It's completely stock, no cooling problems, no clutch problems,
I've just installed a Del'lorto phva 17,5 mm carb on it, this are the result's:
I've tested this on a dyno(so many dyno's so many result's), it went from stock 6,5 hp at 9700 rpm to 8,7 at 8100 rpm, this result was with an 100 main jet,i found out that it runs better on a 88 jet,not tested this jet though.
Yes the carb is the one Blata uses, you can find this at youre local blata dealership www.blatausa.com <--- this site contains a nice blueprint and parts list too.
you can try a bike store where they sell moped's they often sell del'lorto ore bing carb's too or a motorbike tuner they usually use Del'lorto's too i got mine from a Ducati Tuner wich happend to be a Blata dealet too he got me the part's within a week.
I also found that with this bigger carb the clutch problems are gone, it's like it was ment to be like this(check the blueprint see for you're self)
And indeed the manifold is a blata 17,5mm the airfilter too, all stock blata part's.
I've read in some threats that blata won't sell spare part's to cag owners....
Well they be foolish then in my district there are already 400 china cag's operating, Blata sell's only 40pcs a year, i think they could sell 100 orignal ones all in parts next 6 month's... all those **** thing's breaking .....
The blata dealership i found was happy to sell me sum stuf...
just find a small dealership they be very intrested to sell you sum hehehe.
u can prolly use hte intak emani that came on teh C1 but remove the 14mm adaptor.
I just picked up a Delorto 14/14 carb, came w/ a 68 jet stock. The bike is now more consistant through the power band. I did a squish test w/ a piece of 2mm solder.....it didn't even squish the solder one bit. The squish should be .50mm, So I have to make a new HG to lower the squish and this will also raise teh compression which makes more power.
squish is the gap between the edge of the piston and the top cap. This gap should be .5mm or **** close to it. Any more and u loss alot of power making compression and also messes w/ the power band.
Take out the spark plug, make a "L" shape, stick it in the hole, make sure the solder is touched the cylinder wall and pull the pull starter. The piston is suppose to hit the solder, "squish" it, take out the solder and measer it w/ a caliper. .50mm is the target.
Mines is over 2mm. the HG alone is bout 1.5mm to 2mm.
squish is the gap between the edge of the piston and the top cap. This gap should be .5mm or **** close to it. Any more and u loss alot of power making compression and also messes w/ the power band.
Take out the spark plug, make a "L" shape, stick it in the hole, make sure the solder is touched the cylinder wall and pull the pull starter. The piston is suppose to hit the solder, "squish" it, take out the solder and measer it w/ a caliper. .50mm is the target.
Mines is over 2mm. the HG alone is bout 1.5mm to 2mm.
i checked mine and it was the same. i think i will try some yamabond stuff to see what i could have for squish. when i was checking mine i got the solder stuff suck in there so i just decided to pull out my whole motor and see what everyone is talking about. how do i find out if the ports are not lining up. since i have mine apart i would like to check that stuff. i also noticed the white crap in the water passage. **** china people must have used some sewer water in my bike to test it.
thank you for all the info you gather. i have been doing some of the same stuff as what you have done to your bike. i think i will end up getting the dellorto 17 carb to unleash the beast. i have since ordered sprockets, clutch bell, clutch, and some other misc. stuff. now i want to do the internal stuff on it. again thank you for the wealth of knowledge
i didn't want the 17.5mm carb cuz that would bump me into open class where I think the bike won't be competitive. After looking at a REAL B1 head and compaired to the C1 head, the ports are off on both. Not sure if it was suppose to be this way or not. I suppose u can port it to match the case. The white crap u see in there is the Water wetter when dried. Messy huh. My buddys was the same, when I drained the bike, I also poured in straight distilled water to clean teh passages for water wetter. That way it wouldn't dry where I don't want it too.
I'm glad my info and trials to debug this bike has helped others with the same situation. I have confidense that this bike will rock once debugged, but all my debuggin has lead me to installeding better quailty and performing parts. The carb helped alot though the C1 carb is a knock off of the deloroto but I don't trust the guts and not being able to find the right jet was frustrating. $60 for the delorto 14/14 is a **** good deal. Easy to change the jets too.....now i just have to find the right one
i didn't want the 17.5mm carb cuz that would bump me into open class where I think the bike won't be competitive. After looking at a REAL B1 head and compaired to the C1 head, the ports are off on both. Not sure if it was suppose to be this way or not. I suppose u can port it to match the case. The white crap u see in there is the Water wetter when dried. Messy huh. My buddys was the same, when I drained the bike, I also poured in straight distilled water to clean teh passages for water wetter. That way it wouldn't dry where I don't want it too.
I'm glad my info and trials to debug this bike has helped others with the same situation. I have confidense that this bike will rock once debugged, but all my debuggin has lead me to installeding better quailty and performing parts. The carb helped alot though the C1 carb is a knock off of the deloroto but I don't trust the guts and not being able to find the right jet was frustrating. $60 for the delorto 14/14 is a **** good deal. Easy to change the jets too.....now i just have to find the right one
look here www.angelfire.com/sd2/sdmm/ I couldn't get the flywheel off so I only too the head off till I get the proper tools. I'll have some more pics later and show some of the HG as well.
look here www.angelfire.com/sd2/sdmm/ I couldn't get the flywheel off so I only too the head off till I get the proper tools. I'll have some more pics later and show some of the HG as well.
you know on the rear engine mount which has the long bolt. how do you get your engine back on the frame with that spacer thing. it is so tight in there i cant get the spacer in. i dont know what to do. i took out the motor to see some things on it now i want to put it back in and i cant get the spacer to fit. it was super tight to get the motor out. i am thinking of making the spacer smaller with some sanding but not sure if i need to do that.
I changed the carb on mine also, I used a 17,5 mm carb from del'lorto. But I used the original manifold, I took out the aluminium ring en increased the diameter using a Dremel. And also installed the Polini Power Filter and a 88 jet.
It's going like hell!!
In the next coming days I'll make some pictures to show you all..
squish is the gap between the edge of the piston and the top cap. This gap should be .5mm or **** close to it. Any more and u loss alot of power making compression and also messes w/ the power band.
Take out the spark plug, make a "L" shape, stick it in the hole, make sure the solder is touched the cylinder wall and pull the pull starter. The piston is suppose to hit the solder, "squish" it, take out the solder and measer it w/ a caliper. .50mm is the target.
Mines is over 2mm. the HG alone is bout 1.5mm to 2mm.
look here www.angelfire.com/sd2/sdmm/ I couldn't get the flywheel off so I only too the head off till I get the proper tools. I'll have some more pics later and show some of the HG as well.
Tuning a B1 China replica
Disregard, I read it in the other post.........of course you could put the info here too.
