So all you did was loosen the screws EXACTLY one half turn??
WOW....If I ride it, and a lot of people sart doing it and it works...Im going to do it because i remember when I had the 1.5 springs on...WOW they ****ed me off...and this is around 8K..So I have to find a way...GIVE US A REVIEW ON THE CLUTCH OR A VIDEO...HELP US OUT...
what you just said didn't make any sense - "clutch engaged at 8500 rpm the clutch took forever to start moving the bike"??
first question - how do you know it was 8500 rpm - what did you use to measure it??
I mean it was developing too much power and the clutch slipped and wouldnt go for a while now it doesnt slip and will beat my previous factory adjustment off the line easily and they come set at 8500 rpm thats how I know.
a few things a stroker means the crank rod is longer than the stock one giving it a longer stroke. Yes I am being serious about half a turn out makes a big difference. And how do you know this bike would for sure be beat in 40cc open? I am not saying it wont but I know this bike has beaten quite a few bikes and the horsepower doesnt matter completely its more the rider and the speeds arent very far off.
I mean it was developing too much power and the clutch slipped and wouldnt go for a while now it doesnt slip and will beat my previous factory adjustment off the line easily and they come set at 8500 rpm thats how I know.
oh the material on the clutch pads are not good - I've heard that before - you may want to upgrade those cheap china pads to a Blata or Bizeta pads - I'm afraid to say be ready to spend $$$$ - read up(research) on what Dr. Fer or B2OBTEC has to say..you need your clutch to engage within 8500-9000 rpm or you will never reach your bike's potential...
btw - welcome to pocketbike world ;-)
Last edited by larrymacg : 09-29-2004 at 03:00 PM.
I see. So 50cc is the cut-off line. The Elite A is a 9.2hp bike meaning it does not exceed the 10hp mark. Now if the Cagagami is 10+hp then it does. The five ports is the pending part from one club to another.
I've talked to club owners that do not let Elites run in Proddy period because they produce so much raw power and have 5 ports.
I look forward to racing anyone right about now. I haven't ridden in like a week.
Side note: My Elite 13W is coming in today! UPS BABY! 3 Day shipping...can't beat that.
Go to minimotogarage for a writeup on how to adjust your clutches.
Just turning the screw on the clutch without using some sort of calipers to measure the height of the spring, is bad. Even if the springs off by just 2-3mm, will promote uneven clutch wear. I have a polini clutch, and I should know...its happened to me.
Best way to do it, is not by using the "turn the screw evenly all around" method, but to measure each spring using digital calipers.
From the stock spring location, if you want to engage at a HIGHER RPM, you want to compress the spring, meaning, turn it clockwise and measure all the springs and make sure they're all the same exact height.
For a lower engagement point, loosen the spring.
For optimum peformance, you want the clutch to engage, approximately 1000k RPMs before you hit the pipe. If you hit the pipe around 9K, the clutch should be set at 8K. Only real way to do this, get a tach to measure it.
All of this clutch engagement talk has been discussed in detail by myself and a few others who have adjustable clutches. Do a search.
I see. So 50cc is the cut-off line. The Elite A is a 9.2hp bike meaning it does not exceed the 10hp mark. Now if the Cagagami is 10+hp then it does. The five ports is the pending part from one club to another.
I've talked to club owners that do not let Elites run in Proddy period because they produce so much raw power and have 5 ports.
I look forward to racing anyone right about now. I haven't ridden in like a week.
Side note: My Elite 13W is coming in today! UPS BABY! 3 Day shipping...can't beat that.
And how do you know this bike would for sure be beat in 40cc open? I am not saying it wont but I know this bike has beaten quite a few bikes and the horsepower doesnt matter completely its more the rider and the speeds arent very far off.
Cuz my friend raced the REAL B1 on the C1 and got his *** handed to him. Completly outclasses the C1!!!!! Have u even RACED other bikes yet? If not how can u compair it.
Eric - the main problem is the clutch pads material - even if the adjustment using a digital caliper is correct - it wont engage - this problem has been addressed before several times....
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowboardgeek1
Ok guys
Go to minimotogarage for a writeup on how to adjust your clutches.
Just turning the screw on the clutch without using some sort of calipers to measure the height of the spring, is bad. Even if the springs off by just 2-3mm, will promote uneven clutch wear. I have a polini clutch, and I should know...its happened to me.
Best way to do it, is not by using the "turn the screw evenly all around" method, but to measure each spring using digital calipers.
From the stock spring location, if you want to engage at a HIGHER RPM, you want to compress the spring, meaning, turn it clockwise and measure all the springs and make sure they're all the same exact height.
For a lower engagement point, loosen the spring.
For optimum peformance, you want the clutch to engage, approximately 1000k RPMs before you hit the pipe. If you hit the pipe around 9K, the clutch should be set at 8K. Only real way to do this, get a tach to measure it.
All of this clutch engagement talk has been discussed in detail by myself and a few others who have adjustable clutches. Do a search.
Ok I adjusted the clutch like I said and it engages alot faster than 8500 rpm and it runs a whole lot better than it did at 8500 and it does not have a problem getting to full throttle and yes I have raced another bike a 7.5 a/c grc gp and I beat the bike by far on a the straights even after I took a ride on it I dont like the feel of the turning on it.
I took a ride on it I dont like the feel of the turning on it.
Didn't u say that ur almost touchin the pegs on it.... yet u don't like turning it. Where th pegs are, the bike is almost on the flat on the ground....ur not making sense or ur posting BS.
Ok I adjusted the clutch like I said and it engages alot faster than 8500 rpm and it runs a whole lot better than it did at 8500 and it does not have a problem getting to full throttle and yes I have raced another bike a 7.5 a/c grc gp and I beat the bike by far on a the straights even after I took a ride on it I dont like the feel of the turning on it.
most likely you will not have problem with clutch even engaging at 6K because of your weight. Enjoy.
Didn't u say that ur almost touchin the pegs on it.... yet u don't like turning it. Where th pegs are, the bike is almost on the flat on the ground....ur not making sense or ur posting BS.
Wow where did that come from... why would I be making up bs I have the bike... and yes I do like the way it turns but the pegs do hit the ground if you are not careful.
I guess the best thing would be for these guys to buy new shoes then from bizeta or switch to a polini clutch. I wonder if my polini clutch would fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrymacg
Eric - the main problem is the clutch pads material - even if the adjustment using a digital caliper is correct - it wont engage - this problem has been addressed before several times....
is anyone planning on racing the B1 clones or are they parking lot bound????
My bike doesn't touch pulic streets or parking lots. Not worth it here in cali since cops are ****s and feel they can impound ur bikes. I ride only at the tracks, I will be racing in ******** and SDminimoto races. The Next ******** race is on the 16th, with the SDMM race on the 30th. MIght have another race on Nov 6th at a track that is just starting to open up to PB's.
We are using the same rules that apply to the elite 13's. These bikes fall into the proddy class w/ its 14mm carb but has a 5 port head like the elite 13's. WHich our clubs allows to run in the production class. I'll be running in both Proddy and Open class w/ the C1
The 13W should be coming in today. 
