Tuning a B1 China replica

everything external looks the same but they weren't thinking straight when doing the internal parts.

Okay jsigone. Back to the squish. Am I right in assuming it'd be a bad idea to reassemble the engine with no HG etc? Would having a machine shop mill a pre-measured amount off of the head surface to bump cpmpression, be a safe way to go?

so has anyone pulled there motor out. there is that spacer thing which i cant get back into place since it is so tight. could someone please tell me what they did to get it back in.

I removed the HG and re assembled w/ Copper RTV. I know i lowered it by AT least 1.3x mm So the compression should be higher and hopefully make more power. Worst case, i'll order a blata Head cap to lower the squish w/o having to mill the head.

Cool facts man,

I heard from a Dutch tuner that the squish should not be less than 0.7 mm, dunno why though...

I found out that the reads, when you exchange them for carbon ones( 0.3 mm for better hp in lower rpm's, and 0.5mm for better hp in high rpm's) will give you some extra Horses!!!
Ima try the 0.5 ones first!! with my 170 pounds: need that power in higher rpm's..
Last night i tryed sum jet setups, and in my 17,5mm carb the best setup is jet88, it's going like crazy now, dunno excaclty yet but i quess it's got a bit more than 9hp right now(with an 100 jet on the dyno it had 8.7hp but didnot run smooth) I tryed all these jet's: 84 86 88 90 92 94 95 100.

ill post the result's of the changing of read's later...

Greet's
and aggain thx for research JSigone..

Arjan

I got a 2 sets of fiberglass reeds I got from Badasstoys, the .3mm was boggin on top, the .5mm was pulling a bit more RPMs from what I can hear and the throttle responce was more solid. Both were tested w/ the 68 jet, I don't have any more jet right now to fine tune the bike. I still ahvea reed spacer to full test out. I'll have a review on those parts once I can get some lap times, and compair mods per lap tim on my local track.

If ur having trouble dialing a jet in, u can also play w/ the gap setting of the spark plug. Don't forget to check teh squish on ur bike. I'm almost 100$ sure that most parts went over tolerance so the build up is goin to vary from bike to bike. Its jus free HP waiting to get used but is lost til something is done about it. I'm gonna try to reach the .35mm gap squish and see if it works, I can always use some gaskets to push the head up to .5mm squish.

In the 4 valve read can you put 1 side the 0.3 Carbon ones and the other side 0.5 ones? for better performance overall...? like a 2 stage read..?
Or.. will it mess up the bike...?

Just wondering....

never heard of anyone doing that.....I won't try that. Reeds are very easy to swap out. Move the carb outa the way the 4 screw remove the intake mani and the reed block comes out. I wouldn't use the smaller reeds unless ur riding a tighter course where the amout of time u spend at WOT is limited due to turns. This is where u'd want the smaller reed that will have more bottom end grunt. U'll be able to carry ur speed from corner to corner better. Our tracks here are to big for the smaller reeds, we spend alot of time with our wrist pointing
down

scooterparts4less has a jet pack (6) for the stock (78) carb. 68,70,72,74,82 and 84

-kb

K thx,

And that read spacer you are using did it bring anything and wats the theory behind that spacer?... and does it go on top of the read ore under it?

The spacer I got from Badasstoys fits above the red block in between the carb. I thought it was for under the reed block between the case. I'm gonna test his reed spacer as is, on top of the block then file the cut out and test under the block.

With the reed spacer in between the reedblock and motor, it is suppose to allow the fuel and air to atomize better before entering the motor. This should increase mid and topend performance. I'll let u know how the test go, I'll have a full review of the products after I finished dialing the bike in.

thanks dude.
http://scooterparts4less.com/web_gas...rb_jetpack.htm

What jet does the stock b1 run?

Read..... "stock(78)" it's all there in front of you...

So we aint the two only guy's trying to tune our B1 rep's Jsigone....
Why aint there more tip's comming?, are they quietly watching what we(mostly you) come up with?????

Blata B1 owners may react to!!!(unless they getting scared by these B1 replica's )

I'm working on it day and night, look up my posts.

I meant the real b1's not the clones.

...ok

the real B1 uses a 88 jet in its 17.5mm carb. It needs more fuel for the added air that the carb flows. My buddy has a extra 72 jet, he said it works good in the C1 with the head shaved down to where its suppose to be. Sanding my head tonight and gonna rejet.