Maybe I should have said so in the first place...,...,...this is a copy of a Walbro WT 813. It doesn’t have the needle you’re describing. It has a H/L screw on the side and underneath that is the idle screw to push the throttle plate out a touch.
So while I know exactly what you’re describing, this isn’t that particular type of carburetor.
I’m seriously just going to order a Walbro WT-813 & call it a day. I seriously believe that this will be resolved by simply replacing it with an actual Walbro.
It is very disappointing for sure. It’s been below freezing with ice & junk here all week. Today it’s actually pretty darn nice out & dry & this thing wants to act up.
The two screws are there for a good reason...…….
Try the LSN at 2 turns out......…...Cool dry air is very thirsty air....
As the fuel bumps up the idle will decrease aswell so you may need to tweak the idle screw to keep it from loading up or dying...…...
I have a Walbro WT813 on my highly modified 26cc watercooled r/c boat engine in my 55" Shockwave and also in my 31cc HPI 5B r/c buggy so Im sure you can summize from there the state of the carb being used on a 43cc/49cc engine....
Oh and both WT813's are modified too....
The Carb Kitty posted is the carb you really need...……...Its a real 15mm carb..
They came stock on a lot of the reeded engines in pocket quads,sidecar racers and pocket dirtbikes……...
The intake you have can easily be modified to work with the WYK192 aswell..
If it still acts up make sure theres no air leaks between the carb and the intake …
If you did the fiberglass or composite reeds Id look at those too as you cannot crank down to tighten them or they warp...
For what you have go back to the tin reeds......They work the best out of all and they last the longest too...…...
Thanks for the reply, Cam2.
I tried turning my low speed screw out more to get more fuel at idle. I had that thing at 1.5/2/2.25/2.5 turns out and it just wouldn’t work. I played with it for about 40 minutes & it would never idle without me pulling throttle, no matter the low speed setting.
When assembling the reeds/reed plate I did look to make sure that the fiberglass was laying nice and flat on the rubber sealing surface before I installed it on the engine.
I thought air leak for a second too, but honestly I don’t know how there would be an air leak.
I can go out and give it a once over again, for sure.
You mentioned that the WYK 192 style works better. I believe I’ve got that carburetor out in the garage.
I’m curious as to why that would be better than the WT 813. I see that you’re saying maybe this carburetor isn’t up to the job with the 49cc engine, that’s a very valid concern for sure. I thought you guys had used these (WT813) with success before, I believe I’ve seen posts with the same carburetor, I could be mistaken though.
I can also swap that carburetor out & see what happens. I picked the WT 813 for the ability for adjustment/fine adjustment on both low/high circuits, I have used them before and they’re great. This particular copy of the 813 doesn’t seem to like me very much (lol).
I will try again, even though I’m pretty sure I’ll be up for another round of disappointment with this carburetor.
Oh, almost forgot...this may be part of the problem, but I don’t really know.
I vented the gas cap with a piece of fuel line & a fuel filter underneath the cap. It seemed to want to push fuel out all over the place & I could hear it releasing pressure. I then took the fuel filter out from under the cap to see if that helped, but it didn’t change things. Is there a better way to keep from the fuel tank getting pressurized?