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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

I've had an old Millermatic 35 (aka The Nuclear Mig) for years that's got 6 taps on the front of it. I dunno about amps at each tap, but I've never needed the top two! With some .035 wire you could probably weld half inch plate.


That being said my biggest problem is seeing and following the gap once the arc starts. Quite often I'll put a tack at the other end cuz the light will reflect off of the bump and that'll give me a target. I'm "shootin' in the dark" and because of that things do get wobbly sometimes. And I get mad ... lol. This is purely a cosmetic issue tho. Back in my stockcar days I used to test my welds on concrete walls. They're fine. I just want them to look pretty.


Sometimes I wonder about the my auto-dark helmet from Harbor Freight. Maybe a better helmet would help. Who knows?



On thinner sheet metals my 1st requirement is .023 wire. That's a huge help. Other than that I use a start and stop technique in that I weld as far as I dare and then freeze. When the red glow from the hot metal goes away I'll pull the trigger and repeat. It's a nuisance but it beats blowin' holes.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

As long as the welds are strong who cares. Get a spray can of 1500F. black exhaust paint, or? Most of my small bikes you can not see the exhaust, its under the gas tank and seat cover.

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post #43 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-18-2019 Thread Starter
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So I went and got myself a piece of aluminum flat stock today and made my own throttle cable holder. Actually I made 3 of them. The first 2 were close but didn’t actually work, 3rd time was a charm. I didn’t take a picture of it earlier, but I’ll take one & post it. Not bad for some dude in his garage with a hack saw, drill bits, bench grinder & some sand paper.
I now have the carburetor mounted and in working order, small win.
Next up is the exhaust...just so happens that the neighbor has a flux core welder he said I could borrow. Lol...I have to put in some practice stuff before I jump into my pipe though...
Sorry for the not so great pictures. I should have taken photos of the piece I made before I installed it.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

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Originally Posted by MiniPilot View Post
So I went and got myself a piece of aluminum flat stock today and made my own throttle cable holder. Actually I made 3 of them. The first 2 were close but didn’t actually work, 3rd time was a charm. I didn’t take a picture of it earlier, but I’ll take one & post it. Not bad for some dude in his garage with a hack saw, drill bits, bench grinder & some sand paper.
I now have the carburetor mounted and in working order, small win.
Next up is the exhaust...just so happens that the neighbor has a flux core welder he said I could borrow. Lol...I have to put in some practice stuff before I jump into my pipe though...
Sounds great....Looks great too!.....I don't knock the tact and tools as that's how I tackle a bunch of this stuff myself.....

Good to know the neighbor is cool and willing to let you borrow his welder....

Its not really hard at all....You just need the wire wheels that can be mounted in a drillchuck to keep the metal clean and remove the welding slag..

When welding an exhaust expansion chamber do a series of many tack welds to secure it then stitch it together 2- 2.5" at a time with a 10-15 minute cooldown time for the welder in which you use that time to de-slag the weld and pre-prep the welding area...

When you do the 2-2.5" stitching you just go forwards 3/16" and do a series or whoops and swoops with a lil back n forth action to produce a nice even solid non-porous weld bead....

A grinder or 80 grit cookie wheels can be used to pretty the welds up too...….

Once you successfully pull one project off you'll be buying a welder and doing more projects like the inner creativity locked with-in just explodes outwards...I just have that feeling....LOL

This is my 83 YZ80 I converted to alky and put an expansion chamber from a Banshee350 quad on it to handle the flow...…...I had to cut and reclock the expansion chamber to get it to work.....



Cag dual chamber revpipe in its infantcy………

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post #45 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-18-2019 Thread Starter
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So I went and got myself a piece of aluminum flat stock today and made my own throttle cable holder. Actually I made 3 of them. The first 2 were close but didn’t actually work, 3rd time was a charm. I didn’t take a picture of it earlier, but I’ll take one & post it. Not bad for some dude in his garage with a hack saw, drill bits, bench grinder & some sand paper.
I now have the carburetor mounted and in working order, small win.
Next up is the exhaust...just so happens that the neighbor has a flux core welder he said I could borrow. Lol...I have to put in some practice stuff before I jump into my pipe though...
Sounds great....cant wait to see the handiwork.....I don't knock the tact and tools as that's how I tackle a bunch of this stuff.....

Good to know the neighbor is cool and willing to let you borrow his welder....

Its not really hard at all....You just need the wire wheels that can be mounted in a drillchuck to keep the metal clean and remove the welding slag..

When welding an exhaust expansion chamber do a series of many tack welds to secure it then stitch it together 2- 2.5" at a time with a 10-15 minute cooldown time for the welder in which you use that time to de-slag the weld and pre-prep the welding area...

When you do the 2-2.5" stitching you just go forwards 3/16" and do a series or whoops and swoops with a lil back n forth action to produce a nice even solid non-porous weld bead....
I bought that X1/X2 pipe. I seriously was just going to chop the stock pipe at the header and join the 2 pipes together.
Yay or nay?
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post #46 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-18-2019 Thread Starter
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So I went and got myself a piece of aluminum flat stock today and made my own throttle cable holder. Actually I made 3 of them. The first 2 were close but didn’t actually work, 3rd time was a charm. I didn’t take a picture of it earlier, but I’ll take one & post it. Not bad for some dude in his garage with a hack saw, drill bits, bench grinder & some sand paper.
I now have the carburetor mounted and in working order, small win.
Next up is the exhaust...just so happens that the neighbor has a flux core welder he said I could borrow. Lol...I have to put in some practice stuff before I jump into my pipe though...
Sounds great....Looks great too!.....I don't knock the tact and tools as that's how I tackle a bunch of this stuff myself.....

Good to know the neighbor is cool and willing to let you borrow his welder....

Its not really hard at all....You just need the wire wheels that can be mounted in a drillchuck to keep the metal clean and remove the welding slag..

When welding an exhaust expansion chamber do a series of many tack welds to secure it then stitch it together 2- 2.5" at a time with a 10-15 minute cooldown time for the welder in which you use that time to de-slag the weld and pre-prep the welding area...

When you do the 2-2.5" stitching you just go forwards 3/16" and do a series or whoops and swoops with a lil back n forth action to produce a nice even solid non-porous weld bead....

A grinder or 80 grit cookie wheels can be used to pretty the welds up too...….

Once you successfully pull one project off you'll be buying a welder and doing more projects like the inner creativity locked with-in just explodes outwards...I just have that feeling....LOL

This is my 83 YZ80 I converted to alky and put an expansion chamber from a Banshee350 quad on it to handle the flow...…...I had to cut and reclock the expansion chamber to get it to work.....

That’s nice, man!
Yeah, I hear what you’re saying & you’re probably right! I’ll end up buying a welder and I’d like to make my own completely custom exhaust for it front to back. Built is always cooler than bought any day in my eyes.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

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I bought that X1/X2 pipe. I seriously was just going to chop the stock pipe at the header and join the 2 pipes together.
Yay or nay?
It sometimes depends on how big the inner diameter of your headpipe is and that goes by power mods..….You saw the vids I posted of the meld using a cheesy 3/4"id headpipe.....

If you plan on doing power mods to get it nearer the 4hp range Id go bigger on the j-bend..

If its 3/4" or 13/16"id youll want a bigger one like 7/8"id or 15/16"id...That lil bit makes a huge difference..

I use 1" to 1 1/8"id mandrel bent headpipes on most of my builds..

These are 1 1/16"id to 1 3/16" id



This is what I did with my rev pipe.....I had to open up the sloppy weld that goes into the silencer....

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post #48 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-19-2019 Thread Starter
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I bought that X1/X2 pipe. I seriously was just going to chop the stock pipe at the header and join the 2 pipes together.
Yay or nay?
It sometimes depends on how big the inner diameter of your headpipe is and that goes by power mods..….You saw the vids I posted of the meld using a cheesy 3/4"id headpipe.....

If you plan on doing power mods to get it nearer the 4hp range Id go bigger on the j-bend..

If its 3/4" or 13/16"id youll want a bigger one like 7/8"id or 15/16"id...That lil bit makes a huge difference..

I use 1" to 1 1/8"id mandrel bent headpipes on most of my builds..

These are 1 1/16"id to 1 3/16" id



This is what I did with my rev pipe.....I had to open up the sloppy weld that goes into the silencer....

My plan is to run this engine like it is, modded intake & carburetor with an improved exhaust. I want to see how this thing performs. So my initial plan is to get that X1/X2 pipe connected to my stock header & give this thing a go.
I want to purchase another engine & tear it down & turn it into something better.
That way my 42 going on 13 year old self can still have something to ride while I also mod an engine up to swap into my “something to ride”
I think it’ll be a really rewarding process in many ways.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

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My plan is to run this engine like it is, modded intake & carburetor with an improved exhaust. I want to see how this thing performs. So my initial plan is to get that X1/X2 pipe connected to my stock header & give this thing a go.
I want to purchase another engine & tear it down & turn it into something better.
That way my 42 going on 13 year old self can still have something to ride while I also mod an engine up to swap into my “something to ride”
I think it’ll be a really rewarding process in many ways.
Good plan......My family can't take my immaturity any more..;-,,not even my nieces and nephews..They all say one day I'll grow up but don't ever hesitate to call me for $$ or to fix their vehicles..LOL

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My plan is to run this engine like it is, modded intake & carburetor with an improved exhaust. I want to see how this thing performs. So my initial plan is to get that X1/X2 pipe connected to my stock header & give this thing a go.
I want to purchase another engine & tear it down & turn it into something better.
That way my 42 going on 13 year old self can still have something to ride while I also mod an engine up to swap into my “something to ride”
I think it’ll be a really rewarding process in many ways.
Good plan......My family can't take my immaturity any more..;-,,not even my nieces and nephews..They all say one day I'll grow up but don't ever hesitate to call me for $$ or to fix their

vehicles..LOL
LOL ! Right on. I’m kind of in the same boat. I think at this point if I actually grow up I may die.
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post #51 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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Alright folks,
I got everything put back together a little while ago (didn't do anything to the exhaust, just wanted to make it run) & went to start the bike.
I set the H/L screws both to 1.5 turns out, idle screw touching the throttle plate, so I gave it a twist (nothing wrong with an initial high idle). Went to start the thing...,...,...nothing.
So when I pull the throttle, it starts fine, it runs great! The thing will not sit there and idle at all though, I have to be pulling throttle for it to stay running. When I was pulling the throttle to what would be a low idle, theres a significant amount of space between the idle screw and the throttle plate. Did I get a carburetor that is messed up right out of the box (like low circuit not pushing fuel)? I don't believe I did anything wrong, seems like the carburetor isn't functioning properly.?.?.?.?
Should have just chalked up the coin for an actual Walbro, I think.
Side note, anytime I’ve run a pumper carb on a 2 stroke (GoPeds/GoPed Super Go Quad), I’ve always bought Walbro and never had a problem with them. This is the first time I bought some junk copy of a Walbro & I seriously believe that’s what the problem is.

Last edited by MiniPilot; 12-21-2019 at 02:57 PM.
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the LSN screw is hidden in the top of the carby inside the brass thing that holds the throttle arm on you can turn it with a small flat bladed jeweler's screwdriver/eyeglass repair screwdriver sometimes they glue it put a small drop of brake cleaner inside the hole and letting it sit there for about an hour will loosen the glue.

Picture coming soon...

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post #53 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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the LSN screw is hidden in the top of the carby inside the brass thing that holds the throttle arm on you can turn it with a small flat bladed jeweler's screwdriver/eyeglass repair screwdriver sometimes they glue it put a small drop of brake cleaner inside the hole and letting it sit there for about an hour will loosen the glue.

Picture coming soon...
Maybe I should have said so in the first place...,...,...this is a copy of a Walbro WT 813. It doesn’t have the needle you’re describing. It has a H/L screw on the side and underneath that is the idle screw to push the throttle plate out a touch.
So while I know exactly what you’re describing, this isn’t that particular type of carburetor.
I’m seriously just going to order a Walbro WT-813 & call it a day. I seriously believe that this will be resolved by simply replacing it with an actual Walbro.

It is very disappointing for sure. It’s been below freezing with ice & junk here all week. Today it’s actually pretty darn nice out & dry & this thing wants to act up.
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i have a carb like that on one of my chain saws there is no sweet spot it has a very erratic idle eather to lean or to ritch im the other style carb has worked out way better for me on all my engines
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post #55 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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i have a carb like that on one of my chain saws there is no sweet spot it has a very erratic idle eather to lean or to ritch im the other style carb has worked out way better for me on all my engines
This one isn’t erratic, you let go of the throttle it dies.
I put my finger in the way of the plate completely closing & then it would chill out and idle. That’s why I think the carburetor is messed up somehow. It’s like it’s not pumping fuel through that 1st hole & it is pumping through the 2nd/3rd holes.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

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Maybe I should have said so in the first place...,...,...this is a copy of a Walbro WT 813. It doesn’t have the needle you’re describing. It has a H/L screw on the side and underneath that is the idle screw to push the throttle plate out a touch.
So while I know exactly what you’re describing, this isn’t that particular type of carburetor.
I’m seriously just going to order a Walbro WT-813 & call it a day. I seriously believe that this will be resolved by simply replacing it with an actual Walbro.

It is very disappointing for sure. It’s been below freezing with ice & junk here all week. Today it’s actually pretty darn nice out & dry & this thing wants to act up.
The two screws are there for a good reason...…….

Try the LSN at 2 turns out......…...Cool dry air is very thirsty air....

As the fuel bumps up the idle will decrease aswell so you may need to tweak the idle screw to keep it from loading up or dying...…...

I have a Walbro WT813 on my highly modified 26cc watercooled r/c boat engine in my 55" Shockwave and also in my 31cc HPI 5B r/c buggy so Im sure you can summize from there the state of the carb being used on a 43cc/49cc engine....

Oh and both WT813's are modified too....







The Carb Kitty posted is the carb you really need...……...Its a real 15mm carb..

They came stock on a lot of the reeded engines in pocket quads,sidecar racers and pocket dirtbikes……...

The intake you have can easily be modified to work with the WYK192 aswell..

If it still acts up make sure theres no air leaks between the carb and the intake …

If you did the fiberglass or composite reeds Id look at those too as you cannot crank down to tighten them or they warp...

For what you have go back to the tin reeds......They work the best out of all and they last the longest too...…...
.
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post #57 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019 Thread Starter
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Maybe I should have said so in the first place...,...,...this is a copy of a Walbro WT 813. It doesn’t have the needle you’re describing. It has a H/L screw on the side and underneath that is the idle screw to push the throttle plate out a touch.
So while I know exactly what you’re describing, this isn’t that particular type of carburetor.
I’m seriously just going to order a Walbro WT-813 & call it a day. I seriously believe that this will be resolved by simply replacing it with an actual Walbro.

It is very disappointing for sure. It’s been below freezing with ice & junk here all week. Today it’s actually pretty darn nice out & dry & this thing wants to act up.
The two screws are there for a good reason...…….

Try the LSN at 2 turns out......…...Cool dry air is very thirsty air....

As the fuel bumps up the idle will decrease aswell so you may need to tweak the idle screw to keep it from loading up or dying...…...

I have a Walbro WT813 on my highly modified 26cc watercooled r/c boat engine in my 55" Shockwave and also in my 31cc HPI 5B r/c buggy so Im sure you can summize from there the state of the carb being used on a 43cc/49cc engine....

Oh and both WT813's are modified too....







The Carb Kitty posted is the carb you really need...……...Its a real 15mm carb..

They came stock on a lot of the reeded engines in pocket quads,sidecar racers and pocket dirtbikes……...

The intake you have can easily be modified to work with the WYK192 aswell..

If it still acts up make sure theres no air leaks between the carb and the intake …

If you did the fiberglass or composite reeds Id look at those too as you cannot crank down to tighten them or they warp...

For what you have go back to the tin reeds......They work the best out of all and they last the longest too...…...
.
Thanks for the reply, Cam2.
I tried turning my low speed screw out more to get more fuel at idle. I had that thing at 1.5/2/2.25/2.5 turns out and it just wouldn’t work. I played with it for about 40 minutes & it would never idle without me pulling throttle, no matter the low speed setting.
When assembling the reeds/reed plate I did look to make sure that the fiberglass was laying nice and flat on the rubber sealing surface before I installed it on the engine.
I thought air leak for a second too, but honestly I don’t know how there would be an air leak.
I can go out and give it a once over again, for sure.
You mentioned that the WYK 192 style works better. I believe I’ve got that carburetor out in the garage.
I’m curious as to why that would be better than the WT 813. I see that you’re saying maybe this carburetor isn’t up to the job with the 49cc engine, that’s a very valid concern for sure. I thought you guys had used these (WT813) with success before, I believe I’ve seen posts with the same carburetor, I could be mistaken though.
I can also swap that carburetor out & see what happens. I picked the WT 813 for the ability for adjustment/fine adjustment on both low/high circuits, I have used them before and they’re great. This particular copy of the 813 doesn’t seem to like me very much (lol).
I will try again, even though I’m pretty sure I’ll be up for another round of disappointment with this carburetor.

Oh, almost forgot...this may be part of the problem, but I don’t really know.
I vented the gas cap with a piece of fuel line & a fuel filter underneath the cap. It seemed to want to push fuel out all over the place & I could hear it releasing pressure. I then took the fuel filter out from under the cap to see if that helped, but it didn’t change things. Is there a better way to keep from the fuel tank getting pressurized?

Last edited by MiniPilot; 12-22-2019 at 11:20 AM.
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

Did you adj. the idle screw both the 192 and 813 have one that opens up the rear throttle plate for more RPMs?? The 813 has a accell pump, when you open the throttle it squirts gas into the bore. Maybe the carb is not working right.
The best gas cap vent is a brake caliper bleed screw, the bottom holes is on the side and you can run your gas return line to the nipple. You thread the cap to the screw threads and use sealer when you thread it in.
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post #59 of 80 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019 Thread Starter
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Did you adj. the idle screw both the 192 and 813 have one that opens up the rear throttle plate for more RPMs?? The 813 has a accell pump, when you open the throttle it squirts gas into the bore. Maybe the carb is not working right.
The best gas cap vent is a brake caliper bleed screw, the bottom holes is on the side and you can run your gas return line to the nipple. You thread the cap to the screw threads and use sealer when you thread it in.
Yes sir, I adjusted the idle screw also. It never made a bit of difference. This is why I was thinking that the low side of the carburetor isn’t working properly for some reason.
I went out and messed around with it some more today to no avail.
Didn’t I see one of your posts somewhere on the site with an 813 set up on a reed plate/intake manifold/WT813/velocity stack/filter?
I’m asking because it’s one of the reasons besides the good adjustability that I picked this particular carburetor for the engine...I thought you guys were successfully using them.
Once again, I could be mistaken.
I hope I’m not mistaken because here’s a Walbro WT-813 on the way right now.
Thanks for the cap vent tip too, I appreciate it.
Thanks EPR
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Re: Broke a rear wheel, so I...,...,...

The bleed screw mod works great. A WT-603 16mm carb is what most Cag engine use carb along with the 15mm. For my twin drag engines I got 2 HDA48 cause the have no return gas fitting. Many choices for carbs.
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File Type: jpg Red Head PP Engine4.jpg (375.7 KB, 2 views)
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