MX650 mods? - Page 91 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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its going to be a very nice setup 🙂

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Yes!!!! Can't wait!!


Probably won't be able to completely finish this project until after Christmas. Family might buy me the BMS and the building kit which is great news! 😁😀😀
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Just had a thought...


Am I only going to need 1 BMS for both packs or will I need one for each pack individually?

Last edited by Johnneh; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:00 AM.
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So say the batteries that he's getting,
Samsung 25R 18650 2500mAh 20A Battery, and say that you want to run a 13 by 3. These batteries have a high maximum continuous discharge/drain rating of 20 amps individually.
So when you build the 13 by 3 pack, obviously the 13 equals to 48 volts in series. Then you do the three parallel, so when you do that I know the 2500 mAh triple so the pack is 7.5 amp hour. At the same time that 20 amp hour discharge triples? It's just cuz I'm going to be building an old gas pocket bike into an electric. It's going to be a 36v 800w motor over volted to 48v. So theoretically this pack as stated above at 13 by 3 should be good enough? Either that or I need a higher mAh which judging by the batteries I've looked up will have a lower discharge amp so I will need to probably run like a 13 by 4 to get the discharge up. Am I correct on this? And in that case I will have a hell of a lot of amp hour which is not disappointing. LOL I'm trying to dumb it down to 101. For I've never built the battery and I know he obviously hasn't either. I am up for the challenge since you guys have previously stated that those Chinese battery packs suck balls
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Correct adding more rows of cells adds to the capacity of the battery and amps the only reason why I had him split up the pack is for charging purposes this way he would be able to use two cheap Chargers and charge the pack in half the time. Then maybe he can get two or three runs a day in if you build the pack too big than the charging time becomes an issue unless you don't care...

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So this means I would get 80 amps?

Last edited by Johnneh; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:51 PM.
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60+ burst amps 40 amps nominally so you can go hard

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Cool!!

But if I use 2 separate batterys, parallel to each other, how am I supposed to charge them? Would I have to disconnect them from each other and charge them separately like that? If so, then how am I supposed to connect them to each other, if I have to constantly disconnect them to charge? Also, does this mean I will have to have a BMS for each battery?




Sorry I ask so much questions. Lol

Last edited by Johnneh; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:25 PM.
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you can make it one big pack 13x4 and use one charger if you want and use one BMS its probley going to take it over night to charg if your ok with that those battery kits are completely modular you can build it however you want i use XT60 plugs for eatch pack https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-10XT-60-F...31110233&psc=1

This makes things easy to unplug and plug and move around and change and charge and swap between different bikes....

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I think to begin with, I'll make it a 13x4 pack. Then when I save up a little more money, I'll expand the pack, and separate it into 2 13x3 packs. But for now I can live with super slow charging.
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Now you're talking like a pro 🙂

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The motor arrived today!


But I ran into 2 problems. (I connected 3 of my old SLA batterys and 1 of my new batterys to test it)

While looking online about the motor, i found out that, it has a 3 speed control. Apparently if you connect the black wire to the yellow wire, it will run at full power. But when I do this, the motor slows down. If I connect the black wire to the blue wire it slows down as well...


My other problem (I don't know if this is normal) but, when I peg the throttle the motor slowly revs up... is that normal? Or do I have something wired up wrong. The hall wires came on a connector, so I didn't touch those, and I connected the phase wires by color (yellow to yellow, blue to blue, and green to green) so what is wrong?


Here is the motor revving up slowly: https://youtu.be/Z9GH8Wy00iU
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Last edited by Johnneh; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:53 PM.
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that one has soft on. is there a usb program port on it ? bolt it on the bike and give it a try

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Last edited by MrKitty; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:00 AM.
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It doesn't have a usb port...


This is extremely unfortunate... with soft start on, I won't be able to do burnouts wheelies or anything from a stop. 😔

Last edited by Johnneh; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:42 AM.
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sounds like the soft start is at something around 30% you need some soft start or it whouldent be rideable ( around 5 to 10 % )

it must be for e bike convershon bicycle parts wont handle the torque

then it might act different under a load

it might all so be your SLA bank is onley feeding 12 to 15 amps

keep in mind a sensored motor will onley spin up to its set RPM so thats why when you free spin it it goes up past the set RPM then the computer brings it down to the set MAX rpm on those motors its around 5500rpm its going to act completely difrent under a load

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Last edited by MrKitty; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:21 AM.
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I guess today I will hook it up to give it a try. The only problem is I will have to cut the brackets off the motor because they interfere with the frame, voiding the warranty
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Well in that case you'll have a pretty sweet motor to build something else out of like a go-kart or a battlebot or something

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I could put it in my brothers Razor Dude Buggy...

But I cant afford to buy another on of these motors lol...

I think I'm just going to do it... I'll cut off the brackets, and install the motor. (Or I could see of there is any possible way ((even if temporary)) to mount it just to see if it runs better under load.) Either way... I could just keep the motor and sell the controller and then buy a different one...
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i whould just cut grind do what ever you have to...

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Just an update:

We cut off the brackets and installed the motor. But for the past 2 days it's been raining so I haven't had a chance to try it out...

Last edited by Johnneh; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:02 PM.
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