2008/2007 dm replica reviews anyone?

Can only find 2 reviews from 2007 on the dm replica on the site.One good and one bad.Anyone else bought one,this year and have any comments to say?

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I didnt buy one but I rode a friends new D1 a month ago .
Heres my personal opinion .
Danny,dont take this personal. LOL
The squish is too high the bike never even hit powerband . polini bell housings will not fit this case unless you do major grinding or machining on them . the rear end was squirly I think this was the cheapo china tires that were on it . The whole bike felt unpredictable to to me as the rear end felt sloppy , too much flex for me . Im used to a rock solid GRC GP frame that doesnt flex . The fairings that came on the bike were really wavy and thin compared to a euro body. Other than that it was a nice looking bike . Buy a used DM and save yourself the troubles and hassle. there are several DMs for sale for what a new D1 will cost you and you will have a euro with a much better motor

anyone else ??

thanks for the info.Still waiting for more guys thoughts as I am deciding between this bike and a banshee.

Maybe you missed what I said .Buy a nice used euro bike for the price of a new rep . I know its nice having a "new" unmolested bike but most of the guys that have euros take care of them . I wouldnt be afraid to buy a nice euro for the same as a rep it will out last a rep and you will thank me for it later . I have a banshee and a GRC both very similar but different . I might be interested in selling the banshee .

Okay here's my review of the D1, just bought it 3 weeks ago.
The tyres definitely need to change.

The sitting posture is great! Its a midi bike so yeah. the back's a lil flexible but its not THAT BAD

The power band's in the upper rpm range so you have to play around with the clutch to get the most outta the bike

i had to do some tuning to the carb to get the best outta the bike.

As for the clutch. it doesnt bite properly, 2nd the clutch bell's like 80.3 mm
the squash setting for the bike is horrendous.

So basically a lil touch up here and there and the bike is ready to go.


Hey guys i just got some question. Due to the fact that the power is in the upper rpm range.. I set the clutch to be extremely tight. Its comes with a 3 spring clutch so i got the spring length to be set at about 22.5 for each spring from the base to the top of the spring. Is this setting alright?

the acceleration is great even with front tooth 7(original's 6) but now the thing that i'm worrying about is will this jamm up or seizes cylinder faster since its kinda like a replica from china and i'm constantly hovering the rpm at let say 8k and above. What do you guys think?

gonna have sorta a race this coming saturday and the track is pretty long so i'm scared that the engine cant take the pressure and give way suddenly

here what I suggest about the china clutch anything you read about measurements on these china clutchs throw all those readings in the trash simply because there not all the same like a zocchi, bzm or polini clutch . some may have deeper spring pockets, longer springs and differnt thickness on shoes , the best thing you could do is take your clutch apart and make sure all the springs are the same length with a set of caliper , if there not grind them down to equal lengths. these motor are made to turn tall RPMs so hovering above 8000 is no problem. I think the stock gearing on those is a 6/68 so if you have a 7 on you will be fine. just make sure your using a good synthetic 2 stroke oil. Klotz R-50 or techniplate ,motul 800 or Amsoil dominator. Do a plug chop and make sure your not too lean thats the key to getting any life out of these motors. and get rid of the MLS gasket setup . I found a guy in Australia that sells a
o ring polini type head that will work on the MLS cylinder for $36and you can get your squish down to euro specs. Thats the key to making any kind of power out of these china motors regardless if its a D1 or banshee motor

Okay so basically what you're saying is that as long as i'm using good 2T and that my carb setting is fine then there wouldnt be much of a problem right?

And as for the power and MLS gasket part would you care to explain more?
from what i know the head is already o ring type head, the bottom of the the usual paper gasket. You're suggesting that i shld change to a real polini head to get more power outta these china engine?

no no no he is saying they have a mls gasket insetd of the o ring and danny over here sels a 0 ring rep head that can be used on the standerd barral to get rid of the gasket set up
id say ditch the chinese clutch and bell and get a full bzm or zochie set up.
and dellinalty do a plug chop (go flat out and hit the kill switch and hold it untill the motor is complety off)

Okay i still dont quite understand the difference between the normal head and the one with the o ring set up. If possible someone pm me to tell me more about it? Would really appreciate it for your time and patience.

well i have considered the zocchi or bzm clutch and bell setup but its kinda on the pricey side as compared to chinese bell isnt it? and does the performance really differ that much? i mean a clutch and the bell cost close to like 300 bucks! not to mention if you wanna save your clutch you gotta buy 79 78 and 77 mm drums....

will do a plug chop later tonight and see how it goes. But i'm suspecting i'm running a lil lean. Worried about the engine going bust.

and back to topic, i think d1's engine's a 50cc polini rep so the power's there. the ridding posture is good and the turning and stuff needa lil getting use to since its a midi bike. but i say that d1's a good bike. I've tried bikes like gp3 and zpf. didnt like how the bike sits cause its way too cramped

ok the banshee runs a mls gasket set up insted of 0 rings under the head it makes setting the squish very hard. also one you use it you cant take the head off and use it again..
and no you get a bell that suits the clutch and once the pad weres down you can use thin small wasers to space the shoes out mainting the same diamiter rather than swaping bells..yes do a plug chop and make sure it isnt to lean other wise you will seize it pretty quickley also once run in it should run at about 50:1 well my bzm runs at that anyway it will be richer on 50:1 than say 35:1

oh kay. i think i get what you mean. But for the d1, under the cylinder head its 2 o ring gasket. rubber type. one big and one small
dont have whatsoever paper gasket or sort except at the base of the cylinder.

i think thats why i was trying to figure out what you guys were talking about

anyway dont have much of a choice here for me cause now i'm using 3 piece adjustable clutch so cant really put the washer on to increase the height and stuff.

But "BY RIGHT" isnt that the purpose of all those 77-79mm drums? to lengthen the lifespan of your clutch

But what's the difference between china and zocchi or bzm clutches? i mean other than less slip and better quality and such?

i mean no offence to bzm and zocchi clutch users here but i can buy like 8 china clutch with the price of 1 zocchi and bzm clutch.

i mean long term wise isnt it much cheaper to buy china clutch?

no its best to buy a better clutch trust me my banshee clutch failed on my cag! and my cag is only like 5hp and was set up correctly. and its better to do what barnsey said about using washers instead of buying 3-4 different bells thats a waste! not to mention trying to swap them to the housing would be a pain! so maybe zocchi or bzm shoes will fit your stock backing plate instead of buying the entire clutch which should save you some cash.

about your o ring set up the only way you can lower squish is to buy an ada headkit from davesmotors or the pbu trick billet headkit and use bzm made for polini gasket set and use the .1mm base gasket which is the thinnest unless your o ring cylinder is like my bro's and is best with no base gasket hondabond4 sealant instead. these things will lower your squish and create far more power then what you have now to the point where you'll be scared to ride your bike!

by the way unlike the MLS cylinders that i've found to be identical the o ring set ups are way off like standardracers o ring cylinder with no base gasket sets his piston far above the exhaust port at BDC where my bro's with no base gasket the piston still sits far below the exhaust port at BDC so no where near alike and both of these MLS cylinders i have are exactly the same! except one came stock with chamfered ports (china kid musta got bored?) so what one person might tell you to do might not be correct cuz they're not the same in your case. you'll have to find out for yourself so tear your engine down and start moddin!

I have yet to have a banshee clutch fail yet . I always make them engage at around 5500 new and ride them in and get some heat into them for a tank full then I adjust them to around 8200 and let r rip . I have never had a banshee clutch come apart or delaminate. The shoes themselves simply suck they dont grip well and build heat because of this which inturn makes them wear out faster . You gotta break in every clutch and have it adjusted properly . Hell I have seen guys delaminate $185 BZMs because they didnt get some heat in them and cure the adhesive properly .or have proper adjustment .

well thats the thing mine was adjusted right with 1 washer under each shoe for the 1mm per side of clearance for engagement and its not that the pads wore out its one pad broke in half not the shoe but the actual pad a chunk came off like half of the pad and this was on my cag! which the engagement point is around 5,000-6,000 rpm cuz the cag puts out good torque so theres no need to set it high so its not like i was abusing it and i give myself a strong push off and do my best not to slip a clutch and the only time i slipped a clutch is on the banshee coming around a corner i nailed it and it slipped like crazy.

i break in my clutches i know how to take care of a clutch which is why i dont understand why it chunked off like that? i also got an autocooling drum on my cag!!!! you would think a banshee clutch would hold up to a cag but i guess not this chinese stuff is unpredicatable just like the dell 19mm rep carbs may get a good one might not.

ive done the same to a bizeta carbonium shoe clutch too. i thought it was engaging way low but it wasnt. when i got that tach it was engaging at 9400rpm.

unless you have a tach dont even attmept to set a clutch from new IMHO. you cant do it well enough.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...e/DSC00569.jpg

i set mine with out a tach and its fine ..

yep hyzer thats basicaly what happened to the pad but this banshee clutch was on a cag and turned down low and both shoes were adjusted down to the .02 using a washer under each shoe in a 78mm auto cooling drum. think it was just time for a new clutch? but there was plenty of pad left how do you know when its time to change shoes? i figured the pad could go down almost to the metal?

yes when they start to wear think i think

whats that mean? lol

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