Tuning a B1 China replica

you can cut out the metal adaptor and fit a delorto 18mm carb and grind out the side to match the carb outlet.we use 50 idle jet and 90 main jet indoors.we also have fitted fibre reeds and have machined off 1mm from top of barrel.barrel has also been ported and clutch shoes were baked in oven for 30 minutes at 180c.

this is how i made my clutch assembly to work better..and not burn every **** clutch i tryed so far

i have the black clutch shoes on now and the real blata spring's ,also I cut away 2/3 of the clutch house for beter cooling i was amazed by the difference it made, from 290'C to about 80/90'C wich is about the ideal temp for the clutch!!

The stock spring's are crap!!, i think they are the main reason for all those stock clutches failing, they just don't come back in original shape, so the blata one's are a must even if youre planning on only using stock clutches, the stock clutch work's well up to a weight of about 75KG, if youre bigger than that (like me) 85KG, you deffenatly need a clutch upgrade..

I tryed the golden/green blata shoes too but they didn't work well for me, they seemed to be to slippery and didn't grab at any spring setting.

The last thing i made is a airscoop on the side of my fairing, to get more airflow over the clutch, I just like having the whole fairing on, i see many guy's without but it just look's better with them on...

We did al this too on the bike of my team mate but he is still running the stock clutch, that did improve to with this "upgrade", the clutches are home made by a guy i know so i couldn't tell ya where to get those.

the cost of adjusting the clutch house 0$, the cost off 3 blata spring's 15$

cheapest clutch upgrade yet, worth a try, i'd say...

Id be weary to lower the squish lower than .7 or so measure the squish on left side of engine and right side I bet you will get a different reading, I did off by @.002 in these engines are not perfect and exsact tollerances

I agree, my squish was 1mm stock, i leave it at that, already at WOT the engine screem's so hard i think it's about to BLOW!!! I wouldn't wanna push it any further than this, last weekend after testing sum jet setup's, i thought the bike seezed, rear wheel blocked at wot.. $hit i thought now i done it crossed the edge...and boom!!!, my luck. .. it was the waterpump drivebelt seezed up between flywheel and coil... pfffff. almost had a stroke....

is there any mantinance that should be done with that water pump belt ive heard you can use blata pump and it is gears instead of a belt?? anyone got the part # for the blata gear water pump??

hey guys where is the cheapest place i can buy this bike........ plz need a link or something

cant post link's on forume dude sorry! e to the bay is the cheapest just do a search for blata and they will show up discount bug is the guy i got mine from, be patient, if the bid gets too high wait for next you should be able to get the bike for under 500 to the door with shiping included and all.. this guy has gen 2 bikes

gen 2 as in BT hydra AC or hydra AC

is there really a huge diference

the AC hydra is air cooled. difference in 1 vs 2 is color they painted frame, 1 is black 2 is silver the clucth drum is better on 2nd gen still sux but has thicker wall and 6 vent holes gen 1 is thin and 4 vent holes. You will probably burn up the clutch before the motor is brok in anyway replace the drum too with a quality one like bi zetta the prob with stock ones is they arent round but egg shaped due to china tolerences

What generation the bike is, is not that important. The majority of the clutch problems that the B1 replica has, are caused by the carb being too small.

too small carb = less power = clutch slipage = less speed = overheating (there are ther factors that cause the over heating too, like a crap collant bottle cap, blocked water passages in the cylinder, defective water pump and air blocks to name a few)

The guy that started this thread, Arjan has a generation 1 C1 (4 hole clutch drum) with a Dell'Orto carb and gets about 10 tanks out of each stock clutch

Yep totally true, finally some back up to my "questionable" carb/clutch theory....
thx James

so do you guys think the delorto 17.5 is the way to go? or Badazz 17mm? the delorto is a bit more expensive? will it be worth it?

can't say , don't have acces to the badazz one, i think the 17,5phva is the way to go, sum might say the 16 or 18 are better... some swear by the 19mm, al i can say is the del'lorto phva17,5mm work's well for me and was worth every penny...

Now if i were to get a 17.5 delorto do i have to change the manafold? can i use the stock one? how bout air cleaner and throttle cable ??

You can use the stock manifold, you may need a different (longer) throttle cable and depending on what filter you use, a new filter.

WOW

wicked info! I just read the whole thing!!!!! Everyone with a C1 A/C or W/C should read this...wicked


Thanks guys!

E

i just read the whole 44 pages, top notch info

God, they let all the scumbags in here

Hows things N30? I waded through it all too, stickying the pertinent points would be a good idea though. Lots of top info

Rgds

Richie

stop stalking me rich lol

don't make me ring the FBI on u

It's been alot of work glad you guy's liked it...