Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes

Go Back   Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes > Pocketbike Tech Talk > Air Cooled Pocketbikes
Forum Home PBP Store Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts Mark Forums Read About Us
Pocketbike Pictures Pocketbike Classifieds Pocketbikes for Sale Member Map PBP Arcade Mark Forums Read

Pocketbike Forum
Site Sponsors



Top 10 Threads
Post up pics of your Cag...
Stock pipe mod
39 & 47cc CAG FAQ <-- READ TO AVOID PROBLEMS!
Boost Bottle?
NOS on my bike
Added a boost port tonight *pics*
Whats the fastest your bike ever went?
Port timing and size (area)
110cc, 4 stroke, 4 speed pocketbike!!!
Newbies, Read If You Want To Know What Is The Good Stuff....

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-13-2004   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
Can't remove pinion gear


Background: I noticed that the chain tension varied greatly as I turn the rear wheel by hand. Replaced one of the rear bearings, the one that looked like it was shot (the other looked good), but that didn't fix the chain tension problem. Took off the clutch housing and spun the clutch by hand. The drum spins straight and quite freely. The pinion wobbles. I figure it's either bent or it was crossthreaded at the factory.

I tried unscrewing the pinion, but so far haven't been able to. I clamped the pinion in the vice and tried to turn the drum using heavy-duty needle nose pliers through the oval openings, but it just doesn't budge. I tried heating up the drum with a torch. Nothing. At this point I have applied all the force that I'm capable of and am beginning to think that the pinion is simply cross-threaded.

Any ideas/advice? Replace the whole clutch housing?

pickawinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2004   #2
PBP SENIOR MEMBER
 
eaterofdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Age: 38
Posts: 348
I posted some instruction for removing the pinion for someone else here:

7 or 8 front pinion?

It will give you a lot more leverage. There are also instructions for taking the whole thing apart if you search. Pinions are installed with a primitive locktite, so heat it just before you try to remove it.

Did you check your rear sprocket? It can get off center and cause the problem you describe.
eaterofdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2004   #3
Senior Member
 
SUX2BU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Age: 28
Posts: 736
It is NEVER the front pinion. It is always the rear sprocket. To verify this spin the wheell untill it gets tight. then put a sticker on the sprocket twards the top. now everytime it gets tight the sticker will be in the same spot. if it was the pinion it would get tight and loose TEN trimes with one rear wheel spin.

Your welcome.
SUX2BU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2004   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by SUX2BU
It is NEVER the front pinion. It is always the rear sprocket. To verify this spin the wheell untill it gets tight. then put a sticker on the sprocket twards the top. now everytime it gets tight the sticker will be in the same spot. if it was the pinion it would get tight and loose TEN trimes with one rear wheel spin.

Your welcome.
What you say makes perfect sense, however... After I took off the chain and spun the clutch drum by hand I can see the pinion gear wobble a little (enough to be noticeable with the naked eye). Then I spun the rear wheel and could see the rear sprocket stay very steady - no wobble at all. Now this is of course without any chain tension on it. Could it be that the variance in chain tension be attributed to the bent pinion gear and a twisted chain (however the chain off the bike looks fine). Again, the rear sprocket looks good, the wheel bearings look good. What else can it be?

Thanks for all the advice.
pickawinner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2004   #5
Senior Member
 
SUX2BU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Age: 28
Posts: 736
Try the sticker thing, really it is the rear sprocket. The rear sprocket doesn't have to be off by alot to cause this. and the front pinion does have to be off by alot to cause this. a little noticable wobble in the pinion is normal.
SUX2BU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2005   #6
Junior Member
 
honda_racer92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Age: 47
Posts: 21
Wink Pinion removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by pickawinner
Background: I noticed that the chain tension varied greatly as I turn the rear wheel by hand. Replaced one of the rear bearings, the one that looked like it was shot (the other looked good), but that didn't fix the chain tension problem. Took off the clutch housing and spun the clutch by hand. The drum spins straight and quite freely. The pinion wobbles. I figure it's either bent or it was crossthreaded at the factory.

I tried unscrewing the pinion, but so far haven't been able to. I clamped the pinion in the vice and tried to turn the drum using heavy-duty needle nose pliers through the oval openings, but it just doesn't budge. I tried heating up the drum with a torch. Nothing. At this point I have applied all the force that I'm capable of and am beginning to think that the pinion is simply cross-threaded.

Any ideas/advice? Replace the whole clutch housing?
When they put it together from the factory they used some heavy duty locktite. Mine wouldn't even come off even with heat! So I got ****ed off and took a really big pair of pliers and wrenched as hard as I could, guess what it came right off weird. Of course I ruined the 6 tooth but it didn't matter because I was going to replace it any way with a 7. Then I bought another stock clutch bell with a 6 tooth sprocket in case I wanted that size later in life. Now I have what ever I need!
Hope this helps!!!!
honda_racer92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2005   #7
PBP RACER
 
Join Date: May 2005
Age: 37
Posts: 123
To ewerybody; I had my pinion problem to but the prob. was that the pinion was welded on the inside of the clutch drum. Yes it was punktured twice with MIG welder! I have had a hard time grinding that two little welds off. Howewer there was no loctite on the thread of a pinion. Hope this helps you guys.
r1replica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2005   #8
PBP SENIOR MEMBER
 
hayabusa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Age: 35
Posts: 552
not sure why this old thread got brought up again...? lol a simular thread about pinion gears was made a few days ago with some helpful hints. FOUND BY CLICKING HERE!

Quote:
Originally Posted by honda_racer92
When they put it together from the factory they used some heavy duty locktite. Mine wouldn't even come off even with heat! So I got ****ed off and took a really big pair of pliers and wrenched as hard as I could, guess what it came right off weird. Of course I ruined the 6 tooth but it didn't matter because I was going to replace it any way with a 7. Then I bought another stock clutch bell with a 6 tooth sprocket in case I wanted that size later in life. Now I have what ever I need!
Hope this helps!!!!
the heavy duty locktite you refer to is the white epoxy bond. pliers onto a 6t WILL damage the teeth of the pinion gear! if you used the gator grips I mentioned in the other post about removing pinion gears, this would have not happened!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by r1replica
To ewerybody; I had my pinion problem to but the prob. was that the pinion was welded on the inside of the clutch drum. Yes it was punktured twice with MIG welder! I have had a hard time grinding that two little welds off. Howewer there was no loctite on the thread of a pinion. Hope this helps you guys.
yes a few stock clutch bells do come welded at times. I came through a few "yomer" made cags that had welded clutch bells that I sold before. if the pinion needed to be changed, you would either have to buy another clutch bell housing and pinion or grind down the spot welds like you've mentioned.
hayabusa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2005   #9
Member
 
harix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Age: 38
Posts: 45
Removing so easy with 6 point socket and an impact gun. If you don't have all that, take it to a auto shop, they will do it for free. 3 seconds.
harix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2005   #10
PBP SENIOR MEMBER
 
hayabusa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Age: 35
Posts: 552
Quote:
Originally Posted by harix
Removing so easy with 6 point socket and an impact gun. If you don't have all that, take it to a auto shop, they will do it for free. 3 seconds.
true, impact gun is much easier but to bring your compressor to a track would be a hassle. even if you had one of them electric impact guns, it isn't easy finding an outlet sometimes...? I fit what ever I can in my tool box for thoes days in the pits when I don't have access to my garage power tools.
hayabusa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Pocketbike Forums Replies Last Post
How-to change out your front pinion snowboardgeek1 Air Cooled Pocketbike How-To's 3 11-30-2009 09:04 PM
5th gear WOT engine stopping? barryallen Derbi / Metrakit / NSR50R / YSR 5 04-14-2005 08:22 AM
easy pinion gear replacement ashes Air Cooled Pocketbikes 1 04-05-2005 10:09 PM
12:1 gear ratio hayabusa Air Cooled Pocketbikes 2 02-06-2005 01:20 PM
How to remove the my pinion gear. JC24-7 Air Cooled Pocketbikes 3 10-14-2004 04:36 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.1.0

Copyright © 2006 - 2008 Pocket Bike Forums | About Pocket Bike Forums | Advertising Opportunities | Legal | A member of the Crowdgather Forum Community

Style design by Leo

Page generated in 0.26746 seconds with 45 queries