Luckily I tried the heat right after I posted and got the rest of those butter head screws out. Bought another easyout and was able to remove the broken ones without screwing up the threads. I have since gone through and replaced as many of them with gr. 8 hardware as I could. Good to know on the reed engine, glad I asked before I tried to change anything. Once again, you the man cam2.👍 Also glad I researched the chain differences before ordering any gears. Epr saved the day on that one and going by that and a comment from cam2 early on, I am changing over to the tf8 chain. I think its called that. Currently I have the lame bicycle chain setup so its in my best interest to switch over. I am thinking of sacrificing a few mpg topend for a little more pull off the line. I crossdrilled the clutch shoes but where are you guys finding stiffer springs for the two shoe setup? Id like to get a little closer to the powerband before it engages. Hats off to you fellas for the help and more so the patience.
Heres the process I do to my chains after I wire wheel them and hit them with metal polish....
I mainly use a continuous link chain unless I need an offset link because master links always break at the worst time. Any chain manufacturer will tell you the weakest link on the chain is the master link.
To oil the chain, take it off and clean it with WD-40 and an air hose. I don’t like to use brake cleaner, solvent or gasoline because these will contaminate the oil bath.
Put the chain in a coffee can with 3" of 30wt automotive oil AND a 1/2 of a cube of paraffin wax that you can buy at the grocery store. There will be three cubes in the box, only use 1/2 of one cube.
Put coffee can with oil and 1/2 of a wax cube in a frying pan with a 1/2” of water in the bottom of the frying pan which acts then like a double boiler so we do not have direct heat on the coffee can.
Now place the can with the chain on the stove with the heat turned up to medium or around 180 degrees fahrenheit for 10 to 15 minutes then turn the heat off.
The heat will cause the air to come to the surface of the oil. The space around the pin and roller link will be replaced by oil. The paraffin wax when it melts will act like a seal to keep the oil around the pin in the chain and seal the oil into the bushing.
Take the chain out of the hot oil after it has soaked for at least 20 minutes total and let the oil and wax drip back into the can to reuse for repeating the same process on other chains.
When ithe chain has cooled down there is no need to wipe the chain off just mount the chain back on the vehicle and you are ready to use it..
I also do this process to store extra chains in ziplock vacuum freezer bags..
It also works killer on bronze bushings and roller bearings too...……...