My new Star-X 50ccw/c C5

Using motor oil is the fastest way to ruin an engine I can think of. Find some 2-stroke oil, and use that. Typical motor oil is not formulated to mix evenly with gas, so it won't do the job.

FWIW, break-in can be done with synthetic oil on a 2t with no adverse effects. What matters most is that you don't beat the crap out of it the first time you run it.

ive read/heardthat 4t was better for break in on 2t's
something about the oil staying in the cylinder longer

Hey, StrayDawg and 2bamp are right! Use a non-syn. 2-stroke oil 25-30:1 to break-in, or you could have trouble and after a couple of tanks of that then go to syn. at up to 40:1 There are many mixed opinions surrounding this final mixing ratio, but the rule of thumb has been that they should always puff a little bit of smoke, to ensure lubrication.

And do take it easy on it for a while, like he said don't beat the crap out of it! The bike'll last longer.

kk thanks ive got some non synthetic 2 stroke oil sitting around for my other bikes...

Right on, good choice. How did you lift the tank? And does your tank plastic hit the top triple clamp?

I think im going to try to drop by lordco and check out if they have heat shields and some aluminum tape...it seems to be a easier alternative and nickj said aluminum tape works fine so it should work out...anyways im going to consistently check the gas tank to see wat condition its in so a hole doesnt burn through it and wen it starts to melt then ill try lifting it off the exhaust

Well ya, it's up to you eh. The alum. sheilding would probably work, we don't know yet, until you try it and let us know. lol. Just kidd'n, eh, good luck I hope it works great. Also waiting to hear your 1st impressions of riding the C5.

Lol...im going to probably start the break in sometime today and post some info tonite to see how much heat the exhaust pipe puts out and how the power is wen i go easy...a real impression most likely wont be made until after the break in

Allright! Give'r! . . . well take it easy anyway.

Well 33, don't those little bikes go or what?

Tell us your impressions.

I'm impressed Bud! I weigh 220 and it very easily pulled the front end up at 45degrees and kept it there for about 15'! Yes, I checked my shorts afterwards!

WOW....this bike is NUTZ i think it can give my 125 a good race lol...unfortunately its getting COLD probably not enough riding will be done this year....boooohooooo

Yeah they're NUTZ alright! gotta luv that zip. And sad we have to put them away soon, but think about next year, there's a club in Abbotsford that races at the TradeX center. It would be a good central venue to congergate and race. Mini Racing British Columbia 2008 - PCMRC and CIMRA There's other links there too.

Well, I just got back from an afternoon of pocket bike fun. Other than wiping out both foot pegs and a coolent bottle cap that won't hold ANY pressure, not an issue with the bike itself. Does it ever stop scaring the hell out of you?! I still have a fear of loosing rear traction in a tight knee dragger, but, I have the wheelie part down pat! I think the break in period is over though; I just could resist opening it up....a lot!

Great news, sorry about the pegs, there is a cross-brace trick which can be used to give the pegs/sub-frame a better chance of making it through a few crash's, it involves connecting the the two sides of the sub-frame together, I have pictures somewhere, I'll try to find them for you...

and yes you will get used to it, every time I drive my car now it feels SLOW!!!

Yeah my peg rubbers split too. Now they're like corner feelers. And the sides of my old racing boots are ground off, more corner feelers. lol. But hey, do they ever go eh!

Raven get to a store like Lordco, Napa, can. tire, or a Fiat deater to get a 95 Fiat Punto rad cap. that should do the trick, to stop the leaking out the cap.

Is the Fiat rad cap the solution? I see Tsunami sells a replacement Blata bottle for not too much money. Is it the rad cap, or, an overflow bottle on the Fiat?

Hey guy, sorry for taking so long, my comp box was sick and had to get fixed.

And yeah, just the fiat cap would do, but the whole bottle and cap from Tsunami, I believe will be a better choice. I'm thinking now to get a couple myself now, for my two C5's.

Haven't been riding at all, just putting the bikes up for winter now, bummer.

Brought this one back so a couple of new C5 owners can have a read.

Hi guys, I figured out why the C5's get so hot. On the rad at the bottom are two hose mount nipples, at the top are two as well, the one on the right (top) is where the liquid is returned to the rad. The one at the bottom right is the one that the pump sucks from to push the coolant through the motor. (in stock setup)

The trouble is, that the coolant goes into the rad top R, and comes out the bottom R, so the coolant never gets a chance to go through the rad and get cooled off. Due to pressure and gravity the coolant just runs down the right side of the rad.

So, to stop the C5 from over heating, what I did was change the bottom two hoses over. The right side hose went over to the left and the left hose, (from the bottle), went over to the right side. See pics.

This was the solution to the over heating problem and not the cap.

As you can see in the pics that the hose from the bottom of the engine, (remove that nipple and make sure it is NOT blocked, one of mine was totaly plugged, so I cleared it then ran "CLR" through the entire system to wash it out), Runs past the pipe, so I wraped the hose with a very heavy guage steel fencing wire (.100") that I slipped over the hose, positioned it in place and attached the hose and tighten the clamp. You might have to cut a little more out of the fairing right there to clear the coiled hose (you'll see), figuring that you've already cut some out to clear the pipe to stop the fairing from burning.

It's not that hard to do, so if you own a C5 and it over heats, follow the steps and ride with freedom.