electric system

Well my bike is kind of new and only spend about 1 ful tank of gas so far without problems the only thing going wrong is that when i turn the key ignitor to on nothing on the electric works, doesn't even show battery power and gear screen and not even lights. My only choice is to kick start it and it then works all fine. So what's really wrong because i want it to start with electric start. And ive rode my bike for a while and it's still not working on the electric start. Is it the battery? Because when I ride it should self charge or does it take a couple rides to make it to charge the battery enough? Or is it some wire? Because I look at my fuse and it's all ok. If you want to talk about getting a charger please talk about it later for now answer these questions. Thank You.

im having the same problem with mine, haven't figured it out yet.

Because I rode plenty with my bike after the electric start broke about 30 miles a little more than half tank gas before it broke I rode more than that. And yes my bike is the x 18.

Check the fuse and fuse holder and fuseholder harness plug.........Check the battery connections also.........You need to remove the tank cover and use a multimeter or light tester to test the connections/battery after visually inspecting fuse and doing a continuity test on it to see if its really good.....................

The wiring in the superbikes is made from recycled wire and the terminals tips are crap.Some terminal tips dont lock into the harness plugs right and tight so they disconnect from vibration........causing problems.........

This problem happens especially for the ones who wash their bikes with WATER........

Water is bad for these bikes.........the harness isnt made waterproof;neither is the fuse holder/start button..In order to make your bike able to be washed...;- every connection needs to be disconnected one at a time and terminal paste should be put on the terminals;plugs reattached and humidity sealed with 3M Scotchkote Electrical coating;which is a liquid brush-on sealer.The start button solder connections also need 3M dabbed on ..............

Ok Thanx. And also for some reason it actually works after a ride but b4 a ride when the engine is cool it works with the batter thing showing like 1/4 and a couple secs later jumps to like 3/4. But after a ride it shows like 3/4.. Is it acurate battery shower? And why don't it start b4 a ride with electric? Is it the battery low? Thank You.

When you get the bike new.............Its recommended that you charge the battery fully before using the bike........If your bike came w/o the charger;-youll need to get a 2 amp trickle charger....Trickle Chargers are easy on the battery so it dont burn it out plus it wont overcharge it either with a Battery Tender brand.

Dont always assume the assembler knows what hes doing........Sometimes you have to recheck..Maybe the battery terminals arent connecting correctly.

The battery could also be compromised............If the internal vent valve fails;-so will the battery.......

Take the battery out and have it tested at Walmart or Advance Auto Parts.....

If battery is bad buy a battery tender jr and a wetcell maintainance free battery............hook it up and wire the charger harness plug onto battery and you should be good....................

Ok the generator is working while the bike is running. And when I attach another 12v battery to the current it works so it can't be the vent valve I think. And is it the self charging wire then or something? Because Ive rode for a while and now it won't charge up while riding. So what can this be? Charge wire? My last ride the battery like went up and stayed andd after it was cool it went down again and I heat up the bike and ride battery works again and yes it was low and after that it won't even work at all but isn't it supposed to self charge when it's completely out? Oh and is the battery power thing on the bike that shows amount of battery left under the speedometer accurate? Answer all questions please. Thank You.

Do you have a multimeter????/If not youll need one......

Didnt you just say you used an alternate 12volt source and it works or did you mean it didnt work.You have to explain your situation clearly and in as much detail as you can....

Sounds like you may have a couple of things to look over......one is to use a multimeter to do an ohms test on the rectifier/regulator and a volts output test...

The volts output test is easy;-take off battery cover and test battery voltage.....start bike and retest. the battery should show 11.1-12.2 unrunning and 12.7-13.5 running.......if you have a 12.7-13.5 output.-get a new battery.The batteries in these bikes arent made for high draw demand start conditions and when the internal valve fails and the battery cannot naturally vent out it ruptures and fails and dies.......

Regulator/Rectifier Test

To begin the test, switch the knob on the multimeter to the “DIODE”

From the multimeter connect the RED test connector to the BLACK wire coming from the regulator rectifier. Then from the multimeter connect the BLACK test connector to the YELLOW wires coming from the regulator rectifier. The readout should show between 0.400-0.600 along with a single audible beep . Continue by testing the white wires following the same testing procedure.
When a diode is bad: You’ll hear a continuous tone with a readout of 0.000 as shown in or the readout will indicate any number value other than 0.400-0.600 shown in or the readout with indicate “Ol".

check the regulator plug terminal connects also

If all else fails the 12volt sense wire is going to have to be traced back and checked within the harness junction connection with the keyswitch routing..........

If the bike is still new and the gremlins are too well hidden;- I suggest that you contact the place you got it from and demand a new harness and exercise the warranty by putting in a claim.Peace

What do you mean the battery should show 11.1-12.2 unrunning and 12.7-13.5 running.......if you have a 12.7-13.5 output.-get a new battery.The batteries in these bikes arent made for high draw demand start conditions and when the internal valve fails and the battery cannot naturally vent out it ruptures and fails and dies....... in the underlined part. Well yes ive tested it on the volt thing connecting it to battery it showed 0.2 something like that and then 0.000 after a ride and yes i used another battery and connected the wires to my previous battery like when a car battery runs out they use another car to connect the wires to start it I did it simple and it worked so is it the valve? Oh and isn't it supposed to self-charge then? Or is there like a wire that connects to the battery and the generator to charge it and it's ripped or something?

if you touch the probes to the battery with bike unrunning you should get 11.2-12.2.If its under that ;-start the bike and if the battery registers the correct voltage then the batterys no good because the charging systems fine...........


Theres a plug under the gastank cover in the harness;-its a three wire flat rectangular plug labeled 'METoR'-thats how they spell it and check the connections;-thats the plug for the voltage sense wire and the charge progress voltmeter in the gauge cluster.......


One other thing does come to mind though..........Check the wires on the starter solenoid.theres a 14 gauge redwire along with two 10 gauge voltage supply wires and the red 14 gauge side should be on the same side as the battery input side..........youll have to cut the tywraps to look at that.....

Try not to use a car battery to jump these bikes either...........A car battery is rated at 55- 65 amps and these batteries are only 12volts 6.5 amps.........

After reading what you wrote Im going with cooked battery in need of replacing..........Peace

if you touch the probes to the battery with bike unrunning you should get 11.2-12.2.If its under that ;-start the bike and if the battery registers the correct voltage then the batterys no good because the charging systems fine...........
I still don't get this because you said the chargin system is fine and the battery is no good even if it registers the correct volatage it makes no sense lol Can you resay it again?

Oh and the battery is not from the car it's from a toy electric vehicle and it's 12v and by the way on the x 18 it doesn't say 6.5 amps is says 6.5 and some weird letters so yea and I talked with an engeneering technician and thay said that the 6.5 number shows how long the battery will last and said as long as it's a 12v battery. You think So? Thanks.

if youre telling me you think your batterys good and theres a different problem;-there shouldnt be any type of charging voltage or be any voltage over the same voltage as battery w/o it running when the bike is running,,,If youre getting current to the battery thats higher than initial voltage when its running;-the batterys crapped out/gone/caput.Any of those rechargeable ride on toys have batteries that are the bare base acceptable unit that will allow it to work for a while but not forever........The hotwheels battery may have the ability to be charged ;-but is good enough to withstand a load test??Was it charged with the right recommended charger for recommended time?????

I told you a few posts back to have the batteries totally eliminated on the suspect list by having them tested at Advance Auto Parts or Walmart auto center....They do load tests on batteries for free............

You never stated if you did or didnt and so now im guessing you never did and dont want to spend the $40.00 for the wetcell replacement battery or order another cheapo from the internet until youre convinced of the problem and if you go and get a troubleshooting manual ;-the first thing they suggest is to fully charge battery and have it load tested...........

If you read the top of the battery it says that max charge method is a 7amp quick charger x 30mins and a standard charge of less than 1 amp[0.7a].....The batterys output is designed for 6.5 amps an hour of continuous power...These superbikes run off of the a/c powered stator and the rectifier converts the a/c power to d/c just to charge the battery;-it does not run off of the battery.........

Yes ive done a voltage test but not at those automotive shops but then I went to an engineer and he told me that at least it's a 12v battery and the 6.5 number doesn't matter because it's how much power it has and said it almost means how long it will last. So for me it's either the battery's broken since yes when I turn on the bike and like rev it up my battery shows that it's over full under my speedo. And what do you mean when you say run off of? - "(These superbikes run off of the a/c powered stator and the rectifier converts the a/c power to d/c just to charge the battery;-it does not run off of the battery.........)" Thank You. I'm getting to the point.

well I dont know where that engineer went to school but theres big differences in battery amps / load amps and continuous voltage supply amps also..That 6.5 amp rating is the amount of input voltage it can handle in a single charge and from the alternator;-If you use a 10 amp charger to charge battery for over 30 mins;-You cook the battery from overcharging it with too much amperage////Amperage is more powerful than voltage;-Amperage is what gives voltage its strength....................You cannot ever take a superbike battery and start a car can you????????Ever see someone jumpstart a car with a motorcycle???You cannot put an oldschool motorcycle battery in a new model....all batteries have different load amps and cranking amps and continuous supply amps.Theres so many group categories you can get confused trying to remember whats- what.............Do a google search yourself and do research on batteries and their differences for different application uses....
the stator output is a/c current........the cdi box operates off of a/c current and pulse.The starting system runs off of D/C current.You can rip out the rectifier and the battery and still run the bike..........

The a/c current is converted to d/c current through the regulator/rectifier to charge the battery.

If your bikes showing voltage when its running through voltmeter then the charging systems fine and you just need a wetcell maintainance-free replacement battery from Walmart or Pepboys....$35.00

If your bikes showing voltage when its running through voltmeter then the charging systems fine and you just need a wetcell maintainance-free replacement battery from Walmart or Pepboys....$35.00
That's not free. Oh by the way the battery is 12v and yes u know it says 6.5 amps it actually sais 6.5 ah with the two letters "ah" , and I have a charger for that battery it matches. I think that 12v battery and maybe more than 6.5ah would be fine? would it? Because the engineer said it's only gonna let it last longer. And on yahoo answers they said the same thing. and maybe all that matter is volts. And the charger actually needs 12 hours charge from dead battery and it's a good battery. Thanks.

Is that neon and what's that thick probably the thickest one green wire and like a small metal bucket is it for the gas flow?

Oh and is the generator supposed to be about 7.5 - 8 volts? I revd my bike up and connected the volt tester on the battery and it showd around 7.500 - 8.000