Just got a freebie from my guy...has anyone tested or got one of thse heads yet.Its made for the big bore.Measured it out and is around 2.5mm shorter than the stock head.it got a small boost port but the transfer ports are smaller than a reg head.Was debating on installing it on my bike or selling it new.But i`d really like to know the result if anyone had tested the same one out yet.
You'd be a fool not to insall that kit! I'll never run a stock cag engine ever again. If you want PM me and I'll tell you the real info about these kits and what you need to really make them work.
1shot1kill, been really busy lately sorry I haven't gotten back to you yet, Pm again if you still have some questions.
That head kit is great but you need to do something with that boost port. It you look closely that boost port is not even as high as the stock transfer ports. That need work but the kit works very well!!! And a 44mm will make more power than a 40mm kit! Try something like this, it works!!!
He actually has a container coming in with the new watrcooled bikes and these heads,so selling it doesnt really bother me(Extra money in my pocket).I can get them from him anytime.Plus the stuff he has coming in comes with everything:rod,piston,wristpin,bearing etc.I`m debating on waiting on that so i dont have to tear the motor i have on my cag just to put this head kit on.So pretty much all i would need is a crankcase and i got tons of spare parts in a box.I just pretty much wanna know if it makes a significal amount of difference than a stock head.I cant compare it to mine because as soon as i got the bike i started porting it and changed the pipe.Managed to get 35mph out of it with a 7/68 and still has tremendous amount of torque.You guys fill me in the comparison before and after installing it.Thanks!!!
Ok, due to the overwhelming amount of PM's I recieved about this I will just post some info here instead of trying to respond to everyone seperately. The head kits are not for everyone, they do take some knowledge about engines, some tools and machines that not everyone has access to, and the abilty to tune an engine properly if you want to see the true results of these kits in combination with the correct recipie of other parts. I would not recomend a head kit ton anyone that couldn't and has not completely torn down their entire engine to the last ball bearing and nut and bolt. If you have problems tuning a carb or a clutch, if you think that changing spark plugs and their gap will add +5hp, or if you think running NOS in a Whip-it canister to your pb is cool then you need not apply.
1st thing's first, decide what cc you want to run, doesn't matter to me, I've seen both work perfect and I've seen a 40mm spank a 44mm and I've seen a 44mm spank a 40mm, it's all about the setup. Pick the headkit that you feel will work best for your needs. Despite what you have heard from people. The "Main" objective of the head kit is not to increase rpms, but is instead to increase power. The power is directly proportional to the CR(compression ratio). The addition of RPMs comes strictly from changing port durations if you choose to (and why wouldn't you?). The easiest way to do this is by adding a base spacer of 2mm. Don't forget to add your base gasket betweent the case and the spacer and between the spacer and the cylinder. That makes for a total of a 3mm lift in duration (for a standard crank and rod, a FCC is different). Set your squish to 0.50mm, any less than this and on a 80* day turning +14,000 rpms for longer than 5 minutes you will stick your piston into the head (been there, done that).
Ok, you got the head kit installed and setup, you need to flow more air and fuel both in and out of the engine. You NEED a 4 petal reed cage and you NEED a highflow high powered exhaust. For the reed cage, I like the BadAzz/IP2 cage, it outflows the compt. But they all will work wonders, choose the one you like. As for exhausts, the only ones I can reccomend first hand are: 1. modding the stock pipe (will work great but it's still made of $hitty metal) 2. IP2 (the cheapest alternative, this pipe has amazing top end, but for you guys who know how to tune, it will provide amazing lowend as well) 3. polini 4.2 or 6.2 race pipe (this is the ultimate in race pipes for a cag, it's for the experience engine builder(and rider) only)
The last few thing you need to do you have probably already done if you know what the hell is going on here. You need to: 1. either do some serious porting and jetting on your stock carb, or add an huge aftermarket carb in the range of 15-19mm bore. Once again, if you're an engine builder, just hog out your stock one, add a washer to the tapered needle (or cut a 6th slot) add and +80 something jet and you're good. 2. Either get some 1.5s or an adj clutch. You need to have that clutch engaging as high as you can get and that's hard to do on a Cag clutch so... 3. Order some aluminum clutch arms from Chris at BadAzzToyz and why not have them reshoed in Kevlar while your at it. He's the only one "I" know that sells them. These will lighten your clutch emensely thus raising the engagement point.
Now I don't know who was whinning and crying about their head kit burning a hole in their piston, but let me tell you that it had nothing to do with the head kit and everything to do with spark plug and fuel choice. If you don't understand these previously cover topics by now then don't bother with the head kit and stick to your stock bike. I'm sick of reading about people installing performance parts and whinning b/c their bike is slower than when it was stock. Sorry to be a D;ck but the seniors on here have been telling some of these same guys over and over what works and what doesn't. That reminds me of one last thing. Boost ports: don't make them unless you know how they work, don't make 3, 4, 5, 6, ect of them, don't make them 1 foot wide by 3 feet tall, do some real research on real boost ports done on real 2 stroke engines other than pb's. Do this and you'll see why 90% of the boost ports on this site are nothing but jokes and a burt ring waiting to happen.
So fet a head kit, a 4 petal reed cage, a race pipe, clutch setup, ported race carb, and a balanced FCC if you want it. Oops, did I forget to cover the FCC in my post?
Later
Beware the Devil bikes....
Last edited by Ritchey79 : 04-13-2005 at 12:54 PM.
Now this is something WORTHWHILE for people to read. Great job again Ritchey. I used to make long worthwhile posts like this...I think Ritchey is lobbying for a staff position. LOL! j/k bro.
Ritchey, I will make this a sticky as well as some other great posts you have made, in the near future. Keep an eye out for them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritchey79
Ok, due to the overwhelming amount of PM's I recieved about this I will just post some info here instead of trying to respond to everyone seperately. The head kits are not for everyone, they do take some knowledge about engines, some tools and machines that not everyone has access to, and the abilty to tune an engine properly if you want to see the true results of these kits in combination with the correct recipie of other parts. I would not recomend a head kit ton anyone that couldn't and has not completely torn down their entire engine to the last ball bearing and nut and bolt. If you have problems tuning a carb or a clutch, if you think that changing spark plugs and their gap will add +5hp, or if you think running NOS in a Whip-it canister to your pb is cool then you need not apply.
1st thing's first, decide what cc you want to run, doesn't matter to me, I've seen both work perfect and I've seen a 40mm spank a 44mm and I've seen a 44mm spank a 40mm, it's all about the setup. Pick the headkit that you feel will work best for your needs. Despite what you have heard from people. The "Main" objective of the head kit is not to increase rpms, but is instead to increase power. The power is directly proportional to the CR(compression ratio). The addition of RPMs comes strictly from changing port durations if you choose to (and why wouldn't you?). The easiest way to do this is by adding a base spacer of 2mm. Don't forget to add your base gasket betweent the case and the spacer and between the spacer and the cylinder. That makes for a total of a 3mm lift in duration (for a standard crank and rod, a FCC is different). Set your squish to 0.50mm, any less than this and on a 80* day turning +14,000 rpms for longer than 5 minutes you will stick your piston into the head (been there, done that).
Ok, you got the head kit installed and setup, you need to flow more air and fuel both in and out of the engine. You NEED a 4 petal reed cage and you NEED a highflow high powered exhaust. For the reed cage, I like the BadAzz/IP2 cage, it outflows the compt. But they all will work wonders, choose the one you like. As for exhausts, the only ones I can reccomend first hand are: 1. modding the stock pipe (will work great but it's still made of $hitty metal) 2. IP2 (the cheapest alternative, this pipe has amazing top end, but for you guys who know how to tune, it will provide amazing lowend as well) 3. polini 4.2 or 6.2 race pipe (this is the ultimate in race pipes for a cag, it's for the experience engine builder(and rider) only)
The last few thing you need to do you have probably already done if you know what the hell is going on here. You need to: 1. either do some serious porting and jetting on your stock carb, or add an huge aftermarket carb in the range of 15-19mm bore. Once again, if you're an engine builder, just hog out your stock one, add a washer to the tapered needle (or cut a 6th slot) add and +80 something jet and you're good. 2. Either get some 1.5s or an adj clutch. You need to have that clutch engaging as high as you can get and that's hard to do on a Cag clutch so... 3. Order some aluminum clutch arms from Chris at BadAzzToyz and why not have them reshoed in Kevlar while your at it. He's the only one "I" know that sells them. These will lighten your clutch emensely thus raising the engagement point.
Now I don't know who was whinning and crying about their head kit burning a hole in their piston, but let me tell you that it had nothing to do with the head kit and everything to do with spark plug and fuel choice. If you don't understand these previously cover topics by now then don't bother with the head kit and stick to your stock bike. I'm sick of reading about people installing performance parts and whinning b/c their bike is slower than when it was stock. Sorry to be a D;ck but the seniors on here have been telling some of these same guys over and over what works and what doesn't. That reminds me of one last thing. Boost ports: don't make them unless you know how they work, don't make 3, 4, 5, 6, ect of them, don't make them 1 foot wide by 3 feet tall, do some real research on real boost ports done on real 2 stroke engines other than pb's. Do this and you'll see why 90% of the boost ports on this site are nothing but jokes and a burt ring waiting to happen.
So fet a head kit, a 4 petal reed cage, a race pipe, clutch setup, ported race carb, and a balanced FCC if you want it. Oops, did I forget to cover the FCC in my post?
most of that post is what we leared over the weekend at the track....and cutting cylinders with a miter saw and a belt sander
and the light clutch arms.....well....any of u that have lucky 7s....u will see that they are steel.....any of u that have 1st gen cags or half fairing cags will notice that u have aluminum clutch arms......ritchey was wonderin why my bike engaged higher than his and we were like....oh yeah....my arms are aluminum.....my bike engages about 1,000 rpm higher just cause they are aluminum
sup chitown hustler, the big bore kits look like they need a lil more work than our last project. i thinbk you should put yoor old motor back together and i will test it out for you this wednesday night.
waiting for more responce on the new banshe to advise about the new sales. i will keep you informed asap!..............L8S.........jokeman
I`m gonna do something with the reeds so it should run better.I`ll let you run it weds. to see what happens....Low end...how much did i get the C1 by?
Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjoker
sup chitown hustler, the big bore kits look like they need a lil more work than our last project. i thinbk you should put yoor old motor back together and i will test it out for you this wednesday night.
waiting for more responce on the new banshe to advise about the new sales. i will keep you informed asap!..............L8S.........jokeman
new news on banshee to be released, i will let you know asap. i will be running your big bore wednesday night to see if it is as good as your old engine set-up.........L8S........joker
I was thinking of letting this lady ride it for me...what do you think?
Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjoker
new news on banshee to be released, i will let you know asap. i will be running your big bore wednesday night to see if it is as good as your old engine set-up.........L8S........joker
yo george! 
