We now have complete head kits available with cylinder machined for the head shell. We currently have the 40mm standard bore cylinders available with the 44mm big bore heads kits coming soon.
Complete head kit with 40mm bore cylinder, head shell, dome of choice(13, 15, or 17:1), gaskets, hardware, and spark plug is only $119.95.
The complete 44mm big bore head kit will only be $159.95 when released. We are just waiting on delivery of the cylinders so that we can machine them.
Both the 40mm and 44mm head kits use the same billet head shell but with different domes and copper head gaskets.
How are these going to compare to the likes of a PBU or PSWS headkit besides a lower price???
THE FIRST HEAD KITS ADA CAME OUT WITH FOR 47'S HAD A MANIFOLD
THAT DIDN'T FIT. ADA MAKES ALOT OF GOOD STUFF BUT THEY CAME INTO THE
POCKETBIKE GAME REAL LATE.
PBU IS HAVING A LOVE AFFAIR WITH CHINESE POT METAL XOXOXO
DON'T PAY FOR A NAME JUST CUS YOU HEAR IT ALOT.....
We now have complete head kits available with cylinder machined for the head shell. We currently have the 40mm standard bore cylinders available with the 44mm big bore heads kits coming soon.
Complete head kit with 40mm bore cylinder, head shell, dome of choice(13, 15, or 17:1), gaskets, hardware, and spark plug is only $119.95.
The complete 44mm big bore head kit will only be $159.95 when released. We are just waiting on delivery of the cylinders so that we can machine them.
Both the 40mm and 44mm head kits use the same billet head shell but with different domes and copper head gaskets.
I highly recommend the ADA kit. I installed their head (with 13:1 dome) on a cylinder I turned myself. It runs extremely well. It's the first real upgrade worth doing on any bike - it makes any future upgrades work even better.
I highly recommend the ADA kit. I installed their head (with 13:1 dome) on a cylinder I turned myself. It runs extremely well. It's the first real upgrade worth doing on any bike - it makes any future upgrades work even better.
I highly recommend the ADA kit. I installed their head (with 13:1 dome) on a cylinder I turned myself. It runs extremely well. It's the first real upgrade worth doing on any bike - it makes any future upgrades work even better.
ADA, do your kits include any base gasket cylinder spacers to adjust the port t/a? And if so are your heads turned to the correct dimensions for proper squish when running the cylinder spacers or will the spacers be optional? Have you experimented with cylinder spacers and what were your results?
I guess if somone wanted a bit more mojo they could add another base gasked and turf the head gasket. Or make a thin head gasket out of sheet copper to get the squish back. Even a change of 0.5mm in cylinder height can make an impact. I'd also throw the allen bolts and use studs, loctite them in and forget them. Also they use a crazy plug cmr7h, i couldn't even get them from NGK, i used a Ducatic plug and 3 washers! I should also mention the Ducati plug was factory gapped @ 0.029", my engine kept breaking down at this gap but at 0022" it was much sweeter, always check gaps.
I'll try to get some pictures - tomorrow. Short daylight hours are a drag.....
I don't know about you but I've got 2" of snow on the ground and the roads are solid ice. I just reset my squish to .5mm on the BAT-Headkit. Took it out side and did a burnout all the way up to 40mph!!!!! I think I crapped my pants but I'm not sure b/c if I did it was frozen! Oh yeah, it was on 1 wheel most of the time the back wheel was trying to spin!
In addition to the head, it has a 3.2mm/.125" base spacer, offset bored carb, and that's about it for the engine. It makes far more power everywhere - and the power increases go up as it revs. It's a rocket compared to the stock bike. And it finally sounds (and accelerates and revs) like a race bike rather than a suburban yard implement. And that's with the stock pipe, no big bore or stroker crank, no boost port, stock reeds, stock aircleaner, no rocket key, etc... The only porting was lowering the piston side of the exhaust port to match the edge of the piston at BDC. And I trimmed the big flap off the spark plug boot.
There's more power to be found. But in the mean time, it's finally fun to ride.
Oh, yes - the carb. I made a fixture for boring it out to 14mm - but it raises the roof of the carb by 2+mm - and the floor is intact. No big gaps on either side of the slide, either. I had to shorten the slide to get it to open all the way. The intake manifold was matched but not hogged out. It's running a "71.5" jet and the stock (yes) needle in the middle position. There is a noticable difference in that last 10% of throttle opening. It idles great and starts on the first/second pull. There are no dead spots anywhere at any RPM. I would not trade it for any other PB carb out there.
Sorry I don't have any tach numbers - if you're in the Denver area, I'll gladly show it.
All of the mods were machined by: me. If there's a demand for the base spacers, chopped cylinders, or offset bored carbs.....
...And it finally sounds (and accelerates and revs) like a race bike rather than a suburban yard implement...
lol, you funny
Offset bored carb huh? I had a carby on an enduro bike once that had an upside down D shaped bore, it was wide up top and skinny down the bottom, magic carb, got pinched with the bike though
Dude, where's my bike?..where's your bike dude?..dude, where's my bike?..
Sometimes You're Pay'in For The Name 
