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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019 Thread Starter
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X1 Clutch Question

I have an X1 that the clutch was slipping on. I ordered a new clutch for my son to put in and noticed that there was a regular flat washer on only one bolt on the backside of the clutch shoes between the shoes and the the flywheel. Is he missing missing a washer on the other bolt? Should there even be anything between the shoes and flywheel? Do I need to order a bolt kit now? Also, the shoes didn’t look bad on the clutch he pulled out. Maybe it was just glazed and slipping?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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I have an X1 that the clutch was slipping on. I ordered a new clutch for my son to put in and noticed that there was a regular flat washer on only one bolt on the backside of the clutch shoes between the shoes and the the flywheel. Is he missing missing a washer on the other bolt? Should there even be anything between the shoes and flywheel? Do I need to order a bolt kit now? Also, the shoes didnít look bad on the clutch he pulled out. Maybe it was just glazed and slipping?

Its possible the clutch was slipping from the pads and the drum being glazed as its very common..

The new pads will reglaze just as fast if you dont use 100 grit to get rid of the build-up and roughen the drum..

Another thing that causes pads to glaze it is oxidation and rust that hinders the throw-out of the clutch arms that accumulates on the shoulder bolts and in the pad mount holes//..A novice rider that blips the throttle is another culprit to glazing the clutchpads and clutch drum..With these bikes you basically gotta stab the throttle, hold-on and go ;- Not feathering or blipping the throttle on takeoff or when riding no matter how cool it sounds and feels...

The flat washers behind the pads are needed and the wavy washers on the outside under the hex head arent needed..You don't want the clutch arms touching the flywheel or sitting in the clutch drum slightly askew...

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Last edited by CAM2; 04-10-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis View Post
I have an X1 that the clutch was slipping on. I ordered a new clutch for my son to put in and noticed that there was a regular flat washer on only one bolt on the backside of the clutch shoes between the shoes and the the flywheel. Is he missing missing a washer on the other bolt? Should there even be anything between the shoes and flywheel? Do I need to order a bolt kit now? Also, the shoes didn’t look bad on the clutch he pulled out. Maybe it was just glazed and slipping?

Its possible the clutch was slipping from the pads and the drum being glazed as its very common..

The new pads will reglaze just as fast if you dont use 100 grit to get rid of the build-up and roughen the drum..

Another thing that causes pads to glaze it is oxidation and rust that hinders the throw-out of the clutch arms that accumulates on the shoulder bolts and in the pad mount holes//..A novice rider that blips the throttle is another culprit to glazing the clutchpads and clutch drum..With these bikes you basically gotta stab the throttle, hold-on and go ;- Not feathering or blipping the throttle on takeoff or when riding no matter how cool it sounds and feels...

The flat washers behind the pads are needed and the wavy washers on the outside under the hex head arent needed..You don't want the clutch arms touching the flywheel or sitting in the clutch drum slightly askew...
Can I just go to the hardware store and match up with washer or are they special sizes? Should I put some anti-seize on the bolt shoulders and how tight do I make the bolts when installing new clutch?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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Can I just go to the hardware store and match up with washer or are they special sizes? Should I put some anti-seize on the bolt shoulders and how tight do I make the bolts when installing new clutch?
Yes you can buy a wsher from the hardware store...Check the magneto for the lost washer...ÖÖ.

Yes anti-seize is good to use;-so is using loctite on the threads..

Bolt torque is like 10 in/lbs......

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks. How do I check magneto? Red or blue loctite? You also opened up the gearbox while I had it off and there is a very small chain around 2 sprockets inside and chain was very saggy. Normal? Also noticed a lot of thick built up grease inside
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

I've wondered about that sloppy primary chain myself, but yeah, that's the way they are.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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Thanks. How do I check magneto? Red or blue loctite? You also opened up the gearbox while I had it off and there is a very small chain around 2 sprockets inside and chain was very saggy. Normal? Also noticed a lot of thick built up grease inside
Just look for the lost washer to be stuck to the magnets or the back of the flywheel or if he didn't remove the fancover look in the bottom of the fancase in which of it is in there you want to get it out of there before it causes a problem....Its steel and the magnets are strong..



I like the green loctite but if you have red and blue definately red...

Saggy chain is pretty normal aslong as the top isnt touching the bottom....

The chinese put food safe vegetable grease in them as EPA safe lubricant just in case the cargo ship sinks theres no real envirnonmental impact from possible pollution of petroleum based products..........

If you go the liquid lube route prepare for the lube to escape the lil vent hole while riding and you will have to frequently check n fill it or you can use silicone grease which is nice n sticky and will stay on the chain longer than regular grease.......

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Last edited by CAM2; 04-11-2019 at 12:28 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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How do you remove the flywheel? I can’t even see the magneto right now.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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How do you remove the flywheel? I canít even see the magneto right now.
You take the 4 fancase screws out to remove the outer cover then you remove the center flywheel nut using a 1/4" cordless impact driver with a 12mm socket then use a steeringwheel puller tool to remove the flywheel from the crankshaft...

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...set/555516_0_0

I would do the flywheel mod and the rocket key since youve gone this far..Maybe even a boost bottle setup..

Those engines are 43cc and 1.6hp and need all the help they can get..............






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Last edited by CAM2; 04-11-2019 at 12:48 PM.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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I’m not familiar with any of these mods? My clutch only has a single spring in the middle too
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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Iím not familiar with any of these mods? My clutch only has a single spring in the middle too
Yeah this is the one youre seeing,,,,same exact technique to removing the fancase cover and the flywheel... ..


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Last edited by CAM2; 04-11-2019 at 12:55 PM.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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I just removed the fan case and found the washer in there. Thank you
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Re: X1 Clutch Question

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I just removed the fan case and found the washer in there. Thank you

Thats where it usually falls...LOL

You're Welcome.

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Re: X1 Clutch Question

You can buy an hp spring for your clutch online, it makes the engine revv higher before the pads engauge, giving you more take off power. Lightening the clutch arms helps with that also, same fore the flywheel etc., or any moving parts.
Total bike weight is your biggest enemy for take off and top speed.
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