Okay, Just ordered a Mikuni 22m carb, and a K&N air filter.
Carb: $42.80 Filter: $21.00 (shipping included)
Thats all the performance upgrades i can afford for now. I think i will stop there, bank accounts running low (unemployed 18 year old)
So lets do a price review:
X15: $100 Replacement Forks: $51.36 Mikuni 22mm Carb: $41.80 K&N Air filter: $21.00 Oil: $10.00 Bolts and fuel line: $10.00 ------------------------------------------------------------ My X15: $234.16
New x15: $600 ish -------------------------------------------------------------- = a good deal on a customised X15
The parts should be in by the time i get back from D.C. Next week. So i'll be posting as soon as i get them in. One question: Should i bolt the air filter to the carb or use the air snorkle?
DO NOT USE AIR SNORKLE! it is really bad (from what ive herd) but i have mine bolted right on. and about the rpm thing. just you gotta go higher rpm in 3rd gear. i can almost get to 33 mabe in 3rd. what i do is go really high rpm in 2nd just to kinda see how high it can go. then you will tell when the rpms wont go higher. but dont hold it there for long. but make sure the motor mounts are tight. cuz these go to really high rpm. and they vibrate a lot. and accordinng to my stock speedometer i have gone 53mph. then i had to slam on brakes so i no ram this house.
okay, i finally got pics of the bike all put together.
and here they are.
The last picture shows a crack up near the windscreen. I gotta fix that and i was thinking about using some plastic coat hangers to make braces for them. help keep them sturdy incase a crash. kinda like the NSR's and YSR's do.
i was also thinking, when i take off all my plastics to switch out the carb and air filter, that i would get some engine paint and paint up my exhaust, just to give it some extra eye candy. ( i need to do it on my big bike as well, keep it from rusting)
Last edited by FiveStarSky : 12-11-2008 at 05:11 PM.
Yeah, rides alot better too, A few problems i'm gonna have to work out when i get back from D.C. is that the front brake lever hits the plastic, restricting my turn radius. I might just have to lower the bike a little in the front, and set the bars on top of the tree. Probably not very safe, but will fix my problem. On the pics i didn't want to show the left side as it has some serious road rash.
I wont be able to work on the bike untill i get back from D.C. I have to work tomorrow (8-7), then drive to my gf's house (1hr) , and then leave her house at 3:30am, drive to austin (2hrs) hop on a plane, then fly to D.C. (unkown hrs) -longest day ever-
I've noticed a few postings about people using skateboard wheels to use as frame sliders. Seems like a good idea, so i might rig something up.
But I will keep track of my carb and air filter to see when they get in.
and when i do there will be lots of pictures! When i strip the bike back down i'll fix the cracks and see if i can make those windscreen braces.
Oh 15, thanks for the tip about high revving it in 3rd, seems to help a little bit. but i still think is my carb, i would try to tune it, but i'll just wait untill i get the mikuni carb
x15masta, what mods have you done to your bik?
Last edited by FiveStarSky : 12-11-2008 at 06:42 PM.
yea i donno about the like pipe. i would just keep the stock. and buy 20 dollars on something ealse. but thats what i noticed like i would go to high rpm and higher and higher and i was like dang these go hirger rpm than i though. but yea carb will probably help a lot.
and as far as mods.
i have um an uni airfilter. i need to change oil btw. and 1/4 inch fuel lines and fuel filter. hopefully getting new good tires soon cuz my stock ones when i got it are still not very round so its bumpy and i will hopefully be getting new carb soon also. but the gearing is excellent.stock. like on my x18 was so bad with stock gearing like i wouldnt even use 1st gear i would start out in 2nd cand low top speed uz of such accel gearing.
yea i donno about the like pipe. i would just keep the stock. and buy 20 dollars on something ealse. but thats what i noticed like i would go to high rpm and higher and higher and i was like dang these go hirger rpm than i though. but yea carb will probably help a lot.
and as far as mods.
i have um an uni airfilter. i need to change oil btw. and 1/4 inch fuel lines and fuel filter. hopefully getting new good tires soon cuz my stock ones when i got it are still not very round so its bumpy and i will hopefully be getting new carb soon also. but the gearing is excellent.stock. like on my x18 was so bad with stock gearing like i wouldnt even use 1st gear i would start out in 2nd cand low top speed uz of such accel gearing.
well, i'm not sure what the deal is, most people say they can get up to 50 on the stock bikes, but so far my speedo has only tapped 40 once, when i shift into 4th, the rpms dont seem to pick up any, it just goes at a low growl, havent topped out rpm's in 4th yet. whats the problem? should i adjust my carb? and how do you adjust it for max performance?
I hate to say it but youre working a little backwards in your mod.......................Heres how it should go...........
1. Battery with trickle charger
2. Sparkplug
3. Spark cap
4. Hp sparkwire
5. Hp foam airfilter
6. 1/4" fuelline
7. 1/4"fuelfilter.
8. Racing CDI that advances the timing
9. stock carb rejet
10. Head breather kit that fits in valvecover
11. front and rear sprocket 16/28
12. 22mm carb / intake
13. Supercoil
14. Performance exhaust
15. Oil cooler
Youre gonna find that the 22mm is gonna be a pain to get jetted right without upgrading the stock components first......all of the stock components that dont get changed add up to a governing restriction or a deficiency.......................
The rule of thumb is to max out the basics making the bike want more then feed the need until youre doing 60 and are ready to juice it up with a camshaft or a big bore kit.
I took a totally stock X-19 barely broken in and got it from 40 mph stock to 60 mph modded , gave it some flash and made it reliable also with all the pieces in the pictures below.I never even changed the stock carb;-I just ported the carb;rejetted it and smoothed the intake and ported it to match the head and the carb flange mount area.The only thing I did to the exhaust was port the headpipe inner weld restriction......................Peace
[quote=x15 masta;388187]yea i donno about the like pipe. i would just keep the stock. and buy 20 dollars on something ealse. but thats what i noticed like i would go to high rpm and higher and higher and i was like dang these go hirger rpm than i though. but yea carb will probably help a lot.[quote <]
My old stock 110's would rev out to 8800 - 9000 rpm's on the Vapor and them engines are rated at 7500 rpm's.........The fastest I got a fully worked out 110cc engine was 88 mph at 9390 rpms before it grenaded........................
My new dragbike setup revs to 9000 - 9900 easily and when I juice it with NOS the tach pins out at 10k and feels like its peaking around 11,500............... Peace
1. Battery with trickle charger
2. Sparkplug
3. Spark cap
4. Hp sparkwire
5. Hp foam airfilter
6. 1/4" fuelline
7. 1/4"fuelfilter.
8. Racing CDI that advances the timing
9. stock carb rejet
10. Head breather kit that fits in valvecover
11. front and rear sprocket 16/28
12. 22mm carb / intake
13. Supercoil
14. Performance exhaust
15. Oil cooler
I think i'm doing fine. Lets Review.
1. Battery - Yanked, dont need it. no electronics.
2. Sparkplug - Check
3-4. will be replaceing from a lawnmower.
5. Air filter - Check
6. 1/4" fuel line - Check
7. 1/4" Fuel filter - Check
8. CDI - personally not worth the money
9. Carb Rejet - Buyin new carb
10. Breather Kit - maybe someday, but not for now
11. Sprockets - to costly for now.
12. 22mm carb - Check
13-15 dont plan to go that far with the bike.
Once i sell my two cats, i'll probalby use some of that money on a sprocket, head breather, or CDI, whichever is cheapest.
Last edited by FiveStarSky : 12-11-2008 at 10:59 PM.
ok i herd that the stock head comes with a breather thign on it. and about the jets i dont want to buy jsets if im buying a new carb. does the sparkplug make much of difference? cuz if i get irradium they a lot kinda. and i plan on getting a cdi after the carb. an di finally got new battery.
ok i herd that the stock head comes with a breather thign on it. and about the jets i dont want to buy jsets if im buying a new carb. does the sparkplug make much of difference? cuz if i get irradium they a lot kinda. and i plan on getting a cdi after the carb. an di finally got new battery.
No, the breather kit comes with two plates that you have to switch with the stock ones.
this one off scooterparts4less cost $58.
And if your buying a new carb, i would hold off on the jets.
The spark plugs dont really matter on the brand or type, as long as you pull them out everyonce in a while and check to see if gunk is built up on them. IMO, you wont see any noticable differences between the stock and upgraded spark plugs, but its a good idea to replace them, as they will last longer and be more reliable.
from what i found breathers are about $50, CDI's $20, sprockets differ depending on the size.
Last edited by FiveStarSky : 12-12-2008 at 12:18 AM.
on my other bike i had a better plug but it wasnt ngk or whatever. i will probably get one soon. but the autozone where i used to get them stopped carrying them
The head breather kit costs $25 and the one I did on some of my bikes cost me $10 bucks and 20 mins time...............
I bought a couple of 1/4 NPT brass barbs with 1/4" barbed end and drilled my stock valve cover and tapped it to accept the fitting and assembled it with Teflon tape and teed the hose into the rear evac port and ran that to a custom velocity stack I made out of PVC and shaped it and RTV'd it direct to the carb........................
Five Star the lawnmower sparkcaps arent the same as the one needed for your engine............The spark cap thats needed is a resistor cap...........The resistor cap balances the resistance in the coil to tolerable levels so the coil can repeatedly perform without stress related failures or misfires................................Peace
My head breather kit sucks the heat and the pressure thats built up inside the engine............
the piston is shaped like a parachute and it collects the positive crankcase pressure and slows the return motion of the piston and the crank............producing less rpms and adding more stress to the crank;-thus producing crappy power........................
when you suck out the pressure and give it easy ways of evacuating that pressure and heat..............your engine spools up faster and runs more rpms on the top end and sucks out the heat that causes metal fatigue and power robbing stress.An oil cooler is a real good helper in this area.I didnt think an oil cooler made much of a difference but after I installed it and gave it a hard ride for over an hour and the engine kept delivering the same power bursts time after time relentlessly without any signs of power robbing stress.The cooler only costs $40 and another $20 for the adapter plate.The stock oil pump in the 110 is more than capable of accepting a oil cooler and running it efficiently without having to run a boosted oil pump...............................Peace
CAM lemme check, is this right? you tapped one of the valve covers and re-directed the tubing to come out infront of your homemade v-stack?
I ran a 1/4" line from the valvecover back towards the rear evac port on the rear of the crankcase, I hooked those together with a 1/4" 3 way brass tee and ran the third line back to the homemade v-stack so the suction from the engine at high rpms will suck out the heat and pressure from both the head and the crankcase together at the same time..............Peace
