off the key;-two oranges a green and a black with white stripe.........the two oranges turn on the bikes power and the green and black with white stripe are the kill switch wires and act as such when the key is turned off...............do you need a module box?I have half a dozen of them.....................

i believe i have all of that. i am posting pics of everything i have. just tell me what i need to do in order to get the e start and kill switch working. ill worry about lights and stuff later. thanks

Thanks man ;-posting pictures really helps sometimes..........

Plus I forgot to add;-.............To start the bike;-you turn on the key ;-pump the primer;-set the choke;-pull the left brake handle and push starter button............look at the left brakehandle and follow the wire down to see if its hooked up;-it has to be hooked up to complete the starter circuit;-its a starter safety switch........................Peace

here they are

ok well i undid all t wiring lol. just to try avoid all of that other stuff you said. but the primer on my carb has been rmoved. it should be on the bottom right? and wheres the choke lever?

ok ive noticed that none of these wires match up with eachother! what are the necessities in order of getting this bike to run?

Does your carb have a butterfly valve or barrelvalve.........hp carbs dont have primer bulbs and the choke is built-in to the stock airfilter.....if you want a choke;-you need a velocity stack with built-in choke.......

Take the wiring harness;- un wrap the whole thing and lay it where the engine is on top and hook up all the plugs................ follow the wires from the starter switch;-left brake switch;-ignition switch and see if they all check out with a continuity tester on a digital multimeter.............turn the key on and see if the circuit is completing the circuit to a leg on the solenoid and that the other wire beeps when the start button is pushed while the other probe is grounded..........Do a continuity test on the starter button;-it may be bad;- do a continuity test on the leftbrake handle switch harness plug/wire.Take out the solenoid and check it on a 10 amp battery charger by placing one wire on pos and the other on neg;-if it clicks its good................the wires are cross polarized so neg can be pos and pos can be neg.................

Do a continuity test on all the grounds;-the ground wires are green and also black..................

ok everything is good. i was suprised to find a voltmeter. i dont have a multi meter but id like to try this the hard way. the kill/start switch button has a green wire and a black with white stripe. not what you sad. Where do i plug it? does anyone have a step by step for hooking up the estart? all i want is the e start and kill switch. What do i do? from those pics i posted do i have all the parts i need for e start?

Thats why a digital mulitmeter comes in handy.................you can either buzz out the connects and the functions with a continuity test or you can do a voltage check with the harness powered up........................Peace

yes I did I said there should be 4 wires ;-two wires are the power and the green and black with white stripe is the killswitch wires...........scroll down...

Its harder to check the leftbrake handle and starter switch seeings these switches activate from a ground as a ground trigger...........

do you have one of these pictured below?

ok i found one! the harness is good! now what do i do

no i dont have one of those

Turn on the key................find the solenoid wire plug........take the tester and check both legs individually...........one should show power [12 volts]

If it does test the solenoid on a battery charger at 10 amps to see if it functions[clicks].


If it clicks...........on one terminal should be the battery and power accessory wire which is 16-18 gauge and either red or yellow and has a loop terminal on it.................The accessory wire powers up the harness but it goes through the fuse before it powers the harness.

the solenoid gets triggerd from groung through the starter button which completes the circuit to activate the solenoid when the brake handle is pulled and the startrer button is pushed

the other side goes to the starter................

If the harness checks out ;-check the battery out;-if it doesnt have enough power in it;-it wont even make the starter or solenoid make a peep..

The left brake handle must be pulled to activate the electric lockout mechanism to allow the starter button to function..................

kay so is there a wire to wire display? like can you tell me which colors go with which colors? lol

There's not a beef here. What I meant buy making it harder was why cut wire's when you can just plug the connectors together that's already there.

thats what i was originally asking. good thing i havent cut anything but stray can you answer my above question?

ok and why does it have a super skinny like 1" diameter piipe and no silencer?
also it looks like its leaking over the side of the engin, looks like its coming from the cylinder. Why is it so hard to start?