banshee clutch

got another question gor you guys ou there. my banshee's clutch was making a noise so i took the cover off and too my suprise the clch was just spinning on the crank shaft.i noticed the key that holds the clutch in place on the shaft was broken into pieces .so i got a new key for the clutch well installed it and now the clutch is making a wierd noise so i took the clutch off and again to my suprise the clutchwas grinding into the casing.so so my quwstion to you is .is there something missing behind the clutch like a washer to give it some space from the casing or is the clutch no good?also when i put the new key in and installed everything i took it for a test run and there was no power and would never wind out .it would stay at an rpm before the [powerband kicked in and wouldn't go any higher or faster and was very doggy out of the hole not like my other bansheewhich totally rips.any suggestions guys ?help please .or is the clutch bad?and need a new one

that is a problem i have never had. no, there isn't anything behind the clutch. the slant on the shaft should hold it firmly in place. if you're running the stock clutch, and it has never worked right, they may have drilled the hole too big or something. or scarily, maybe the shaft is too small! (but i doubt it) try an aftermarket clutch. it should have one anyway since your pick-up will greatly improve..

yea for some reason im not having any problem with my other banshee just this one

i have another banshee,should i try the clutch from that bike to see if it works also thats why the power output is weak correct?

yeah, that's what i'd do. it would at least let you rule out the clutch or shaft. what do you mean "that's why the power output is weak"?

ther is no power it jsut kinda revs but not revs completley outthe revs stay at a certain point right before the power band and thats as far as it goes

moved to w/c forum

you may find that the sideways float on the crank is what is causing this as i had the same trouble with mine at first.the crank moves far enough to allow the nuts on the back of the posts to foul on the crankcase and the clutch is obviously not sitting far enough down the shaft to grip on the taper properly.

i got around it by using a cag adjustable clutch backing plate as these havent got the great big nuts on the back of the posts like the banshee ones have.
i then had 1mm milled off the backing plate which allowed the clutch to seat a little further onto the taper and it then didnt even need a woodruff key.you could get a bit milled of the banshee clutch but you will have to grind off the nuts on the back or obviously they will hit even more.

sounds like a good idea .but, what if i just buy a pollini clutch set up and get around the whole thing.also did this problem cause you bike to become a dog and not get into the power band?mine just sounds like it is slipping constantly.and will not lock up.also could i use a stock cag clutch just to try it out to see if that is actually the problem .but i am sure it is.

you can not just fit a polini clutch set up without changing the crank as the backing plates are different.you can buy a cag adjustable clutch to try,but you will need to swap over the shoes etc and even then there is no guarantee that the new backing plate will fit the taper properly without first having some milled off the back.

yeah that's true. or you could get a different stock banshee backing, and install polini shoes on that. that's what i've always done..

yep he could try that but as he is already having trouble getting his stock backing plate to seat correctly,he may still have the same trouble with another one.the main reason that i suggest a cag backing plate is because they havent got the huge nuts on the back,so you can get them to fit further down the taper without the nuts fouling the crankcase.

yeah i see what you're saying. but a stock banshee clutch SHOULD fit ok, so trying another stock one would help rule out if there is a clutch problem, shaft problem, etc. who knows? maybe he's not tightening the clutch down far enough for the key to engage! it could be a lot of things. either-or though..

Sounds like the woodruff key is not seating correctly. He may need to remove the assembly and do a test fit to see if the key is fitting the backing plate. If not he can file it down to fit.

well guys ,when i checked the clutch the first time the woodruff key was broken into bits and the clutch was just spinning around the shaft freely.so i got a new woodruff key it was a good fit and tightened the nut down then tried it that way .when i took it for a test spin the clutch just wouldnt lock up so it kept on reving while the bike barely moved .so i took it apart again and the clutch looked correct and nothing was loose.but when i removed the clutch the backing plate area that bolts right next to the bearing was catching some wear.not the bearing just the area around it.the backing plate nuts werent touching the case at all.so at that point i thought there was something missing behind the clutch so it wouldnt rub on the area next to the bearing.but from what you guys say there is nothing that goes behind the clutch backing plate.so i was going to try a new clutch to see if maybee the old one was worn down from spinning freely on the shaft because the woodfuff key was broke.but im unsure that purchasing a new one will fit much different.so if i dont have a clutch puller what would be the best and safest way to pull the clutch off of my other banshee without using a clutch puller tool ?.so i could try the other clutch from my other banshee.but then again i dont want to tear my other banshee apart because that bike runs awesome.so as of right now i dont have a clue on what is the next step.would buying another clutch be a good idea?or would it do the same thing.so any ways good ideas guys but this is my current dilemma.any help on this would be greatly appreciated.thanks guys!!!!!!!

also guys could i try a stock cag clutch in the banshee just to see if that is the problem because i alredy have one off from one of my cags.thanks

you wont be able to use a stock cag clutch because these are designed to run with a 78mm bell,not the 80mm of the banshee.

yeah i thought that sounded funny regarding the cag clutch. didn't seem like that would fit right, but i don't know for sure.

as far as pulling the clutch off, you can get it off without a clutch puller by carefully prying it off side-by-side with a flathead screwdriver. be careful not to pry too hard and destroy the case or clutch. i would use a piece of wood or something to pry off of.

before taking the clutch off your good banshee, make sure that your springs are not too tight. as the pads wear down, you need to loosen them to compensate for the extra space between the pads and the clutch bell. just make sure you loosen them equally. (ex. 1 full turn on each nut) also, i would take the clutch completely apart piece-by-piece to make sure that everything looks ok, and is working properly.

do you have a digital camera? pics of the clutch and shaft would definitely help us help you!

It would be a wise move to purchase a clutch puller which is only like $10.00. This will save alot of headaches down the line along with a $14.00 digital micrometer. The flat side adjustment method is "ok" but not the most accurate.

The fastest and easiest way to remove the clutch is to take two of the bolts from your pinion cover and carefully install them in the threaded holes on the clutch backing plate. Tighten each bolt evenly until the plate pops off. It should't take but a minute to do. Be careful though, the bolts are positioned against the inside case and you do not want to tighten too hard. I read your problem in full and a picture would help. I would take apart the good Banshee clutch and compaire each component carefully. This should point out any differences. Stick with the stock backing plate and get some better shoes, you should be fine...