Trying to determine the model of a recently acquired large pocket bike - Page 3 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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it turns into a generator once the engine is running then power goes the other way.

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post #42 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019 Thread Starter
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it turns into a generator once the engine is running then power goes the other way.
With the picture I posted, which side does the yellow wire go on? Where I already have it? All the wires on that post are as follows: yellow control box wire, red control box wire, white meter wire, red fuse wire, solenoid to battery wire. From what you said, sounds like the yellow wire needs to be on the other post with the solenoid to starter wire.
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post #43 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019 Thread Starter
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Here. This is without the yellow wire attached to either post. And it's labeled. Which post do I attach it to?
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first thing to do is get some jumper cabeles hook them up to a good car battery if your doing it off a car do it with the engine off then clamp the ground to the engine block on the pocket bike and tuch the starter with the positive jumper cable if the starter/generator spins its good if anything else happens when you touch the positive terminal then your starter is bad

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post #45 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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first thing to do is get some jumper cabeles hook them up to a good car battery if your doing it off a car do it with the engine off then clamp the ground to the engine block on the pocket bike and tuch the starter with the positive jumper cable if the starter/generator spins its good if anything else happens when you touch the positive terminal then your starter is bad
Not as much worried about bad/good starter as I am bad/good wiring. So I guess I'll just trial and error the yellow wire and I'll let everyone know which post was correct when I find out.
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it tags on the same side as the starter its job is to monitor and send the voltage from the generator to the battery and stop sending voltage once the bat is charged

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post #47 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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it tags on the same side as the starter its job is to monitor and send the voltage from the generator to the battery and stop sending voltage once the bat is charged
PERFECT response. That's EXACTLY what I needed to know. Now on to the ignition wires. I've got the "flameout" wires (two black wires coming from the head behind the spark plug) connected to one set of wires on the ignition (four wires in all, two per plug, total of two plugs) and I'm positive it's the right plug, so all I'm left with is the ignition wires to power. On that plug I have the other red wire from the fuse going to it, leaving the black wire open. To complete the circuit, I need to find the accessory power wire that I need to tie into. In these photos, the black wires have the most splices (keep in mind I didn't do any of them), so instinct says ground wires because it's black wiring, but I was hoping to get some feedback to see if that's the case, and to figure out which is most likely a common power wire. It's either the green, yellow, or blue I think.
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post #48 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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Looks like the original wiring on the solenoid was correct. The meter wire goes on the same side as yellow control box and starter to solenoid? Glad I went back to the original photos. 🤣
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post #49 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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This is my last set of photos and then I'm out for the day. First photo is the horn and its wires. One brown, one blue. Neither are marked positive or negative, so I assume they are interchangeable. If I'm right, one goes to accessory power, the other to horn button. Second photo is the wiring harness for left handle that has horn button, lights, turn signals. You can see all six wires: red/white, red/yellow, green/black, yellow/black, blue/black, blue/white. If I wire that into the lights wiring, it leaves two wires unaccounted for: red/yellow, and blue/white. One of those has to be the horn button, leaning towards blue/white. Which means that red/yellow either has no home or goes to a flasher relay that isn't on this bike. That's what I have been pulling my hair out over: how do the signals flash without a flasher relay?
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post #50 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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Answered my own question. Now I just need to know which wires it goes to.
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i use the continuity tester on my multimeter to find out which wire's go to what switches... and to test the switches the ones on the handle bars are known to rust up...

i replace the blinky box with a standard automotive clicker and rewire

the reason china uses a looped ground instead of a common ground is so that the wiring harness can be assembled off the bike

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post #52 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019 Thread Starter
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i use the continuity tester on my multimeter to find out which wire's go to what switches... and to test the switches the ones on the handle bars are known to rust up...

i replace the blinky box with a standard automotive clicker and rewire

the reason china uses a looped ground instead of a common ground is so that the wiring harness can be assembled off the bike
Multimeter is what is left. I've got four "I'm not sure" connections left. The rest have been connected and heat shrinked. Its starting to look good. As for the rusting turn signal switch, Super Lube around the sides freed that right up. Just enough to get it into testing order. Also, I like your idea of using the automotive flasher relay over the cheap one it comes with. I stay stock where I can, but that's not one spot I'm concerned about. Hopping it up will be once it proves itself to me. 🤣 🤣 🤣
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post #53 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019 Thread Starter
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Well, after chasing all the wiring and comparing notes from here and other random diagrams online and wiring experience with similar components, I think I finally have the pocket bike rewired correctly. All continuity tests and resistance tests check out, now I just need to clean the wiring up and get it looking uniform, then I will take detailed photos that hopefully will help others going forward. What I can't do is unify the wiring color thanks to CN doing some serious mix matching, but I can identify circuits and where each connects and leads to. Should be the most complete live diagram seen yet. Thanks to all who helped me with advice and photos and so on. Definitely went a long way. 😎
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post #54 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019 Thread Starter
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And then this broke... Dry rotted cord. But it did fire one time in 30 pulls! 🤣 67mm between holes. Looking for a tougher replacement. Seems plastic and cheap.
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post #55 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019 Thread Starter
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Mine closely resembles the one on the right, but is it possible to use the one on the left instead? All dimensions measure the same and it looks more heavy duty.
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if it wont start in 15 pulls or less the carby is messed up more than likely the diaphragm is dried out or some other problem with it it's not even worth trying to disassemble the gaskets always tear.

there are two different pull starters the moon and the brick they do not interchange you have the brick you need the one on the right

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Last edited by MrKitty; 07-30-2019 at 08:06 PM.
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Re: Trying to determine the model of a recently acquired large pocket bike

That housing uses the alum rectangle pawl w/ paddle, which has a woodruff key and a tapered shaft w/ center bolt. That China rope is heavy string, and if your engine is modified they break even faster. I use #6 chainsaw rope to wind rewind the pulley.

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post #58 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019 Thread Starter
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if it wont start in 15 pulls or less the carby is messed up more than likely the diaphragm is dried out or some other problem with it it's not even worth trying to disassemble the gaskets always tear.


there are two different pull starters the moon and the brick they do not interchange you have the brick you need the one on the right
It's a brand spanking new carburetor. I pulled the spark plug. It looked OK, but couldn't hurt to replace that too. I haven't checked the coil for spark yet, but even with key off it should start by pulling, correct? Even with no battery power as long as all wires are connected correctly, because in the on position the flameout switch is not grounded out as it would be in the off position. Is that right? Am I missing something?
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post #59 of 152 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019 Thread Starter
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That housing uses the alum rectangle pawl w/ paddle, which has a woodruff key and a tapered shaft w/ center bolt. That China rope is heavy string, and if your engine is modified they break even faster. I use #6 chainsaw rope to wind rewind the pulley.
Since the casing was cracked, I'm gonna order another pull start assembly. But I will also order the 5mm chainsaw rope separately and install that in the new casing. Thanks for letting me know all of that before I bought the wrong one! 😎
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the engine should have spark with all wires going to it disconnected. ( its a weed wacker engine)

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