the rims were painted using rustoleum outdoor satin black. it has pretty good chemical resistance when fully dry. I'm using rattle can paint for quite a bit of the project, take your time and spray paint can look pretty **** good.
Last night i primered the body work, used dupont white primer surfacer and sprayed it with a gravity feed hvlp. got some sanding to do, some more coats of primer and soon.. color, which will be a 2 stage dupont mix.
good job on the build so far! when i freshened up my x19 i put a TBparts hi flow head with crower v2 camshaft in and a kitco inner rotor to lighten up rotating assembly and it pulls like a raped ape. id throw a s35 cam in her, do the exhaust mod like cam said and throw it on a diet. then watch your horsepower grow!
both the intake manifold and the exhaust have been ported, not sure about doing the head replacement and cam.. i'm strongly considering a hi-po184cc direct fit 4 stroker for the bike.
doing the upgrades would be negated, just fun until new motor goes in as well as a higher resale on the 110..
tough call.. but i think big displacement might be my calling..
and i'm gonna go out on a limb and assume the gold calipers and forks are all good.. didnt see any nay's.
good job on the build so far! when i freshened up my x19 i put a TBparts hi flow head with crower v2 camshaft in and a kitco inner rotor to lighten up rotating assembly and it pulls like a raped ape. id throw a s35 cam in her, do the exhaust mod like cam said and throw it on a diet. then watch your horsepower grow!
You'd have to get a takegawa +r supehead or a tb v2 roller racehead in order to use a s35 cam.The s35 cam is a roller cam that is designed for roller rockers.It will not work with the standard flat tappets. I run a s35 cam and I LOVE IT!!!! Motor pulls to the moon!
couldn't sleep so i decided to get the motor installed and all hooked up. Anyone have a front brake lever and the rear brake brake lever and actuator rod for sale?
racing is still a maybe.. bike needs more tuning as well as my skills..
this weekend my goal is to get the exhaust built. going to do a custom under frame pipe that will exit midway down the swingarm. similar to pbu's drag exhaust..
also hoping to track down a front brake lever, ignition switch, battery, and rear foot brake lever. or maybe make one.. atleast that way its exactly as i want it.
money is tight right now, so gotta get creative to make progress. the internal motor work i would like to do is just gonna have to wait
Swheels has the 411 on a progressive spring rate adjuster mod you can do on the front forks aswell as getting a set of #140 springs and thicker fork oil...The rear fake shock thats really just a bouncy spring needs to be changed out for an airshock with height adjust..The tires are gonna need to be changed out too...The crappy chinese tires arent as good as they lead you to beleive..The calipers need to be modded by drilling open the brake fluid passages and grinding in fluid pressure pockets behind the pistons with a dremel and the passage between the pistons needs to be opened up too for better more positive braking pressure so you can brake later to keep up good entries and exits to get good laps and stay with the pack..The wheel bearings need to be a better grade to get a better glide especially when they heat up.The chinese bearings expand so badly they get really loose when they get hot....The chain needs to be ditched for a better quality like DID or Regina..
Everything above is just needed to get your bike descently raceable plus increase your riding abilities by adding confidence.You should also put the bike on a diet and lose the battery,starter motor,left handlebar switch,wiring harness,gauges,kickstand and make a small lightweight and simple racing harness that only runs the engine..after all that youre gonna need to get your bike track ready for tech inspection...youre gonna need slider pegs for the fairings,swingarms and axles,plus I would make a front fairing brace for extra protection in case of a small wipeout and go with a set of unbreakable levers for the brake and clutch and custom make a folding shifter lever and custom make a delrin brakepedal slider guard and drill the footpeg ends out so you can add delrin slider peg ends...Most tracks are more concerned with your bike grinding into the track and wrecking the asphalt surface more than your actual body getting busted up.........Peace
when i had the brakes apart for cleaning and painting, i flushed out the passages and was wondering the best way to go about opening up the passages. the inlet passage appears to be about 1/16" as i recall. need to open em back up again.. can you recommend bit size for opening them up? between the pistons seems like it might be a lil tricky but once again i need to double check.
as for the pocket behind the pistons, would you happen to have a pic so i got an idea of how extreme to go. i plan on using motul brake fluid and picking up some new pads. the old ones show signs in the front of a stuck piston.
I was browsing through PBU's website last night looking for suspension upgrades, was wondering which spring would be better in the front.. 140# it is.. but what fork oil? and the rear shock on these bikes is a joke! better suited to a pogo stick! pbu also has an adjustable rebound/dampening/height air shock that will make its way to my door.
Theres a vid on utube by a member here by the name of Rene13 that should provide a good explaination with visuals.....The only thing I do differently than him is grind-in a fluid pocket about 1/8" deep with fluid path behind each piston with a round cutter on a dremel to get the fluid behind the piston to push it out instead of it being forced upwards from the sides.The reason why I done that was because after I modded the caliper the way in the vid after I put it back together I had the pistons stick to the caliper bottom from the assembly lube and when I installed the caliper only half the pistons came out...The pressure couldnt even pop them free so I had to take them apart and man did I have a good time using a clip remover tool with a twisting motion to break the suction to extract them..I also opened up the passage between the two pistons because the slot seems like its large enough but actually theres only a tiny hole in the center of the slot...I cant recall if he did that too but I covered it just incase...
Alot of members here use the thick motor honey for fork oil to slow the bounce and reaction...I use regular heavy duty fork oil for MX bikes..I also modded my forks with japanese bushings,seals,dustcovers plus #140 springs and added air fittings to the caps and pumped 1lb of air in each...Swheels' mod is much easier and just as effective
I also have that rear airshock you saw..its gonna have to be modded and fitted for the yellow spring from the stock fake shock because the spring the shock comes with is thin as a strand of spaghetti...Also buy the airpump.......Peace
another question.. maybe i'm searching the wrong keywords.. but, can some one tell me where the other end of the hose goes on a head breather kit?
making my own, just cant tell where to run it..
didnt get much done on the bike this weekend other than some detail stuff. got my cateye and x1 ready to sell though.. need some money to put towards the x15.
Yo Oldschool! Can you please tell me the place or site where i can get new x-18 fairings? And by any chance is there a place i can buy some of the old fairings? Thank you so much, appreciate it!
another question.. maybe i'm searching the wrong keywords.. but, can some one tell me where the other end of the hose goes on a head breather kit?
making my own, just cant tell where to run it..
didnt get much done on the bike this weekend other than some detail stuff. got my cateye and x1 ready to sell though.. need some money to put towards the x15.
I run the hose upwards alongside the fueltank over the battery tray and it gets tee'd into the rear evac port hose and ran around up over the battery tray on the opposite side towards the back of the new hp foam airfilter on my X-18 stuntbike...My filter had a bunch of heart shaped openings with mesh screening...I popped out a screen and stuck in a brass barb with washers and a jambnut to hold it in...On my X-15 I ran it to a brass barb in the velocity stack through the foam airfilter....
If you plan on racing you will also need to build a small PVC catch can
Thanks for all the help so far! Cam2, your a genius!
well i couldnt find the tutorial video on youtube.. so i have my calipers apart, and currently in the middle of modifying the passages. so far so good.. went the next size up in standard bits to drill it out with.
