I need some Help with my C1 clutch ?

i fitted a new C1 clutch to my bike it wasn't KEVLAR or anything i only payd £16.99 for it of the web , soo anyways i adjusted all 3 springs to 21mm as told and the bike worked fine for an hour or soo but then it started slipping soo i adjusted the shoes to 22.5mm and it worked brillient. i went and started it today and the clutch just slips like it did before and i tried adjusting it but when i adjust it to 21mm it doesnt catch , 22mm it catches but ifi keep yhe power on it slips like mad & if i adjust it to 22 - 23mm it kicks in to early on low RPM's & the bike doesnt pull me

Any suggestions because ive tried almost everything

Thanks

are you using stock 6-68 gearing??

make sure the bell is really clean, and the pads on the clutch too...

does the clutch slip all the time now when its set to 21mm or just after it warms up?

it's pretty normal for the clutch to slip more and more the longer you are riding, but you should be able to get a good 15-20min's before it needs to cool down...

you might want to look into getting some 'real' blata springs, or weighting the clutch itself..

also you can remove some of the metal from the clutch bell housing to allow more air to hit the clutch / drum...

And don't forget to scuff up the drum with some 80-100 grit emery cloth to remove any glaze on the surface. be sure to rub perpendicular to the clutch direction. Also scuff up the clutch pads in a diagonal direction. This helped the knowledgesticks Banshee, so it should work for you too.

yes i am using 6-68


the bell has a very shiny silver look to it and the pads are shiny

It just doesn't grip at all when its set at 21mm .

well ive tried 2 sets of springs and its still the same & you was sayin about weighing it down .... how would i go about doing that ?

weights are added to the clutch arms, with the extra weight the clutch opens with extra force, works for some people but not for all...

like pegdrag said scuff up the clutch drum and clutch pads, shiny = glazed and glazed = bad, so take some sandpaper to the bell / pads....

Yeah man, glaze is a demon, it keeps you from what you want. If you want to go all out get a Dremmel or die grinder with a tiny tip, and very carefully cut grooves in the bell on a diagonal pattern about 10-12mm apart,mark with a magic marker first to see how many grooves you need to go equally around the I.D., then with a small thin straight edge on an angle used as a guide, run the grinding tip along the edge to cut into the bell surface, but only a few thou. and be sure to cut the depth equally all the way across the clutching surface. And/or do the same to the pads, remember, equal. Will work better now. The extreme way is to index a bunch of holes(1/8inch) about16-18mm apart in 4 rows all the way around the bell on the clutch mating area. They must be EQUAL all the way around this is to balance and provide even wear, or put a bunch of drill tips in the pads(just the point of the 1/8 dr.) and again equal amount of depressions in the same place on all the shoes. Why? Because it will increase the amount of grab due to decreased contact area, hence more grab. the end

PS be sure to remove all burrs and scuff up bell.

CHEARS boys i shall try sanding the bell bell housing down first then how should i do this ? , what sandpaper & what should it look like after it finished ?

rough is good, it creates traction, so i would say pretty low on the grit, something for a rough finish, not a fine grit...

Waddia think nickj, a 80-100 grit otta do it. And use emery cloth not sandpaper, it breaks down too easy and makes a mess. When you are scuffing, rub in and out, across the direction of the clutch, short full strokes and try wrapping the emerycloth over the end of a small flathead screwdriver. Take your time , it's not the speed you do it that does it, use slow smooth strokes with good pressure on the tip. If you tear a strip off the sheet of emerycloth to fit just wider than the screwdriver tip it will work the nicest. Now, very often move the cloth on the driver (or anything blunt) to keep a fresh area of cloth to scuff with, keep an eye on the surface and you will start to see the effect and scuff the drum up good. Be patient, and DO NOT put the bell in the vise OK.

Well Blata, how's your clutch doing now, did you scuff it good. Let us know eh.

yes bois it works a pearl

thanks alot you were very useful

thanks

Your very welcome, what's next, we're all ears in here, one big community I find.

I wonder if the clutch pad compound on these things are similar to that of a regular brake pad. On a brake application, one thing that causes brake fade ( in a clutch analogy, slippage) is the out gassing of the pads, i.e. as the pad heats up the compounds in the brake pads expel gas that gets between the rotor and the pad. It creates a very thin layer of gas separating the pad from the rotor. In cars this is remedied by slotting and/or drilling the rotors to allow the gas to escape, NOT necessarily for cooling, that's the job of the vents in the rotor. I was wondering if machining very shallow grooves at 45 degree angles would help the clutch slippage issue.

Also (hi-jacking thread alert) l have a C-1 with stock drum and clutch, from my reading, this will last me very little as I am in the sumo class (210 lb, of PB'er). What is the the most cost effective way to get it setup right? Can you buy just the BZM pads/arms so I could keep my stock center piece, or would I need the whole deal, with a new drum.

Thanks much!

--

John

it all depends on how high you set the stall speed of the clutch, one of our bikes is set to engauge low (on purpose) and the clutch has lasted well over a year (it's the stock china clutch).... on the other hand another bike we have is set really high but we still see about 20 hours of ride time on each clutch...

bzm or any other clutch parts wont fit onto the stock setup, but the real blata arm's / springs will, and i would highly sugguest them, huge difference over the stock setup and for less $$$ than the other stuff..

however if you really want to go the bzm route they DO have a setup for the blatas as well...

Hey jrogosich, if you scuff up the surfaces of the clutch pads and the bell now and again it'll renew the grab. Use 80-100 grit emery cloth to achieve a ruff scuff. Rub across the direction of the clutch or slightly diagonal to the direction. Scuff the pads too.

I put this up a few days ago, This is the extreme version. Forgot about it, and which thread it was on.

Is that an avatar or what?

Where is a good place to get the real blata clutch parts, there are none in the classified section . Would I need a new drum?

Thanks

--
John

here are some links (if im allowed to post them)

so for 55$ you get a kick a** clutch. which if i remember correctly is LESS than a stock banshee clutch

springs and hardware
Pannon Sports :: Minimoto...

shoes
Pannon Sports :: Minimoto...


or contact blatausa and ask about the same part numbers listed on the pannon site...




you "shouldnt" need a new drum but there have been a few bikes that had a smaller than normal drum in which case some of the pad area needed to be 'thinned' I would say 8 out of 10 wouldnt need a new bell, if you have some calipers you can measure in advance to make sure, I believe it should be 78mm but I'll double check to make sure..

Wow I got really excited about that $55 for a blata clutch setup!

BUT there a couple problems, Pannon Sports doesn't have the arms in stock. The price is also 24.95 for EACH arm.

(from the Blata USA website)


http://www.blatausa.com/images/spacer.gif http://www.blatausa.com/images/spacer.gif Part Number Description MSRP 330.017.00 Clutch Lever $22.76 330.021.00 Clutch Spring 2,5 X 4,1 $2.76 330.021.01 Clutch Spring 3 X 4 $3.44 330.021.02 Clutch Spring 3 X 3,6 $3.10 330.024.00 Clutch Drum $41.38 330.028.00 Clutch Case $53.80 330.030.00 Clutch Lever Complete $82.76 330.032.00 Clutch Complete $105.44

I am guessing I would need to buy 3 "clutch levers" but I was wondering what the difference with "clutch lever complete" is? Or should I just pony up the other $20 and get the whole darned thing?

I will check my drum next chance I get

Thanks a bunch!

Hey guys that pannon sports has some real nice stuff and it's in the old country Ontario Canada, so there will be no BS at the boarder for me here in BC. Thats great. Only problem is they're out of stock on the needle brg's. Dang. I'll ask them when they expect to get some more. For the price of a new barrel, head, and piston (wiseco) is more than I payed for my C5. sheesh. So I better get a couple of needle brgs soon or I might be screwed.