MX650 mods? - Page 94 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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The charger and heat shrink arrived today!!! These were the final things I needed to get my bike up and running!! I can't wait to put it all together. (Sorry I wasn't able to send and pictures). I won't be able to ride it today though. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to ride it until friday. I'll send an update them.

I was just wondering, to keep myself from getting electrocuted or to keep a spark from happening, do I connect the positive wire to the controller first, or do I connect the negative wire first? When I was using 4, 12 volt batterys it sparked every time I plugged it in. (I dont know which wire I connected first). I cant use a connector because I will probably sell the controller because of the high soft start...
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its probley going to spark no matter what but you can conect postive first to reduce it a bit

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Thanks.

This is what the battery looks like. 😀

I we didn't have enough heat shrink, so me and my dad electrical taped the ends of the pack.
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This is what it looked like the day before we covered it in heat shrink. (I didn't have the charger connector yet in this photo) and we put a lot more tape before we put the heat shrink onn
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thats a nice looking Tesla battery pack 🙂

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Very nice. Hopefully this summer I'll build one. I have too many EV bikes. I will definitely not build one for all of them. I finally broke down and got a multi-stage charger for my SLA's. See how that goes
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Nice!

Oh that reminds me... I bought my charger directly from Vruzend (the maker of the battery kit). I saw a ton of bad reviews for cheap chargers on Amazon and Ebay, so I figured it would just be safer to pay a little extra money, to have a charger with a name brand on it, and have a smaller risk of burning the house down....
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nice charger!!! and yes the china knock off chargers tend to over charge packs at the least they will dramatically shorten the life of your pack and worst burn your house down...

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Got to fully test out my bike friday through Sunday and I LOVE IT!! The only thing I have to complain about is the super annoying soft start.

I'm having a hard time finding a controller that specifically says anything about soft start.

By the way, I managed to get 30 mph on this thing. I was on a turn, when I hit 30 mph. But, I felt the front wheel start to slide. So the instant I hit 30 I slammed on the brakes, so I wouldn't die... it might have went faster though, if I didn't stop.

Here are some pics of my bike. And the video is the 0 to top speed with a head wind.

I also forgot to mention that we ended up cutting the top shelf off for the battery... the battery decided that it didn't want to fit after we put the heat shrink on. So I just kind of wedge it between the bottom shelf and the top bar (where I zip tied the controller) and then velcro it in place.

And decided not to use the fake engine case.

https://youtu.be/RUo4-UmUT9c
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Last edited by Johnneh; 1 Week Ago at 09:00 AM.
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I'm actually starting to wonder if I am the only person on the planet who has the soft start problem... I mean I can't find any help online about this... and no one mentions anything about the soft start in the Amaxon Reviews. I even found a guy on youtube that literally ordered the same kit as me, and has no soft start issue. and I know this is going to sound dumb, but could it be the throttle making it soft start?

But the worst part is that the seller ignores me when I ask them a question. 😔


But dont get me wrong, I'm still lovin' my mx1800. It's just that one of the main reasons I wanted the brushless and lithium setup is so I can do burnouts, and wheelies and have tons of power and torque, and it practically impossible to do/enjoy any of those things right now. (It still tries to pop wheelies though 😁 )
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what a awesome bike you pulled off where many have failed i really like the tesla battery that pack is going to last you years where sla has a very short life pluss the benefit of having enough power to power a house with a phase inverter if you really wanted to lol...

Unfortunately sellers of those things are really hard to get ahold of more than likely the seller doesn't even know themselves what it is they're selling all they know is that it's a motor and speed control and they put it in a box and ship it 😞

Without a little bit of soft on it would be unrideable but in your case it seems like there is too much soft on most of the speed controls I have dealt with have a USB port that you can program all aspects of course the budget speed controls wouldn't have this. Seems like maybe they goofed up on the firmware (programming) on those speed controls and now they're trying to dump them at a low price or it's quite possible that you could take the covers off and there might be some switches behind the cover or a little potentiometer that you can adjust with a screwdriver that you can change the soft on setting...

One thing to keep in mind is if it's for a bicycle kit without having massively long soft on duration 1800 watts would literally rip the spokes out of the wheels on an average mountain bike that could be the answer why your speed control is programmed in the way it is.

Can you send me a close up picture of the sticker on the speed control and I will investigate it further...

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Here it is...

Thanks!
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the cool thing is if you hook up the brake sensor wire then you can hook up the cruse control. Lol for long rides...

and it has 6 speeds by defult it is set to the fastest speed.

it uses a hall sensor and it has regen brakeing you need to lock up the back wheel to take advantage of this you all so are going to need to lock up the back wheel so the motor spins all the time so when you let off and then throttle back up the program knows how fast the back wheel is spinning so it will know where on the power curve to apply the power again other wise the motor will start the soft on from zero and ramp up to a jerk.

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The cruise control sounds cool lol. I haven't seen the connector for it though... I'll look for it.

I definitely want to try it out with the back sprocket locked up to the wheel. I just dont want to have to weld anything. Is there anyway to do this without welding?
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Ok never mind about the welding part.
I actually managed to lock the free wheel by zip tying the sprocket to the spokes... idk how smart this is... but there isnt too much torque going to the wheel anyway because of the soft start.

Also, my controller doesn't have a cruise control connector 🤔. Do you think those wires are hidden inside of the controller box?
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Last edited by Johnneh; 1 Week Ago at 06:39 PM.
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"BRAKE SENSE"
16 purple = Not Connected
18 yellow = Not Connected
17 green SL = 5 volts
19 black = GND.
As written, green is a brake sense switch. Connecting 17 green to 19 black halts motor power.

CRUISE CONTROL
26 blue Q = 5 volts
27 black = GND
To engage, get up to speed (30 Watts when bench testing a warm
motor) and momentarily connect 26 & 27. Cancel cruise using one of three methods: one,
again momentarily connect the wires; two, rev the throttle; three, apply the brakes with brake switch conected.

SPEED LIMITER
30, grey, XS = 5 volts
31 black = GND.

Once connected, full throttle uses only 100 Watts or half of full power.

2 SPEED
32 yellow = 5 volts, slow speed
33 black = GND
34 blue = 5

Default wiring is “fastest”, so only connect these wires if you want to go slower. cruise is not affected.

Speed Limiter Watts. RPM
Slow ON. 40 5 1540
Med. ON. 62 5. 2210
Slow. OFF. 84 5. 2825
Fast. ON. 95 5. 3150
Med. OFF. 120 10 3900
Fast. OFF. 186 20 5829*

DISPLAY
13 yellow = Not Connected
14 red = 5 volts
15 black = GND
signal to an hour meter.

that should clear up most of your extra wire questions anyway..

the other random wires are for e locks and small voltage trickles to power little things like cell phone transponders and stuff so the speed control can be used in bike share application's...

And charging but you shouldn't use the onboard charger because you have li-ion with a BMS

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Last edited by MrKitty; 1 Week Ago at 07:03 PM.
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How does it ride with the Freewheel temporarily zip tied to the spokes???

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Thanks for that info. I'll look at the controller tommorow. And I haven't been able to try out the bike because it decided to rain all day, but I plan to tommorow.
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Right on I would think that the two speed switch would be pretty cool if you have it you could wire it up so that you can have a legal switch speed one could be 19 miles per hour and under ( most cities have adopted Rideshare programs and the speed limit is 19 miles per hour on electric rideables) ( make sure to check with city laws on this ) then you could switch it to mode 2 and have all the power... for off road!

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That's a fantastic idea! I'll definitely give it a try tommorow. 😃
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