ok totally off topic here but is it really that hard to type out probably vs "prolly"??????? its only two letters longer i mean come on really!! rant over
you can continure doing as you want i just cant stand even reading prolly in my head
And I thought MY coffee was a little strong this morning... its decaf time for you.... hehe. I don't mind some slang here and there. Its the script-kiddie code typing stuff that annoys me.
Ya, except there isn't really enough room to slot the mount holes which are too big already (bad for induction). So you would have to make a sliding bracket to mount the mag on. Or sliding inductor pieces under the stock magneto ones. Either way it was a bit tricky, so I just made a rocket key for now. I think mines a little tamer than most at 4-5 degrees advance.
The key itself bears no load. It's just a locating device. The tapered shaft locks the flywheel in place. Get on the web and go find yourself a printable degree wheel. Throw it into your graphics program and make it the same diameter as your flywheel. Find a good point of reference on the case (the edge of the armature leg on the coil is a good one), and find top dead center. Make a mark on the flywheel edge with the crank at TDC that lines up with the edge of the armature leg. Use the degree wheel to place marks on the flywheel at 5, 10, 15, 20 deg AFTER TDC. Leave the key out, and anchor the crank at TDC. Now you can line up one of your lines on the flywheel with the armature leg edge (or whatever other point of reference you used) and tighten it down at whatever advance line on the flywheel you want to use. Just don't let the crank turn in relation to the flywheel while you are tightening. You are, in actuality, rotating the FLYWHEEL in a CLOCKWISE direction by X number of degrees in relation to the CRANKSHAFT. I tap the flywheel onto the taper snugly with a soft mallet before I tighten the nut with a small cordless impact wrench. I don't reccomend using more that 5-6 degrees additional advance. I broke a piston pin and could hear noticable detonation at 10 additional degrees using premium pump gas. 104+ or aviation gas is an option if you want to advance it more.
I have a rocket key I don't use. 10 degrees is a HUGE advance. I would probably try it if it was 5 or 7, but 10 is probably not good for the longevity of the motor. I want Rocket Key Lite!
ok totally off topic here but is it really that hard to type out probably vs "prolly"??????? its only two letters longer i mean come on really!! rant over
you can continure doing as you want i just cant stand even reading prolly in my head
the irony of this statement is that your sig says "biaatch". last time i checked the 2 extra "a" weren't included in the spelling of the word b*tch.
i was thinking of making the stock metal reed stiffer by taking an extra one, or even two and trim ~2mm all around the edges so it sits slightly inside the bottom stock reed. also, stiple the insides of each facing reed so you can apply jbweld to adhere the two/three reeds to make it stiffer (like peanut butter between two buns). my theory is that the doubling, or tripling of stock reeds might be stiff enough to improve over stock performance...and the tapering effect of making the upper reed smaller than the stock sealing one is that it doesn't effect the flow of air/fuel as much since it's only one metal reed thick at the sealing edge. sometimes i think the flat edge of a thick c/f or f/g reed might somehow affect the flow of air/fuel...and what happens if someone took a dremel or file and bevel/taper the edge so it's thinner and helps airflow? you think it will work?
The sliding magneto bracket would be awesome if you could get it to stay close enough to the flywheel throughout the whole range, the trick would be to make it like spring loaded or something so that it takes out the timing advance as you reach top rpms.
In 1946 H.D. had a spark advance/retard built into its Panhead. The left grip, would turn just like the throttle side grip did, and advance the distributor. In other words, the timing could be advanced or retarded while the rider was in motion...Food for thought. Keep it uprite. This message was approved by BigBone57, future President of CenCal-PBklub. And remember to get out and vote.....
Hey I'm new, but thought i'd put in my shade tree mod, i used my original
reeds out of my quad, used the original cag reeds as a template. I just cut them down with sissors, drilled the holes. Then using the same sissors i cut the original reeds down and used them as the backer/stiffiner(removed about a half inch). they work great, it accelerates so smooth, and idles better than ever. i have great all around power.
[QUOTE=ScooterWiz]The key itself bears no load. It's just a locating device. The tapered shaft locks the flywheel in place. Get on the web and go find yourself a printable degree wheel. Throw it into your graphics program and
ScooterWiz[/quote]
Havent done it to my pb but have done it years ago to my ped. 10 degrees is a lot. I used the same tech and it worked great. You'll notice a diff. This is a great post.
Remove the base gasket for more compression. Use hi-temp silicone instead. Not home made but cheap!
Two things here -
I have been doing this for a while, but not without first checking the squish band clearance. The QC is terrible on these motors. Both the cag's and the Mitsubishi clones. I look for .020 as a minimum. Average base gasket thickness is also .020. If you have less than .040 to start off with, then you risk piston/head contact. Not good. I ran across a Mitsu clone the other day that had piston/head contact after removing the gasket. Check the squish all the way around the piston/cylinder. The cylinder's vary a lot in quality, and combustion chamber shape/finish runs the gamut, based on the casting foundry. Use soft solder thru the plug hole, shove it in in as many directions as you have the patience for, bring the piston up past TDC, and measure the thickness of the solder where the piston flattened it. The SMALLEST number you come up with is where it hits first.
The other thing was that without a gasket, you are relying completely on the sealant to prevent one of those nasty crankcase air leaks. Remember? the ones that suck air into the crankcase and make the engine run lean? And seize? Yuck. Clean the surfaces of the crankcase and the bottom of the cylinder until they are spotless (without gouging them), and remove any burrs with a small, flat file. Use a fast-evaporating solvent (like B-12 or other good carb spray) and a clean cloth to make sure they are dry and oil free. Use Yamabond 4 (or it's equivilent)(but then, I don't think it has an equivilent) and let it sit OVERNIGHT before you crank it.
I modded my stock pipe and driled a bunch of whole in the stock ait box for more flow, Ive trying to find away to put a real filter on it but i cant because my suspension is right there like 2mm away from the air box
I modded my stock pipe and driled a bunch of whole in the stock ait box for more flow, Ive trying to find away to put a real filter on it but i cant because my suspension is right there like 2mm away from the air box
The key itself bears no load. It's just a locating device. The tapered shaft locks the flywheel in place. Get on the web and go find yourself a printable degree wheel. Throw it into your graphics program and make it the same diameter as your flywheel. Find a good point of reference on the case (the edge of the armature leg on the coil is a good one), and find top dead center. Make a mark on the flywheel edge with the crank at TDC that lines up with the edge of the armature leg. Use the degree wheel to place marks on the flywheel at 5, 10, 15, 20 deg AFTER TDC. Leave the key out, and anchor the crank at TDC. Now you can line up one of your lines on the flywheel with the armature leg edge (or whatever other point of reference you used) and tighten it down at whatever advance line on the flywheel you want to use. Just don't let the crank turn in relation to the flywheel while you are tightening. You are, in actuality, rotating the FLYWHEEL in a CLOCKWISE direction by X number of degrees in relation to the CRANKSHAFT. I tap the flywheel onto the taper snugly with a soft mallet before I tighten the nut with a small cordless impact wrench. I don't reccomend using more that 5-6 degrees additional advance. I broke a piston pin and could hear noticable detonation at 10 additional degrees using premium pump gas. 104+ or aviation gas is an option if you want to advance it more.
ScooterWiz
i used to race go-carts and work at the motor shop. this is how we put our fly wheels on and they never moved. one step that he left out as before you do this go to a auto parts store and get some valve lapping compound. dab a little on the taper of the crank and put the fly wheel on it and work it back and forth. some times this takes quite a bit of time but you will know when you are done when you can pull the fly wheel off and wipe the compound off and there is a uniform gray on the taper. that way you know that the taper on the crank and in the fly wheel is the same so you get the most contact there to hold things in place.
Keep it up and you might be censored, too, Razor. There's a lot of stuff that this site censors, because there are people who may be offended. Dem's da rules, dude .....
Rocket Key-less 
beef its whats for dinner.... 
