Help identifying this crank - Page 7 - Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
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post #121 of 139 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018 Thread Starter
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I know there's been people wondering and asking about the nitrous pocket bike...

Yes I'm talking about the one with the software controlled progressive rate Arduino based nitrous controller...

The answer to the question yes it's still happening sorry about procrastinating on getting everything together this summer has been a huge hassle I've had multiple engine problems in my work vehicles legal problems and just general problems in life altogether lol...

Here is the update
. The software is finished has been tested and functions the hard part is over.

I have been sourcing the parts to build the engine for this project when I first started the project I thought that I was going to be able to use the engine that I currently have in my CAG to make a long story short a boost ported engine with windowed piston and crappy low-quality rings just is not going to work.

The answer to the problem is to use chromoly rings the problem is they don't make chromoly rings for pocket bikes...

The answer to this problem is to order chromoly rings for a 44 mm piston and then build the engine around that lol I have gathered up a piston to fit the Rings and a crank to fit the piston now I just need a CAG block and 44mm jug and a pumper Carby to make everything work maybe in a week or two when I get paid unless somebody has something laying around they would like to send me on the cheap because I can get a whole engine for about 50 bucks...

To sum it up yes the project is slow but it is happening I'm starting to get very excited about it...
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Re: Help identifying this crank

We have faith that you will get the job done. I would buy a $50 engine, cases alone are $25, plus bearings and seals, plus a lot of extra parts. Shipping cost are getting to high. I sent a 7.5 lb USPS priority mail box to Canada today, $47.75

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post #123 of 139 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018 Thread Starter
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I just finished the exhaust for the nitrous CAG what do you guys think ???
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Re: Help identifying this crank

Wish I knew, need to test it. I can tell you this, its going to be loud.

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Re: Help identifying this crank

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I just finished the exhaust for the nitrous CAG what do you guys think ???

Looks about right..................

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post #126 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018 Thread Starter
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almost got this project finished then it's back to pocket bikes
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post #127 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018 Thread Starter
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I might drop it in this weekend idk
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Re: Help identifying this crank

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I might drop it in this weekend idk
Not bad.....only 5 weeks to complete the beasty rebuild...

I noticed in your rebuild you re-used the BS.....

I thought you were the type of guy to want the most out of anything you ride or drive like your drift truck and seeings you went and torn down that engine Id of atleast gave it some porting and mods like BS removal mod and Double roller t-chain install aswell as slightly heavier weight valve springs.........

The mod is good for some really sweet kick in the pants lowend torque plus raises the power level aswell as acceleration in the upper rpm's plus improves engine reliablity because it diverts less oil to the upper end at high revs keeping alot more oil in the oilpan to prevent another spun bearing not to mention removes reciprocating weight......

In the avatar car theres a 3800 supercharged engine with the BS delete mod..

On the turbo Lesabre I didnt have to remove the shaft seeings it has a 3 block in it which is devoid of the BS.....

Use a high zinc based oil and a really good oil filter like Mobil1 or K&N to break it in...Those budget internals will thank you....

Change the oil filter at 500 miles and cut it open to inspect the amount of metal particulate...Theres supposed to be some metal but not alot........

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Last edited by CAM2; 10-07-2018 at 12:06 AM.
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post #129 of 139 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019 Thread Starter
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yes I did leave in the BS and it's still a topic of conversation between me and my friend sometimes I wish I had deleted it and other times when I'm idling I'm happy that I left it in.

I did like you said and changed the oil at 500 miles I cut open the filter and there was a little bit of metal in it not mutch.

just changed the oil at 1500 miles cut open the filter and no metal inside.

the car runs and sounds awesome with the flowmaster I did leave the resonator alone.

I haven't gotten to drive it mutch seams it's completely worthless in the snow lol.
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Re: Help identifying this crank

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yes I did leave in the BS and it's still a topic of conversation between me and my friend sometimes I wish I had deleted it and other times when I'm idling I'm happy that I left it in.

I did like you said and changed the oil at 500 miles I cut open the filter and there was a little bit of metal in it not mutch.

just changed the oil at 1500 miles cut open the filter and no metal inside.

the car runs and sounds awesome with the flowmaster I did leave the resonator alone.

I haven't gotten to drive it mutch seams it's completely worthless in the snow lol.
Thats odd to hear...You must have crappy tires n struts....Every fwd car Ive owned over the years was the best at getting around quickly in the snow in fact alot of them were better handling than my 2009 Lifted Dodge 1500 Hemi 4 door on a 6" lift and 35" tires..


I had an 89 Pontiac McLaren Turbo Grand Prix back in the mid 90's..Drove it through a 4 state snowstorm down I-95 my last year of college going no slower than 85mph all the way.....Car handled like it was on rails...

That's good news on the break-in....

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post #131 of 139 (permalink) Old 02-06-2019 Thread Starter
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The entire truth is it has a bad wheel speed sensor unfortunately it's encased in the bearing hub and the whole hub assembly has to be replaced im not doing that in the snow once I fix it I'll get my traction control back and my ABS brakes.

back to pocket bikes I'm going to build a new engine and i was wondering is there any way to tell which engines have the 44 mm jug of course I'm going to want to stuff a weed wacker piston in it.

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Re: Help identifying this crank

Both the 49cc piston port and reed port engines have a 44mm cyld. The R/P 47cc and P/P 43cc engines have a 40mm bore. The P/P rod is 2mm longer than the R/P making it a true 49cc, the reed port is not 49cc. The 47cc R/P has a lighter 10mm rod end crank, the 49cc has a heavier 12mm rod end. The P/P has a 10mm rod end.

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Re: Help identifying this crank

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The entire truth is it has a bad wheel speed sensor unfortunately it's encased in the bearing hub and the whole hub assembly has to be replaced im not doing that in the snow once I fix it I'll get my traction control back and my ABS brakes.

back to pocket bikes I'm going to build a new engine and i was wondering is there any way to tell which engines have the 44 mm jug of course I'm going to want to stuff a weed wacker piston in it.
Im well aware of them Ive changed my fair share over the years for myself,family and friends and not more than a mere hour tops to change one out and quite easy to do..

Last hub bearing I did was on my GMC worktruck and only took 30 mins seeings its not front wheel drive and I didn't use any fancy lift or powertools either..Just a floorjack,36mm axle socket and 15mm gear wrench to loosen the hub bearing bolts after taking off the tire.

After that the bearing slides out of the knuckle after you disconnect the sensor wire..

For running nitrous you need to get yourself a ceramic coated flattop piston and use a 40mm 1pc cylinder that has no decompression notch...You need to have a space for super abundant volume of air/fuel and oxidizer mix to work its magic and produce its punch..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-3...-oUI:rk:2:pf:1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25381841134...m=253818411346

BTW what ever happened to that elaborate Arduino board nitrous system setup you were cooking up...?...Looks like you were using a novelty nitrous system type setup through a mini UFO saucer type airfilter..

Ive said it a ton of times and Ill say it again..The gains and fun you get from injecting nitrous into a 2 stroke engine arent anything compared to actually building a proper high performance 2 stroke engine that runs on E-85 ethanol or even methanol/alky mix which gives ya a way more bang for the buck seeings youre injecting the nitrous through the rear of the carb instead of behind the reeds which puts a lot of strain on keeping the reeds closed with pressure exerted behind them that's why piston ported engines make way better candidates for nitrous,,....

As of yet I fail to see any vids showing any advantages of putting nitrous on a tool based engine with the engine type and the methods you chose to deliver it..

Below is the reeded engine the Chinese ripped off and bears similarities to the Blata 2.5/2.6 engine which is Robin Based and the newer version in picture 2 is also a Robin model # FL-411 NB


Good Luck
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Last edited by CAM2; 02-11-2019 at 02:30 AM.
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post #134 of 139 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019 Thread Starter
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idk it works but it never made it out of the back pack and on the bike and I still need to find a small fuel pump I should of just riged up e85 but I have spent the the money on all this stuff now
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Re: Help identifying this crank

Get a 16mm Walbro HDA48D pumper carb and manifold or 19" W HDA223B pumper/purge carb and I believe you can get an Alcohol gasket set for either. They sell a 15mm black plastic intake manifold for a 15mm pumper carb for a Cag engine, you can bore that to 15.88mm and mod the pulse port to fit the 16mm carb if you don't like the alum manifold. for the 19mm Walbro 223 it took a 16mm alum Cag manifold and hogged it out to 19mm and a 16mm V-stack to 19mm. I would put a hose fitting in the front/center off the air cleaner and spray the No2 into the face mouth.
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post #136 of 139 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019 Thread Starter
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I'm going to start looking for a second bike...

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post #137 of 139 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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got the engine i rebuilt for my van in
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Last edited by MrKitty; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:38 PM.
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Re: Help identifying this crank

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got the engine i rebuilt for my van in
Perfect vehicle for a V8 swap.....

I have a friend of a friend that's kinda into those things...He always removes the front bumper ,radiator and the grill to remove the engine ..You couldve gotten the engine in and out alot easier and you could've replaced the damaged pieces aswell.

Those V6's even the TBI models are kind of gutless.....He usually goes with some ported and prepped Vortec heads,compu cam that enhances torque along with Accel, ignition module also accel supercoil,1.6 ratio rocker arms,305 throttle body hooker shorty headders and a tune burned onto the eprom chip...

When built right that whimpy V6 gains a hundred lbs of torque and 75 extra hp..

Some he even installs a Vortec gearcharger to bring the hp of the V6 to around 400hp..

Have fun

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Last edited by CAM2; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:38 AM.
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post #139 of 139 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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it runs awsome but like your saying it's really gutless in the horsepower category
i have a carby for it a 550 should work ok its a off road carby made for Wheeling but i have to get a new distributor and then figure out how I'm going to shift the transmission... then ill get a electric fan and a comp cam...
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