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Old 02-18-2005   #1
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No over rev


on my custom reed motor it runs good in the mid range with decent low end but when i try to rev it out it doesnt want to rev, and im not even hitting 10,000 rpm loaded ne ideas?

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Old 02-18-2005   #2
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"custom reed motor" is a very vague description, what pipe, carb, reed, porting, compression and igniton are you running?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatrudoing25
on my custom reed motor it runs good in the mid range with decent low end but when i try to rev it out it doesnt want to rev, and im not even hitting 10,000 rpm loaded ne ideas?
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Old 02-18-2005   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah
"custom reed motor" is a very vague description, what pipe, carb, reed, porting, compression and igniton are you running?
40mm head with a single boost port, custom pipe, wt-257 carb, c1 reed cage mounted on the case under the cyliner stock ignition, rockit key, lighetend flywheel, running on 108 octane
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Old 02-18-2005   #4
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Try it without the rocket key, try the stock key...I hear those rocket keys play with your motors....
John
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Old 02-18-2005   #5
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I'd have to agree with day-tone-a, advancing the timing effects over rev. The other problem would be the pipe, do you have any pipe dimensions? i have found smaller diffuser angles will help these engines rev, i run a half angle of 7 degrees on mine and have a similar setup as you except for the reed location, stock pipes are ~10degrees which is poo-poo. What exhaust duration, compression and reed thickness material are you using?
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Old 02-18-2005   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah
I'd have to agree with day-tone-a, advancing the timing effects over rev. The other problem would be the pipe, do you have any pipe dimensions? i have found smaller diffuser angles will help these engines rev, i run a half angle of 7 degrees on mine and have a similar setup as you except for the reed location, stock pipes are ~10degrees which is poo-poo. What exhaust duration, compression and reed thickness material are you using?
its stock compression what ever that may be the reeds are the steel reeds that come with the b1 reed cage the pipe dimetions are as follows

header 22.2mm diameter 69.6 length
diffuser 1 22.2mm-48.8mm 285.4mm length
diffuser 2 48.8mm-72.2mm 97.5mm length
belly 72.2mm 76.59 length
baffle 72.2mm-15mm 167.1 length

with ~150o exhaust duration
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Old 02-18-2005   #7
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check your squish clearance.
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Old 02-18-2005   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan
check your squish clearance.
at about .020"
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Old 02-18-2005   #9
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well, thats not your problem then. do you have a pic of the relocated reed box/valve?
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Old 02-18-2005   #10
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Your reeds could be to soft witch will kill your top end... Try thicker reeds.
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Old 02-18-2005   #11
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http://www.pocketbikeplanet.com/atta...achmentid=9120 a pic on the new reed location, yea i think im going to get some .5 fiberglass reeds
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Old 02-18-2005   #12
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Ah , i get confused everytime someone says head, to me it's a cylinder with an intergrated combustion chamber, a head is something that sits on top of a cylinder. I was thinking you had a domed head like ada with a different compression ratio, it's a must have when running a big reed. Think about it, what's the point of allowing more mixture into an engine if the standard combustion chamber can't burn it properly, The stock combustion chamber is a big pile of crud, a centre domed head will make more mojo everywhere, rev quicker, sound better and run cooler.

But on to the pipe...

Tapered header angle, is tan-1((48.8-22.2)/2) / 285.4 = 2.67 degrees
diffuser ang, is 6.84 degrees
baffle ang, 9.71 degrees
stinger length?
stinger id?
Tuned length is ~ 23(export depth)+69.9+285.4+97.5+76.59+(167.1/2) = 635.94mm
with 150 ex duration that works out to ~ (150x42545)/635.94 = 10,035 rpm and that's what you are getting right?. The pipe is pretty good, in fact too good, how did you measure the inside diameter down to 0.01mm, who made it, who is your daddy and what does he do?
You have to raise the exhaust port, 150 is poopoo, i'm running 172 and have more bottom end than non central domed BBK newbies. Get an ADA dome and cap, run a ~2mm spacer and that will bring your duration up to ~165 and increase transfer and exhaust area. Sell your timing key to a newbie, buy some fibre reeds and it should start working properly. Run a stinger 100 long and 14mm id, the silncer shoul be a few mm larger in id.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatrudoing25
its stock compression what ever that may be the reeds are the steel reeds that come with the b1 reed cage the pipe dimetions are as follows

header 22.2mm diameter 69.6 length
diffuser 1 22.2mm-48.8mm 285.4mm length
diffuser 2 48.8mm-72.2mm 97.5mm length
belly 72.2mm 76.59 length
baffle 72.2mm-15mm 167.1 length

with ~150o exhaust duration
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Old 02-18-2005   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah
Ah , i get confused everytime someone says head, to me it's a cylinder with an intergrated combustion chamber, a head is something that sits on top of a cylinder. I was thinking you had a domed head like ada with a different compression ratio, it's a must have when running a big reed. Think about it, what's the point of allowing more mixture into an engine if the standard combustion chamber can't burn it properly, The stock combustion chamber is a big pile of crud, a centre domed head will make more mojo everywhere, rev quicker, sound better and run cooler.

But on to the pipe...

Tapered header angle, is tan-1((48.8-22.2)/2) / 285.4 = 2.67 degrees
diffuser ang, is 6.84 degrees
baffle ang, 9.71 degrees
stinger length?
stinger id?
Tuned length is ~ 23(export depth)+69.9+285.4+97.5+76.59+(167.1/2) = 635.94mm
with 150 ex duration that works out to ~ (150x42545)/635.94 = 10,035 rpm and that's what you are getting right?. The pipe is pretty good, in fact too good, how did you measure the inside diameter down to 0.01mm, who made it, who is your daddy and what does he do?
You have to raise the exhaust port, 150 is poopoo, i'm running 172 and have more bottom end than non central domed BBK newbies. Get an ADA dome and cap, run a ~2mm spacer and that will bring your duration up to ~165 and increase transfer and exhaust area. Sell your timing key to a newbie, buy some fibre reeds and it should start working properly. Run a stinger 100 long and 14mm id, the silncer shoul be a few mm larger in id.
those dimentions are what i calculated for the pipe, and there prety close to that in the actual pipe, but definaly not down to the .1 mm, i have a moped head im gana machine and machine the cylinder for ill definaly raise the cylinder 2mm, the stinger is a couple inches long, and bleeds into a can on the end and a silencer ataches to that i dont have enough space on the scooter this is on to run a longer stinger thanks blah!
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Old 02-18-2005   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah
Ah , i get confused everytime someone says head, to me it's a cylinder with an intergrated combustion chamber, a head is something that sits on top of a cylinder. I was thinking you had a domed head like ada with a different compression ratio, it's a must have when running a big reed. Think about it, what's the point of allowing more mixture into an engine if the standard combustion chamber can't burn it properly, The stock combustion chamber is a big pile of crud, a centre domed head will make more mojo everywhere, rev quicker, sound better and run cooler.

But on to the pipe...

Tapered header angle, is tan-1((48.8-22.2)/2) / 285.4 = 2.67 degrees
diffuser ang, is 6.84 degrees
baffle ang, 9.71 degrees
stinger length?
stinger id?
Tuned length is ~ 23(export depth)+69.9+285.4+97.5+76.59+(167.1/2) = 635.94mm
with 150 ex duration that works out to ~ (150x42545)/635.94 = 10,035 rpm and that's what you are getting right?. The pipe is pretty good, in fact too good, how did you measure the inside diameter down to 0.01mm, who made it, who is your daddy and what does he do?
You have to raise the exhaust port, 150 is poopoo, i'm running 172 and have more bottom end than non central domed BBK newbies. Get an ADA dome and cap, run a ~2mm spacer and that will bring your duration up to ~165 and increase transfer and exhaust area. Sell your timing key to a newbie, buy some fibre reeds and it should start working properly. Run a stinger 100 long and 14mm id, the silncer shoul be a few mm larger in id.
Yes, also raise the exhaust port 1mm or so it will help the top end from fluttering, if you have to much air flow in the intake side.
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Old 02-18-2005   #15
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i think i've seen that pic. do you have a finished pic of the project?
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Old 02-18-2005   #16
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When you machine the scooter head, may i make a suggestion, buy a $10 ADA dome and copy it's profile, apart from their silly 10mm plug it's a good shape, if it had a 14mm plug i'd probably never had machined my own though, have to thank them for that

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatrudoing25
those dimentions are what i calculated for the pipe, and there prety close to that in the actual pipe, but definaly not down to the .1 mm, i have a moped head im gana machine and machine the cylinder for ill definaly raise the cylinder 2mm, the stinger is a couple inches long, and bleeds into a can on the end and a silencer ataches to that i dont have enough space on the scooter this is on to run a longer stinger thanks blah!
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Old 02-18-2005   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blah
When you machine the scooter head, may i make a suggestion, buy a $10 ADA dome and copy it's profile, apart from their silly 10mm plug it's a good shape, if it had a 14mm plug i'd probably never had machined my own though, have to thank them for that
ill definaly consider that, the head i have is off a puch moped, big fins so should be good for cooling since i have removed every other fin on the flywheel, ill be placing a order with ada for a dome and a copper gasket very soon
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