Sounds like you have plenty of endplay to move things around...
He does but its more like mill more aluminum away...…......……….
Was thinking exactly the same thing.
Nice looking motor all things considered. Should be super cool once you sort out those little issues.
Those little issues are a lil more than just little seeings DriverD sold EPR a billet case that was no less than 85-90% finished and never proven to work...
Your absolutely right about it being a killer engine when done and when finally done and running it will be stqted as its about time...If Im correct its been atleast 3 years since he bought that billet case...
Ill give ya the cliff notes...case is made too wide to seal the transferports and crank hits the crankcase without having .016" of spacers on each side to force the crank to stay centered and not hit the case...When the crank sideloads at high rpm the spacers will eventually flatten and the crank will start knocking badly..
DriverD also machined the main bearing holes to deep, so the crank ends were rubbing the side of the cases inside. So, I put four .004" Zenoah 15mm ID crank shims, 4 on each side to stop.
Need to keep the case halves as close together as possible cause the main trans case port are really wide, very little sealing area at the base of the cyld, plus some other small problems
Going put a new head, blue billet winged head on this time. Here are some photos the last time I put it together.
Im absolutely sure if EPR couldve done that very easy to do method of grinding both case halves on a flat surface he wouldn't even be here with this thread ?
Im also absolutely sure I read that 4 spacers were used on each side to keep the crank weights from hitting the case.....
Im pretty sure he also wrote that the transfer ports were still pretty wide and would barely seal ..
Whats gonna stop the crankweights from getting even closer to the outer jug area and hitting again when atleast .025-.030" of material on the case half sealing areas still needs to be removed to achieve a flawless and correct seal at the base of the cylinder for the transferports when the cylinder is sealed down..? I quoted the areas EPR wrote and spaced them so they could be read better also better understood...…..
It is a given fact that the method of just simply grinding the case halves down on something flat would only be half of the fix also a laborious task seeings he has to remove so much material to achieve a good cylinder base seal and would present even further unforeseen problems when trying to reinstall the crank like crank no fit no more....LOL...
That case needs to be re-milled to the right specs...