there is no way in hell anyone (who isn't crazy) should pay damn near twice the money for a banshee over a c1, I have been for a while but now I am really getting tired of all the c1 haters, BOTTOM LINE change the wristpin for a "real" blata part and buy the blata bottle cap and go ride the hell out of it, good clutches bolt right on, unlike the banshee!!! the cases are just like the real deal any blata b1 parts bolt right on, frame is SOLID (I know because I hit a speed bump doing over 30mph cought air, some how landed clean and nothing was bent....)
so comming from a LONGTIME multipul c1 owner dont listen to thease nuggets talking trash about the c1 the wrist pin is the ONLY thing that has to be changed...
You tell'm nickj, The C1,C2,and C5 are the dominant bikes out there. My C5 runs circles around the Banshee, but hey that could just be my experience as a SBK racer in the 80's (6) or my 40 yrs riding. The C-series has a very strong alum. frame, and looks tough too.
the exhaust is the only part on that bike i would take over the c1, most of those frames come pre bent (in a bad way), carb work is hard because that whole area is WAY Cramped, finger room only...
get the 39cc c1, just make sure it's one of the later generation's with the "Silver banshee radiator" the old school black one was mounted in the worst possible way which caused it to leak after prolonged use and when riding conditions are "Bumpy"..
then just get the blata wristpin setup and the bottle cap before you use it and you will have a nice little bike for WAY less money...
later on down the road you can upgrade to the fake 50cc (45cc) kit or go italian and get a "real" 50cc kit...
??? the ring doesnt contact the head, just the piston crown (head) if you ride often a year is almost pushing it as far as ring life, look at it this way 20 minutes to change a 8 dollar ring or 50-100 dollars for a new top end (piston cylinder and ring)....
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Almost :]
dont mean to be a Newbe
but, I heard if you get a Head kit, you have to change the Piston Rings every year or so....
the banshee is definitely worth the money if you intend to step up to euro power at some stage.
The C1, C2 and C5 doesnt have problems with strenght or running gear, its that the footpeg position is lame and you cant lean it over enough without gouging the pegs into the track to hit the turns fast enough to be winning races. End of story.
theres a reason origamis both replica and genuine dont win races. BUT i must say they are actually a very dependable little bike. perhaps more so then most!
almost - if your stepping up from a half fairing cag the elite rep might be a good option. they would have plenty of go and handling because there so small and light but i think youd write off the frame pretty quick. Z1 is also not too bad a bike but probably on the pricey end.
guess you just have to ask how much do you want to spend at the end of the day. spend it all at once and not endure the ongoing costs (aka go euro) or invest a little at a time and end up spending the same.
i just spent $3200 on getting my BZM dreambike going over the last year. $100 here $300 there. i could have bought a GRC RR for that. lesson learnt.
there is no way in hell anyone (who isn't crazy) should pay damn near twice the money for a banshee over a c1, I have been for a while but now I am really getting tired of all the c1 haters, BOTTOM LINE change the wristpin for a "real" blata part and buy the blata bottle cap and go ride the hell out of it, good clutches bolt right on, unlike the banshee!!! the cases are just like the real deal any blata b1 parts bolt right on, frame is SOLID (I know because I hit a speed bump doing over 30mph cought air, some how landed clean and nothing was bent....)
so comming from a LONGTIME multipul c1 owner dont listen to thease nuggets talking trash about the c1 the wrist pin is the ONLY thing that has to be changed...
This is the best advice I have read on this forum in a long time. Take it from a guy who knows and has the experience. I have never owned a C1, but they handle much better than a C2 (which I did own, and was a good, reliable bike). They give you excellent value, IMHO. Later versions are much improved over the early models.
Though the E13 is the cheapest, you really get what you pay for. I had one, and I loved it, but it was very poor quality. If you arent prepared to completely strip your new bike and do some major work, then don't buy one. NickJ is right about the C1; change the bearing and RIDE!
Stay away from anything with a GP3 reverse engine (i.e. G1/G2). I have two engines in pieces in my basement because various parts have failed, ruining the engine (anyone who needs GP3 parts, I can probably help you get running again). They are just too complex and unreliable.
OK 2bamp what you got and how much for the engines lol!! PM me if you really want to get rid of them. The C1 today at the races was a beast, It is the newest of the c1 has great power I wouldn't even go to 50cc yet just ride it. the new wrist pins look alot better than the older styles the look just like the blatas side by side. We are trying the engine just like it came except for some port matching and some polishing. But it runs very strong we are having a little clutch issues but the new ones are on the way. For the money I would try a C1.
Last edited by badbandit12 : 08-16-2008 at 09:48 PM.
Hey badbadit12 how did you do at the track today, win any? and show the ropes? I hope so, you gotta hold up the C series new good name.
Myself(C5) and the other members of my club are going to the track tomorrow to blast out a pile of laps. Got the lil' ninja's nitrous bottle filled today and hooked up and ready to go. We have some visitors in the valley so I'll bring a couple extra bikes. My MOM won't let me lend out my C5! lol.
C5's rule. I made a set of rear sets for it and it gets way over now. Surprising how it hold the line.
yea I'm working on some sets for all the C series bike. My dumb a** lent out my Blata WRS yesterday at the track now I have a few hundred dollars worth of fixing to do!!!!From now on just the cags get lent out lol. The C1 camel bike looks damn good everyone was liking the looks of it
On my C2, I cut off most of the footpegs and installed cag pegs on them. You can rotate them up about 3/4" and they also give your left foot more metal to grab onto. It is a pretty sweet setup, especially if you can find some of the "SQ" cag pegs with the thicker hanger. My firend who has a real Blata B1 runs this way as well.
If anyone wants to try this setup, but doesn't want to cut their stock pegs, PM me.
That peg mod sounds like it'll work great. Just the ticket for most C series riders. I like it, simple and functional. Good thinking.
Another one is, drill out the rubber part until it goes all the way to the frame end, and if the peg is too long to bottom out on the hole, then cut off some of the peg at the leading end, hence stubs.
And just prep'n my bikes to go to the track for some fast laps. Practice today.
I sure 'am. Just the air cools. I've made a spray sys. with double nozzles, a regulator off of a CO2 TIG welding outfit. It runs at about 40 psi(can adjust by reg.) and has a small one way thumb button made by the Humphries people. It work like a charm. The gas mix is at 27-28:1 syn.
Why do you ask. It hasn't blown-up, and does go like the proverbial lil'Ninja of ultimate doom. Has other goodies affixed as well.
I'll lend out my cags but my MOM won't let me lend out my C5. lol.
For me the C1 has been a pain! just a bad seller kind of deal. The bike on the other hand looks to be a good bike and solid. I have torn it completely down and replaced all the seals with the real deal and everything. this kid told me that he put a real blata wrist pin in but it is hard for me to tell if its the real deal? any ways of telling if its real or not? besides blowing my engine sky high? i bought a big bore kit for it since the piston ring was hosed when i got the bike and it was filled with water. Once the bbk is installed i am hoping the thing runs solid! And from the sounds of it the C1 can be a good bike just replace the oring seals and wrist pin bearing and start rippin the track up!! my vote C1.