Stock pipe mod

ok i did all the cutting myself and removed all the paint and access with a wire wheel. i didnt have a welder so i took it to the loc exaust shop. they told me i needed the bike if i wanted it right, well i refused showed em how it was set up and said follow the angle at the top of the headder pipe. so i got my pipe back, it was fine, the bracket at the back side of the frame even lined up(a little off but i still got the org bolt to fit) the only down falls were how shatty the welds were(although they were air tight) and my pipe wasnt dead on with the exaust pipe that was added, the bottem side was lined up and the top was around a 16th off, but i dont think that madderd all that much, with a little more time with the wire wheel, sandpaper and some steel wool she cleaned up nice. also to end this end this pointless ranting the sob charged me 12 bucks

I have not done the pipe mod, although I have been thinking seriously of doing so, considering all the good feedback it has been getting.

i really do advise on this i went racing last weekend and my bike so much harder and topped out way ahead of everyone i ride with.

This mod works really well but for the guys that are buying the new cags they dont have the same expansion chamber and it wont work the same as the ones with the welded cones if your expansion chamber is all one piece molded steel then your kinda out of luck unless you can make your own cones and weld it together

oh the resin on the underside of my block blackblackblack

Just did the stock pipe mod think its any good?
lol hope it works

i hate to tell you but probably not . your material in the belly of the pipe is smaller than the end cones, so not only is it smaller in diameter but now you have a ridge on the inside of the cones so you dont have smooth transition between the cones and the belly . All you can do is put it on and try it .

If not, cut out that center section, make it larger, and weld it back together again. You have to make it at least as big as the cones.

Btw, welcome to the forums.

need as less lips as possabile for the unburnt fuel to flow back into the engine, i kinda regret it my block is just a fking slop from the larger pipe

lol sites are selling these pipes for like $100

O ok! ill cut it out and try something els. Any ideas what i can use?
is it better to use pipe or role some steel plate?
Thanks you guys are a lot of help

they make exaust pipe same size i belive, or if u got acces to a roller try that

I just rolled my own it was easier to get the right size

Im redoing my belly on my stock pipe mod but then i had an idea,
what if i take a B1 copy stock pipe and mod it to fit my cag...
Has any1 done this and will it improve performance or just not work??

I was thinking the samething. The neck might be to long. But welding it is possible. I had my projet welded solid after mock up. I love not having leaks now..

Yup been there done that . and still using it today . It is a top end pipe period!!! Dont expect any lowend and midrange doesnt have much either unless your motor is built . and I dont mean just your regular bolt on stuff. you wil need porting and polishing mods and other custom mods .
It will not work well with a stock or even mildly modded motor. You will have to get pretty radical with your motor to make this pipe work well . Its big and will not fit between the frame of some cags. It works best with a 44mm piston setup If you search under some of my old posts there are pics and video of it on here and video on you tube .

Well had to redo my pipe mod but v2 looks a lot better!!
Had to do a fiends one 2.
Cant wait to bolt it on and try it!
Want to know if its better to pack the silencer or can i leave it hollow?
Dont mind the sound, just want max performance

Hey eeden01, I've experienced no noticeable changes in pwr bands, Only noise migraines,.,.if you want it packed for less noise you can use a heater filter thats cut to length of baffle and wrap 'em tight then zip tie to perforated tube, then just slip n clip! Not sure what your goal is the pipe alone, but mny other mod's prior to pipe will create more noticable performance. fyi: ratios-pinion to rear(it's obvious,.smllr in rear will hv more top end), hp clutch springs (will allow engine higher rev's prior to engage)

Or just use steel wool in there. I'm running #3 coarse steel wool in my spraycan muffler - rumbles some, but it's quieter than stock.

Right on Spy, I was gonna ^5 ya on that canister design! Dude ya better get that patent started,.,.,.haha. L8er .,..you don't rust from steel wool? No, i guess a combo of oil and the can being lined you'd be all good! rock on