hey guys, names andrew just joined the forums have been checking them out for awhile now before i bought my first liquid cooled bike upgrading from my 49cc 200$ USD pocket bikes ive had for around a year now, That me and my GF got off ebay.
The banshee was a big step up, I have been riding bikes since i was 5. Dirtbikes that is, And am pretty good at riding. But i am not so technical as i was not the person to do this, i was mearly the racer.
Hear is some footage of my banshee SHO fresh out of the box, Notice how long the power band takes to kick in and how deep i have to burry the throttle to get the tire to spin?
the liquid cooling system is working good, made sure that the rad filled up. Ran the bike for a good 15 or 20 min on its stand before even attempting to ride it.
it still starts fine, just curious what i could do to make the bike faster and more responsive. My mechanic who worked on my last bikes, Is busy but he does love working on them, But this gives me a chance to perhaps save my self some $ and start to learn how to fix thease things.
i know the banshee is almot more snappy off the line than this and i think it has to do with the way the carb is tuned? this is what my mechanic did to my last bike, And had them running much smoother and faster.
If this is the problem and it needs to be adjusted, I am curious if it is one of the outer screws on the banshee Carb or is it internal inside the carb?
15 -20 min on the stand is not a good thing this bike must have the rear wheel turning to make the water pump work no water pump turning no water flow through the head which inturns means it will overheat . How much do you weigh ?? you will need to adjust your clutch for sure . Have you adjusted your squish on it yet ?? Lots of things to do to make it go but when you do it will go like a bat out of hell
Last edited by capt highsider : 05-16-2008 at 06:54 AM.
so this bike is a bit slower to engage then is what im understanding?
and dont worry, while it was on the stand on and off for 15-20 minutes i would rev it so the wheel would spin, the hole RAD is full with fluid and then there is half of the res full.
i filled it up once, put the windscreen back on started it for a bit spun the rear wheel looked, and it was outa fluid! forgot it had to fill the RAD up lol! did this 2 times before i figured out to just leave the screen off until the RAD, and a bit of the RES was full.
i am 140lbs, 5'9.
without purchasing any new parts yet, as i am on a bit of a budget for the next month and a bit, what could i do to increase the response time of the bike?
thanks alot guys, love to be a part of this community. Cant wait to get some footage from the local go-kart track!
As i said, i am not technical with thease bikes so i have not adjusted anything on it yet. I usually take my bikes to my mechanic to get it tunned up And adjusted, but hes busy working on a bunch of cars And figured it would be a good time to learn, And start saving myself some money. Is the squish in the carb? Sorry if that is a stupid question i am new at this tech stuff.
-andrew
Last edited by knowledgestick : 05-16-2008 at 07:26 AM.
pull the clutch/ bell housing off and on the clutch you will see 2 springs with nuts on top of them each turn of the flat on the nut is about 400 rpms. Do you have a set of calipers?? If you do you need to measure both sides to make sure they are the same distance apart. Heres a link to help do this http://www.minimotogarage.com/bi-zet...rticle_02.html
Thanks friend, i will need to buy a set of callipers to do this, I am oviously goign to have to take the hole engine out of the bike to do this or can it be done with just the body removed?
Also how many turns do you recommend and how often should i check to see if it is working better?
i appreciate the help, i hope to learn this the best i can and start implimenting it and saving some Cash.
Is there anything that i can do to the carb to make it preform better? the 2 screws that are on it, one is the Idle screw and the other is the air/gas ratio mixture one correct?
would adjusting this make it run smoother? i will take some more footage today of how long it takes to get going, And how high it needs to be revved.
Last edited by knowledgestick : 05-16-2008 at 09:17 AM.
you can just take the lower body section off no need to remove the top unless you want to once its set its set until you start losing clutch material then you will just need to shim the pads out with washer shims as they start to wear you will know when this is happening the clutch will start slipping and engaging later and later and reving more to get going. as far as adjusting it you do it until you like the way it engages you may have to do this a couple times so leave the fairings off until you satisfied.I would like to see some video . as far as adjusting the squish . Heres the link http://www.minimotogarage.com/top-en...placement.html
thank you for that info , the 2 screws on the carburator, one controls the idle the other controls the gas/air mixture would adjusting this improve performance at all?
Try that link again its working for me . the one with the visible spring on it is for the idle . the mixture screw probably wont cure your problem . I think maybe you need to take off the carb and douche it out mine had grease in the main jet and had the carb plugged up when I got it .
sounds good, i located the idle screw as it was the same on my previous bikes, i have it idling without needing throttle now.
To take the carb off do u mean the hole carb or just the bottom section that can be taken off? i have never done this before, How difficult will it be to remove it/ put it back on?
it would consist of taking the bottom fairing off and working from somewhat of a underneathe angle am i correct?
all help will be appreciated, i can try to make some kind of video of this.
Also what kind of liquid do you douche a carb with if you dont mind me asking! lol
Thanks friend, i will need to buy a set of callipers to do this, I am oviously goign to have to take the hole engine out of the bike to do this or can it be done with just the body removed?
Also how many turns do you recommend and how often should i check to see if it is working better?
i appreciate the help, i hope to learn this the best i can and start implimenting it and saving some Cash.
Is there anything that i can do to the carb to make it preform better? the 2 screws that are on it, one is the Idle screw and the other is the air/gas ratio mixture one correct?
would adjusting this make it run smoother? i will take some more footage today of how long it takes to get going, And how high it needs to be revved.
leave the carb alone you're not going to get any more outta it by touching the screws except idle. the screw with the spring backing it. these bikes are all about the clutches. when they hit and how much slip you got. first off you don't want any slip. and you want it to engage at 8,500- 9,000 rpms. the stock springs are to light you need bzm red springs. but with the stock ones you'll need to be at 24mm in distance for correct engagement. you also only want 1mm space between the shoes and the drum you uptain this by putting shims i.e. washers under the clutch shoes. and no you don't need to remove the motor to adjust the clutch. you need to remove the foot peg on the left side then the 4 m5 allen bolts from the drum then the clutch is right there before you're eyes. read the how to's on minimoto grage. its in black and white.
also you goingto need a set of metric allen drivers and a clutch puller. to make working on the bike easier. read tools you need on minimoto grage. also use loctite on every bolt that threads into metal or you'll be sorry...
thanks for those very informative posts, i will do this as soon as i get the correct tools.
Are they pocket bike specific tools i need or can i purchase them anyware?
i finally hit the power band, wow that thing goes fast and i wasnt even near 50% throttle, it felt like somebody tied a chain to the front of it and took off in a car lol
i think it is starting to break- in a little bit more, also how tight should the chain be? i have not touched it out of the box. its fairly tight.
ill keep you guys up to date! and get some more video, next time hopefully from the track.
hey guys, hears a little clip of me testing it on the old abandon fairy dock road in my town,
there was anohter guy riding his dirt bike down there with me that you can hear in the video, a 4 stroke so dont get it confused with the sound of my engine.
Running the thing just enough for the power band to engage, Probably around 40% throttle at most been careful not to burry it, the thing moves GOOD now i know what u mean by be ready for it or it could fling soembody off, that some serious power when it kicks in!
its getting easyer, and easyer to start each time. This bike was great out of the box compared to my china 200$ bikes.
Thanks for all the help guys, as soon as i get the tools required i will be adjusting my clutch.
lmao! now you just need throttle control you can hear how its trying to get away from you. you shoulda just nailed it wot and let it stand straight up for a moment its scary! this vid is making me wanna throw my banshee back together but i have no clutch
Sounds good set your squish to
.50-.58 and you will have a bottom end beast on your hands. I have mine set at .53 and it pulls so hard it floats the front end crazy with my 200# butt on it. I Hammer it out of the hole and it stands up for ya . I will post up some new video tomorrow if I take it with me
haha, thats for sure! gotta get use to this little powerhouse wow, packs alot more of a punch than my previous bikes. Im very pleased with this thing.
ill keep this forum up to date, and always post videos as i have a nice camera.
next time we'll probably be at the go-kart track. im going to save up and order those springs in awhile because i need to invest my money into other more important areas so its good enough for now.
Im sure with time ill get better at controlling that initial pull that wants to suck u right off the bike ! lol, im glad you enjoyed the video i enjoyed making it
Sounds good set your squish to
.50-.58 and you will have a bottom end beast on your hands. I have mine set at .53 and it pulls so hard it floats the front end crazy with my 200# butt on it I will post up some new video tomorrow if I take it with me
LOL! awsome, im only a buck 45 so i will have to be careful!
thease bikes pack a lot of power it seems, i am going to read up on setting the squish etc, and get some tools through the next month and order the springs for the clutch then go to town on it and tune it for better performance thanks for such a warm welcome everybody, good to be in a pocket bike community
looks good but change to rear sprocket to a 68 tooth cag sprockets are a direct bolt on with the stock 74 tooth it doesn't let the pipe and motor rev out matter of fact you'll kill the clutch pads in no time with the 74. the 68 you'll gain 3-5 mph and hardly loose any bottom and gain about 2,000 rpm's. and put alot less stress on the motor and drive train. i don't know why the chinese put on a 74 but its not the right grearing for the bike at all. just ask standardracer. i kept telling him to do it when first got the bike. but when he did his jaw dropped. from the difference it made. i run 6-64 on my modded banshee. that grear rip's on a modded bike...
Stuch is right about the gear change . the powerband hit funny it hit way late and then it was reved out to quick . When I changed to the 68 the pipe hit sooner and reved longer in the powerband. The chinese had it all wrong. a simple $9 china sprocket will make you a believer . and it does not have to be a offset sprocket so dont bother
