Tuning a B1 China replica

I didn't raise the ports, by removing the 1mm gasket, i lowered the ports. Just got back from firing the bike up.....OMG it revs faster and sounds a bit higher. The sound has changed too. Throttle responce is there like its suppose to be. I can't wait to hit the track in the morning. I'll have 2 hours to dial the bike in before the 1st heat.

Good luck dude! Keep us posted how it goes!!

thanks!!! I'll need it

Tomorrow's line up

(3) GRC RR 8.5hp
(3) DM 10hp
(2or3) Blata Elite 13's 9.2HP
(1) Elite 11 w/ 6.2 polini
(1) Elite 14 4.2 rated
(2) polini 6.2hp 910s
Rex's C1

We're also have a small group driving in from Vegas and have NO clue on what they ride.

So there are gonna be quick bikes on the grid.

you would better results if you set the squish .5mm and raise the ports for timing advance. if you did it the way the tuner said you would raise the timing but lower the squish and compression

my revised bikes come in hopefully in two weeks so hopefully they do not have this issue..jisgone what was your compression before and after removing the gasket?

Kick sum A$$ for us Jsigone!! hope you can keep up with those DM's that would be COOL

Good luck keep us posted!!!

and could you plz say aggain what clutch you exactly used ima get me one too with p# and all...

Thx

Polini clutch complete with a Blata Drum or Zocchi shoes with bi-zeta drum.

i have a polini clutch with a bzm drum.

What is the P/N on the BZM Drum? I'd like to place my order but I need that number to confirm which drim I need. What pinion did you use with that drum?

Thanks,

Banzai !!!!!!!!!!

it's the standard 80mm drum NON COOLING !

So it's the 80mm standard for air cooled and rear wheel drive w/p models. P/N 212.010.007

http://www.midsouthminimoto.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=186

Thanks,

Banzai !!!!!!!!!!

i am not sure what drum it was since i ordered it from dcminimoto. tom told me it was a good choice so that is why i went with it

Assuming that by non cooling Nelson, you mean it has no vents or holes in the drum's outer face. Nothing stopping you from cross drilling it though.

non auto cooling is the one banzai posted, the auto cooling drum has lil waves on the face. This extra metal would not clear normal clutch covers.

My race yesturday didn't go well. I had no topend at all so teh bike was real really bad. Low end was good but never hit the pipe. More tuning to do. I need to check my reeds to make sure they weren't leaking. I had to rejet as well. Long day of wrenchin on the track. I ahve 2 weeks before my next race so that is my new deadline. My bike is in Rex's trailer so I can't check anything til I pick up my stuff. If my reeds are good, I migt have to raise my ports.

Do you think you may have went too tight on the "squish" volume? Maybe try a thick gasket for comparison's sake?

my reeds could be leaking or the ports need to be raised. I know more in teh new few days after I get my bike back. I don't think by having TOO much compression is bad.

Exactly what JSIGONE indicated, the fins on the top of the drums is the coolingversion.
This is the auto cooling drum:
http://www.dcminimoto.com/images/zocchi34.jpg

This is the normal drum that I put on my C1's
http://www.dcminimoto.com/images/zocchi33.jpg

Just remember that if you actually remove material from the inside of the engine it's no longer stock... i.e., it's now an Open class bike.

The inside of the engine has to be left just as it came from the factory. You can change gaskets all you want and play with different base gasket combinations but you can't "modify the metal."

Conversely if you plan to run in the Open class, then port and tune away. Just remember that porting is a pretty exact science. If you don't know what you're doing you'll just end up with an expensive paperweight.