Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019 Thread Starter
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Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Let me start off saying Iíve ridden smaller pocket bikes but they were automatic and never have ridden anything two wheeled except mopeds. I recently purchased a Boom Ninja SR9 125CC aka the Venom X-22. Iím a fan of the way it looks and I chose to get a 125 so I can familiarize myself with riding a bike before trying to go fast. That being said I still want to upgrade my bike to make it my own and mod it. I am mechanically inclined and fix my own car so doing the work myself wouldnít be an issue.
As of now Iíd like to install a 170cc big bore kit, a mikuni carb, a new spark plug and LED headlights. I would also be interested if there was a way to swap in a 250cc if thereís a way. I plan to run Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W-40 and 93 octane gas. Would any of you X-22 owners care to chime in if youíve
done any of the mods or have some info to add as well as what size bulbs are you guys using for your bikes?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019
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I think you whould be better off just tunning that thing and ridding it as is then when your tired of it sell it and get something like a Kawasaki Ninja 250R it will be a lot cheaper in the long run and safer...

those honda clone engines start having transmishon problems mutch over 150cc...

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

My plan was to upgrade bikes after I got accustomed to this anyway. Iíd still like to have this around as a little toy, are there any known engines that will swap into this with a reliable transmission?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019
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any of the honda or honda clone pit bike engines with electric start will work you basicly got a bike with one of the biggest engines all ready in it the next thing bigger that will bolt in is a daytona anima 190CC flx but it's 1300$ and not known for there longevity allso with that your at the cost of a used Japanese branded bike...

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019
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Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by guyintheredhonda View Post
My plan was to upgrade bikes after I got accustomed to this anyway. Iíd still like to have this around as a little toy, are there any known engines that will swap into this with a reliable transmission?
In the form it is in it is in fact a toy even with the full auto transmission...From what I see what youre trying to do is make it a lil more grown up..Buying something like a 1255cc SSR pitbike then swapping engines comes to mind although Id rather motard the SSR out and have a better riding bike....

Sounds like you shouldve bought yourself a 125cc EFI powered street legal Grom...They can be modified to run 100mph and its a genuine Honda made in Japan plus comes with a warranty also to mention Groms resale alot better than chinese made bikes too...

Do you even have the bike and ridden it yet? By the way the post is worded is like you just bought it and are awaiting its arrival ad already want to upgrade it without even seeing what its about first..

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Last edited by CAM2; 02-10-2019 at 11:34 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Hey Cam, this model doesnít have a full auto trans and is in fact a 4 speed manual. I didnít want a pit bike as Iím commuting to work everyday and I need something that can atleast hold my glasses and gloves and lunch for work. It gets good gas mileage and I just want to know would modifications I could do further down the line. I havenít received the bike as yet youíre right but I always am up for a good project. Currently in the middle of turbocharging a Honda 4 cylinder engine.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019
Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Did you buy this bike from Venom Motorsports in Canada?? I hope you used Visa or Paypal, a few people hear have been screwed buy them. Broken body parts and stuff and they its hard to get them to replace anything. They have another name also. When it comes you need to be there to open the box in the truck if possible so you can refuse it and send it back, if its broken etc. If you try to send it back on your own it will cost $400. PayPal protects you, and deals with them for you to get your money back etc. Visa has saved me before also.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019
Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Also there are 2 engines they call a 125cc, a 110cc with a 56.25mm stroke and 52.4mm stroke. 120cc and the real 124cc 54mm stroke 54mm bore a much better engine, which do you have?? Look on the black engine cyld there are numbers cast into it. ccm123 or 124 is the real 125, and the ccm120 is not.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019
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Re: Just bought a Super Pocketbike and would like some advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by guyintheredhonda View Post
Hey Cam, this model doesnít have a full auto trans and is in fact a 4 speed manual. I didnít want a pit bike as Iím commuting to work everyday and I need something that can atleast hold my glasses and gloves and lunch for work. It gets good gas mileage and I just want to know would modifications I could do further down the line. I havenít received the bike as yet youíre right but I always am up for a good project. Currently in the middle of turbocharging a Honda 4 cylinder engine.
Groms aren't pitbikes also to mention the toy you bought turned into the need to be turned into transportation now too...,,,

Once you get the bike uncrated I guarantee the happiness will quickly fade and the realizations of why the bike was so cheap when you see the cheap azz switches that aren't waterproof and oxidize quickly,cheesy plastic that cracks when you sit on it and welds that look like Helen Keller did herself will quickly hit you then as the stuff starts falling off and breaking will disgust you but you sound like you are in this for the long haul and prepped to stick it out so I gotta applaud that will to take on that type of mission as Ive done similar myself with like 6 super pocketbikes...

Id rather put the time energy and $$$ into that turbo Honda project...Oh wait;- I did....LOL

Groms are mini streetfighter models and are classified as a street legal motorcycle..What makes them better is theyre computer controlled electronic fuel injected which meters fuel and controls engine temps not to mention made of way better quality materials and parts..

My advice and the easiest thing to do is find a nice backpack that has zippers and Velcro....Youll be able to transition a lot easier and keep your things safer..I use a Camo Assault backpack from the US Gov't Military surplus auctions I buy stuff from..

I guarantee youll buy one too especially when you have to ride with repair tools and extra bolts/screws/tywraps/ duct and electrical tape, electrical contact cleaner,silicone spray....LOL



As far as a project for your new bike...The bike itself will become your master and you its slave in the beginning as if you decide to pull it from the box gas it up and ride it as is it will literally start losing bolts pretty quickly if you don't have problems keeping it running..

The bolts are another thing of a marvel too...Theyre stamped a grade that is false on them as theyre made of fragile potmetal and atleast 80% will need to be swapped out unless youre content riding in traffic with sketchy footpeg and clip-on bolts...Once the sprocket bolts shear youll have some time drilling them out and retapping the rim hub..Even the bake rotors are held onto the hub with dangerous and sketchy potmetal bolts.

I replaced 70% of mine with 8 and 8.8 grade quality hardware....

These bikes are built and assembled by Chinese kids..China has no labor laws concerning children.They don't pre-run them or torque anything to specs...

First thing I'd do is remove the bodykit and put it in a safe place...Its gonna be off for a lil while not to mention the cheap Chinese acrylic plastic isn't fuel friendly either and will start to melt and warp when the fuel overflows out of the crappy carb also to mention doesn't have a fuel control switch..

Youre gonna notice is that you have to pull the clutch to disengage the neutral safety syetem to get the bike started electrically....Youll also notice everytime the clutch is pulled the brakelight will activate too and is pretty difficult to separate both .....LOL....


You can go the easiest route by clipping the wires coming from the clutch and putting it over to the front brake reservoir microswitch on the hydraulic front brake reservoir but you wont have a rear brake pedal activation or even have a rear running light..

Youll need to do a full lighting system add-on harness for the rear brakelight/rear running light.You may also need a footpedal switch for the brakelight..

Pull it out of the crate,,put proper 10w/40 Motorcycle engine oil in the crankcase and put proper D O T 4 brake fluid in the brake system as both are environmentally friendly crap thats mineral oil based.The fork oil is a joke too...Ö

Youre gona find that the brakes stop like crap...The best thing to do is remove the rotors and rough them up with 100 grit on a cookie wheel then going to the motorcycle shop and matching up the pads in the EBC brake pad book and using quality Kevlar based pads..

The calipers will need to be disassembled and the caliper insides dremeled to give the pistons the proper clamping pressure too....

Pull the clutch and throttle cable off and hit them with cable lube using a cable lubing tool..

Lube up the throttle housing and tube with graphite.

Lube the chain with chain lube..

Air up the tires to 30psi each....Torque axles to specs too..

You might find as the bike rolls youll hear the pads scuffing the rotor harshly meaning youll have to shim or modify the caliper or brake caliper mount to get the brake caliper centered over the rotor.

The clutch actuation assembly itself will need to be disassembled sharp edges deburred and then reassembled plus lubed with high pressure grease..Its 100% dry in there and needs servicing...

I have a thread on how to do it right which makes the clutch buttery smooth and snap back sweetly.....

Pull the carb and remove the EPA imposed float restrictor tab in the bottom of the floatbowl with a dremel.

Replace the crappy fuelines to 1/4" and use a highflow nylon mesh fuelfilter..You may find it hard to route the fuelline so the fuelfilter doesnt trap air .. sometimes its a lot easier to drill and relocate the output hole on the gastank or drilling out the original and tapping the tank and either adding a straight barb or 90 degree hose barb to accomplish it..


Modify the inlet of the carb by reshaping it and then polishing it..you can also make the carb a millimeter or two bigger using the right technics.

You can also buy a 25mm carb from an ATC185 with 25mm intake from a TRX90 along with a 12 position adapter to re-clock the carb in the perfect spot if needed..Youll also need a mainjet assortment pack that has atleast 8-10 mainjets larger than testock mainjet in the supplied carb which most likely is gonna be a PZ 22mm..

Pull the exhaust pipe and take a 1 1/2" conical shaped grinding stone on a drill and grind open the headpipe that will have loads of weld which closes up the pipe then pull the muffler apart and remove the internal chokeplate plus use fiberglass header wrap on the pipe to keep the gasses super heated so they exit fast.//

Pull the cylinder head and the cylinder and put a HP camshaft with HP valvesprings and a high compression piston to give it more pep and power.

Drill the top valvecover cap and add a hose barb that will Tee in with the rear crankcase ventilation hose routed around up high into a homemade Velocity stack attached to a HP foam airfilter ..This is called the headbreather mod..It powersucks the heat out of the crankcase aswell as upper cylinder head to keep the valves cooler as youll find these engines tend to lose their chug the harder and longer theyre ridden in a single ride..

If you just leave the engine without the headbreather mod at first it will feel crispy and snappy then it will start losing its punch then start losing topend speeds getting awefully sluggish too the further you ride it causing you to pull over and let the engine cool down..

These engines require frequent oil changes of every 10-15 hours of engine operation and at the first 500 miles then every 1500 miles after that the casecover on the clutch side removed and the oil strainer box removed and replaced..

An external oil cooler and high pressure oil pump helps out hugely too!!

My X15 was only able to handle maybe 3-4 miles cruising 45-50mph before it started pooping out....The more roads with climbs or inclines you have to go up affects engines length of stamina too...

Youre gonna need a jetkit or a drillset thats made to drill jets out because youre gonna need more fuel..

They sell a Blue anodized aluminum race CDI that has built-in duplicator circuits and HP coil that can be further modified with a High tension Sparkwire from a HP car set...

After removing the EPA restrictors,,modifying and rejetting the carb and breaking in the engine right youll have so much extra power over when it was bone stock youll be able to go 1 tth bigger on the front sprocket and up to 7 less teeth on the rear sprocket to get a higher highway speed if needed.

But youll be more worried about properly being able to quickly stop and getting the cheesy pogostick suspension alot more dialed-in so itdiesnt feel like youre fighting an urban war just to get from a to b...

On my x15 streetlegal bike I modified the front forks with an extra seal and added air nipples to the top fork caps..

For the rear shock I got rid of the pogo stick spring and went with a 3 way adjustable shock and bought the correct hand held air pressure pump with gauge that gets it up to 300psi....

Good tires help a lot too...Those cheesy china tires are crap..Youll need scooter tires that are D O T legal aswell for a better much nicer ride plus handling.

Another thing youre gonna notice is if youre adding morrors the flimsy plastic bounces very vibratorily and seeing anything behind you is gonna be a miracle unless you construct some supports out of 1/4" pencilrod that goes from the frame supports to the bottoms of the mirrors...


I still supported my upper windshield with pencilrod supports so I stopped looking like a locomotive coming down the road mainly but instead of adding goofy looking mirrors I went with a much easier to see VR3 rearview mirror camera on my X15...Ö.

Essentially I stripped my whole bike got rid of the cheesy Chinese wiring harness and built my own with fuses n such just like a real streetbike all with soldered and shrinkwrapped connectionsÖ..

The differences between mine and yours is my bike cost $375.00 to buy used and to fully modify it in total was $8-900.00..The bike you bought is 1/2 the quality and atleast $1200.00 plus shipping and it will need atleast $5-600.00 minimum to iron it all out.Keep all receipts..They all add up fast..

After all that theres some killer liking grips n such you can do to add some flair...Ö.

Good Luck



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Last edited by CAM2; 02-17-2019 at 05:25 PM.
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