B1 Rep Rebuild/head-kit needed

i bought a c1 off craigslist and got duped a while ago for $100$ it turns out the guy who had it was putting 2stroke it the radiator and straight gas in the tank(and i havent really done anything to the bike other that pull the top of the head off and it looks like he used some silicone for a base gasket so im gonna take the engine apart because when i ran the bike water kept backing up the coolant bottle.
so im gonna inspect the water-pump belt and make sure its not slipping from trying to pull that 2stroke.
i need a head kit for a b1 rep does anyone have one for sale or could i use a big bore kit like this http://shop.hkmotos.com/product_info...3f26a06b5b6770
does anyone have anything to contribute to my thread like any problems that i dont spot or mods basicly anything really.

You can use the big bore kit but be warned that some case modifications may be needed to fit it, you can also just go stock for cheaper and wond need to modify anything, hit up daves motors (DDM) he should have all the stock parts you will need..

To be honest I would take the whole motor apart and check EVERYTHING, God only knows where all that oil may have ended up, but if you dont want to just make sure it is turning and the belt is not slipping..

sorry you got a lemon..

RTV type silicone as a base gasket is fine and is often used to help lower squish.. kinda a poor mans fix but it does work..

i think i will take to whole engine apart and do everything right because i dont want to be riding a problematic turd lol
and i just love the sound of the bike.

will i have to bore the engine cases?and how would i do that?
and i checked at ddm and buying everything one by one would be too expensive.
the big bore is like $45$

Nickj?Anyone?

With the big bore you may have to grind off some material inside the case so the piston and hit bdc.Then you will have to set the squish most times.Then to get the most out of the bbk a stock pipe will not get the job done or a stock 14mm dell rep carb.Run a stock head with a upgraded wrist pin bearing and be done.Try to find a c2 top end if you can.Less head aches and great performance.

so dont go with the bbk just try a stock top-end.i think im gonna take the whole engine apart and flush the engine out with an air compressor and put some good gaskets in it and see how it runs.because it stalls when i give it gas for a while then let off if i dont give it gas it cuts off so my guess is that when the water is trying to cool the engine the rings at the top of the head are bad and are letting water get to the spark plug.

by the time you're done replacing everything piece by piece you may be able to just pick up another used c1 for the same price...

anyway, start by flushing the radiator and coolant passages..use a garden hose / power washer and remove the radiator hose on the bottom of the engine so it blows out or if you're taking it apart just do it piece by piece. finish by blowing the passages out with compressed air then use distilled water to fill everything back up. Use Yamabond or similar for a gasket maker not rtv silicone.

would i be able to use yamabond on the o rings on the top of the head and how much would i apply to the base gasket and should i replace the piston rings.

no you are going to need to get new o-rings if the ones already on it are bad. if you need them i would just get the blata B1 viton O-rings from blatausa along with a new combustion chamber insert to get a good squish measurment. here are the part #'s

330.072.20 HEAD KIT/ COMBUSTION CHAMBER 33.10
971.080.00 O - RING 41 x 1.78 1.24
971.155.00 O - RING 66.4 x 1.78 1.52

if you are taking it apart and you dont mind spending the money then just get a new ring for the piston and a blata gasket set. i would also drill 2 oil holes in the piston while you have the head pulled. just get the complete gasket set it comes with o-rings, base, case & intake:

330.063.00 engine block gasket set

If anyone's been running an engine with straight gas and no oil you're gonna hafta have a real good look at the bearings, esp the big end and little end bearings, to make sure they're not fried chicken. If the rod ends have turned blue, I'm afraid you'll be singing the blues!

i can get you a brand new engine for 160 shipped..
a/c or W/C

but i like fried chicken and where would i find the bearings.and if the rod ends are blue ill have to get a new one?

i would jump on that but im buying a 4speed engine for my x7 so after i buy it and sell my auto engine ill be happy to check that out.

I have bought that big bore kit from HKMotos! nothing to major with it. I ended up boring the cyclinder mount holes out a little to get everything to line up. otherwise i was running into the problem where the piston would get stuck at BDC. got it all lined up and everything runs smooth! i haven't been able to put it to the test quite yet since it started to snow in iowa before i could get a dellorto 19mm carb for it! So i can't tell you anything about power or performance... for $45 shipped its not bad but its a $45 shipped top end what would expect from it?

ok guys its been awhile since ive been online but i had to take a rest from pocketbikes due to an injury.but im ok now and ready to get all my projects back on track
now on to tha good stuff i got the engine off of the frame and ive taken the reeds out and will be ready to fully disassemble the engine and im still deciding on which head kit to order.but ill most likely go with a modified stocker.

ok i ordered a head kit from pbu it should be here tomorrow.
and i cant get the flywheel off anyone have any suggestions/secret techniqes to gettin the flywheel and clutch off?

The Cheap route, 2 Flat Head screwdrivers and some time, Pry a little then turn, then pry a little then turn etc.

A better option is a cheap 3-Jaw Puller (Pulley, Steering wheel etc)

The best option is the blata custom pullers, but they cost big $$.

Nick.

thanks nickj
i should have some pics today if they bring my parts