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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019 Thread Starter
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New to the forum.

Hi, I just joined the site and I have a MTA 2 pocket bike. I tried to post on the start here with an introduction but the link didn't work for me. My bike has been sitting for years after the neck of the gas tank broke off. I just started to look for parts and got a new tank off of Amazon. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out good but I couldn't get it to run some I bought a new carb for $10 and now it fires right up. Cheers!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019
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Re: New to the forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004YZFR1 View Post
Hi, I just joined the site and I have a MTA 2 pocket bike. I tried to post on the start here with an introduction but the link didn't work for me. My bike has been sitting for years after the neck of the gas tank broke off. I just started to look for parts and got a new tank off of Amazon. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out good but I couldn't get it to run some I bought a new carb for $10 and now it fires right up. Cheers!
Welcome to the forum.....

I use postimage to post pics.. https://postimages.org/


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Last edited by CAM2; 06-10-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019
Re: New to the forum.

Welcome aboard, sounds like you got it under control, good job. So, what are your plans?? Think you need 6 posts to show photos of 512Kb or less. For $70 or less you can get an engine hp kit.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: New to the forum.

I'm just playing around with the bike now. I'd like to figure out how to get it jetted properly. I have only used it a few times and that was a few years ago until I decided to try and get it running again. I am still running the 25.1 oil ratio now. Maybe after another 2 tanks I will try the 35.1?

I might buy another one so me and my son can have some fun on these together. I was looking at the Cag? Is it about the same as the MTA 2?

And that engine hp kit looks awesome! I'll have to check into it and see what it takes to install it.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019
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Re: New to the forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004YZFR1 View Post
I'm just playing around with the bike now. I'd like to figure out how to get it jetted properly. I have only used it a few times and that was a few years ago until I decided to try and get it running again. I am still running the 25.1 oil ratio now. Maybe after another 2 tanks I will try the 35.1?

I might buy another one so me and my son can have some fun on these together. I was looking at the Cag? Is it about the same as the MTA 2?

And that engine hp kit looks awesome! I'll have to check into it and see what it takes to install it.


To get the engine jetted properly you need a "mainjet assortment kit"or a bunch of stock mainjets and a "mainjet drill kit"to drill your own custom sizes

For me I prefer the pumper carbs..Alls need to keep the engine in the sweetspot is just simply turn a couple of needles and an idle screw.




25:1 is way too much oil...........I break all my engines in on 32:1 and move up to 50:1 seeings those tool based engines have a pretty descent chrome plated cylinder for being cheap crap.....

By the time youre done breaking it in it will be so carbonized that it wont deliver any performance at all until being disassembled and de-carbonized exhaust system included..

The name "cag" is kinda of a slang term for them no matter if its half fairing or full fairing.....

Only the models made from 2003-2007 were totally un-restricted like this old 2006 model I had..Notice the difference in the J-bend size to the 2011 model under it...The bluebike has a j-bend like a spaghetti noodle....LOL

Oh and in case you were wondering about the 3pc HP kit that's under it - its is a 43cc ADA 15:1 alky powered HP headkit that they don't sell anymore and makes a small engine into something else a lol crazier than just adding a couple extra horses......LOL.



The blue 2011 MT-A1 HF cagllari used to go 18mph stock as it was heavily equipped with a few EPA imposed strangleholds which your bike may have aswell....



After blueprinting and porting the stock 43cc engine,grinding in a 3rd port and adding a pumper carb,modded reedplate,modded reeds,lightened flywheel,rocket key,HP sparkwire mod,lightened and windowed piston,HP clutchbell with 3rd bearing support,lightened aluminum clutch,HP clutchsprings,dual chamber revpipe exhaust custom made by me along with a few other things and it was cruising at 37mph on same gearing a few days later along with modified frame..



EPR's stuff isn't the run of the mill off the shelf bought stuff either although it appears to be...

All of his 2 and 3pc headkits have been reworked to deliver the power they claim to give...….The Full Circle Crank they give in those HP kits is a joke as youll find out first hand if you decide to buy one of those kits and install it...Youll need extra padding in the shorts and rubber isolator motormounts to deal with the harsher vibrations they give off.....LOL

The engines are tool engines that are also used in industrial applications like trashpumps,Ice and fencepost augers,backpack blowers etc...The cranks that are put in them are already as balanced as needed due to it needing to operate smoothly and operate with a lot of torque plus deliver longevity...….


In MX and Ski-mobile and Jetski performance 2 stroke engine building when making extra power diminishing as much of the crankcase volume yields better results...

With modifying tool based performance engines that rule isn't even noticed at all and if adhered to will cause you tuning nitemares you cant comprehend til you get the dreaded "claw" from pullstarting the engine to death trying to get it to fire and then stay running while saying in your head..."I did everything the two stroke tuners handbook said to do"...…...
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Last edited by CAM2; 06-11-2019 at 11:34 AM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: New to the forum.

Thanks CAM2 for all of the useful information. My MTA2 was made in 2004 by Salorr Gas Scooter. It was sitting for a few years.

I replaced my gas tank and I pulled the carb and cleaned it out the best that I could. But I couldn't get it to start after the carb cleaning. So I bought one from Amazon for $10 and I got it running and it was running pretty good I guess. Then I let my son use it and the pull starter broke.

I bought a new pull starter and put it on today. It took me way to many pulls to get it going again. I got it running and rode it for a bit till it ran out of gas.

I mixed my oil and gas at 50:1 like you suggested and went for a little ride but it died on me. And after that I would start it and then it would die again.

I coasted down the street to my house. Put the bike on the stand and then started it up again. It would start up and run and then it would rev up like you were giving it gas even though I didn't and then shut off?

Then each time it would start it would do the same thing. Start and then while idling rev up by it self and then die?

I guess I will pull the new carb off tomorrow and see if I can find any dirt or trash.

Sorry for the long post or if this is the wrong section to do this in.

Now I think I might know why it sat for so long last time. Haha ,I probably got tired of messing with it.

Any ideas what I should check first? And I have to check the plug gap too.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019
Re: New to the forum.

CAM2 knows this stuff inside out. There is so much you can do to a stock engine. On sale I get a powerful clone Dremel w/ plastic case, better if you buy a good 10 set of cutters for $30 @ HF Tools.

Empty Pockets Racing: The difficult we do, the impossible takes longer.....
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: New to the forum.

Hi EPR, I understand that CAM2 knows a lot about these. I'd like to get mine to run for more than a tank or two. And are all of these super hard to start? The new pull start that I bought and put on today is already messing up. The cord started to not retract fully after starting or it goes back very slowly on the last few inches..
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019
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once you tune it then it will start on one pull.
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Re: New to the forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004YZFR1 View Post
Thanks CAM2 for all of the useful information. My MTA2 was made in 2004 by Salorr Gas Scooter. It was sitting for a few years.

I replaced my gas tank and I pulled the carb and cleaned it out the best that I could. But I couldn't get it to start after the carb cleaning. So I bought one from Amazon for $10 and I got it running and it was running pretty good I guess. Then I let my son use it and the pull starter broke.

I bought a new pull starter and put it on today. It took me way to many pulls to get it going again. I got it running and rode it for a bit till it ran out of gas.

I mixed my oil and gas at 50:1 like you suggested and went for a little ride but it died on me. And after that I would start it and then it would die again.

I coasted down the street to my house. Put the bike on the stand and then started it up again. It would start up and run and then it would rev up like you were giving it gas even though I didn't and then shut off?

Then each time it would start it would do the same thing. Start and then while idling rev up by it self and then die?

I guess I will pull the new carb off tomorrow and see if I can find any dirt or trash.

Sorry for the long post or if this is the wrong section to do this in.

Now I think I might know why it sat for so long last time. Haha ,I probably got tired of messing with it.

Any ideas what I should check first? And I have to check the plug gap too.
Pretty sweet you have one of the oldies but goodies....Wait til you get your son one of the newer ones...You'll be sick as to how far downhill the quality goes on them...

All of my bikes start with-in 2-3 pulls and stays running basically forever....I have lots of vids...LOL

This to me sounds like a fine time for a father and son project where you can open up and learn about a tool based two stroke engine starting from the inside and while working your way out do a few easy and basic DIY and low buck mods to the engine to give it a lil more uumph.....

As far as you asking if I had a clue to where to start.... I have a pretty big checklist of where you need to go and what you should do..........

First off it sounds like youre getting an airleak from somewhere or your carb float is set way too lean or the petcock s giving you a wicked fuel restriction..

A pertinent place to look is the crank seals behind the clutch and the flywheel.....A bike that old is bound to need some new crank seals installed................

Replace the sparkplug........ NGK BM6A/BM7A gapped to .030" sae

Replace the fuellines and fuel filter to 1/4" and use a nylon mesh high flow filter..Also get a 1/4" inline fuel shutoff..Do the petcock mod to the carb..........Look up petcock mod.

Pull the reedplate and inspect the reedpetals..Also make sure the plastic intake isn't cracked and replace all of the gaskets...

Open up the clutch housing area and de-oxidize the clutch area totally ...Pull clutch off and replace the crank seal.Also check the clutchbell bearing and make sure it rolls smooth and pretty free...

Pull the coil off and get a new one..Coils have a shelf life aswell as a service life...The bike is over 14 years old so its time for a new one..Theyre $10 on amazon ...Put the new coil on gapped to .020" sae and make sure to de-rust the magnets on the flywheel..For a mod take a high tension sparkwire from a car set and replace the copper strand wire from the coil...

Pull the flywheel off replace the crankseal and add a "rocket timing advance/retard 10 degree keyway" plus lighten the flywheel air drag a lil by losing about 6 cooling fins equally.....Also buy an all aluminum pullstarter with aluminum claw…...

One thing about a pumper carb is it doesnt suck the fuel up from a carb bowl...Its spurted in via the pumping action of the pumper diaphragm inside the carb thats activated via crankcase pressure which makes the engine start a lot easier and stay running without cutting out alot.....

The fuel from a pumper carb is more easily injected throughout the engine than by the floater carb that needs a nice steady stream of strong velocity to pull and atomize the mix so it can be fed into the engine.......

Getting it starting and stay running after doing all of that will be alot easier when you go over and reseal the mill also refresh the ignition power...........

Another option would be to just buy a new engine for $80 bux and installing it then using the old engine to rebuild with a lil extra HP....

Good Luck
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Last edited by CAM2; 06-12-2019 at 02:18 PM.
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