Pocketbike Forum banner

First mods, case reed engine

30K views 400 replies 8 participants last post by  silverbullitt7 
#1 ·
Hey guys! Has anyone just done one mod at a time and recorded the results?? What is the best first mod, a couple best mods, etc. A complete overhaul, all mod engine? Thanks in advance!!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Ive done them just about every which way you can and even compared the results between a complete bone stock engine and the engine I was doing the mods on........


The first mods are lighten the clutch plus add HP springs,lighten the flywheel plus add a rocket key , mod the exhaust, mod the reedplate aswell as reedstopper,, do the HP sparkwire mod and do the pumper carb mod with V-stack and HP airfilter....

If you don't get the pumper carb setup you can mod the stock carb to 15mm's aqnd do the petcock mod then get a V-stack with hp airfilter

Those mods really add alot of power to the bottomend takeoff aswell as midrange punch..






Good Luck
 

Attachments

#3 ·
For the HP wire mod, what wires do you use and where do you get them? The pictures are awesome, they show a lot. I flip a lot of pocket bikes and would like to do the most free or really cheap mods possible. Everybody Wants More For Less and being able to do really cheap mods will definitely help sell them. And for lightning the clutch, do you have a sticky for that mod? Or maybe just some pictures. Thanks buddy
 
#5 · (Edited)
Theres no sticky as far as I can remember and I certainly ddnt make one....LOL

As far as the clutch you weigh all 3 arms then you crossdrill to weight match them then you put HP clutchsprings or you can re-use the springs you have.....


On this clutch below the two holes raises the rpm throwout by 800rpm's on tis clutch and with the springs the clutch grabbed at 3900 rpm's..Its not a total science due to the varying weights of the chinese made clutches but anything that grabs above stock is gonna give you some extra power on the takeoff....

I usually start with a 1/8" drillbit and the springs from the steel clutches.....

This engine is a 5 port so it has way more torque than a bone stock engine...



This one grabbed at like 31-3200..

 
#10 · (Edited)
Ones from an automotive set that are High voltage high suppression..........7.7mm to 8.8mm can be useed but note that after 7mm.s you have to get creative and use some RTV and a splicing sleeve made from the rubber end of a straight plugboot....It will offer no advantages over the 7mm wire but it certainly looks cooler....LOL

The copper strand wire doesn't spark as intensely at high rpm's as the spiral core design...…...






 
#13 · (Edited)
Pretty much as the coil can only generate so much power and the automotive type high voltage high suppression wire just enhances it....If the power of the coil was too much for the 7mm the 8.8 would obviously be an improvement..

The main thing to focus on is both out-perform the stock copper stranded wire that comes on them stock and also to also give the idea to the differences is an easy performance mod versus the extra mod-time to cool factor when it comes to fitting the fatter wire.........

 
#14 ·
Hey guys, question, does anybody know the thickness of a stock clutch spring on these motors? I've seen or so it seems online that the HP race Springs are 1.5 mm thick. The stock clutch springs I have on a brand new clutch and a slightly used one are anywhere from 1.39 to 1.43. So 1.5 should be legit. But I'm curious if anybody knows the size differences. Thanks
 
#25 ·
Dave's Discount Motors in Utah, www. davesmotors .com had a 44mm ID flatter cone filter if you need more room.
ADA Racing, www. adaracing .com may still have some parts for the Cag reed port engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CAM2
#26 ·
A lot of parts you can modify, many ways to mod just a cyld. Some photos of hp parts.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: CAM2
#32 ·
Thank you very much CAM2, the thing runs awesome now but I can just use that old carburetor on something else. I'll make that one of my many winter projects. I was planning on doing a couple mods to this for acceleration. But not too much. Clutch mod, flywheel mod, Rocket Key and now carburetor. Just enough to help a little bit but not too much. It's pretty fun as it is. Although I'd like the foot pegs underneath me instead of behind me
 
#33 · (Edited)
You're Welcome Silverbulllitt7...Im glad everything worked out for the best for you...………

The best part now is you have the ability of keeping it in the sweetspot with the simple turn of a screw or two...………...

The other list of mods you stated definately makes them a lot more fun...

Nice job getting it done......…...Which pumper carb kit did you go with?
 
#36 ·
I will check it out. The Euro bike fell through. It was a two-hour drive and the guy sold it before I was able to leave. It was just a blata 2.5. Which I have one now but mine's running rough then condition is a little rough. Considering I only paid $75 for it. This one was more. I still have my eyes on any Elite 11 or 13 not sure but it has the high horsepower air-cooled motor. I think it was like 10 or 11 horsepower but it needs a new top-end. Like I said before, too many projects you are. I do have one 47cc motor that I'm going to tear apart this winter and attempt some mild porting and every other little mod that you guys told me about. That will go on a mini quad that I've had for 2 years. But I might put it on a pocket bike as well just for Sh*ts and giggles.
 
#38 ·
Yeah, Euro parts cost big bucks, for my 4.2 air cooled Polini the flywheel was $125, coil $88 and so on. I would put Cag parts on the 2.5 and look for a bike with more horsepower. The Blata 40cc air cooled engine mounts like a water cooled engine, not like the 2.5 engine or frame. I have a 50cc Clone Blata C1 bike and clone 39cc air cooled blata air cooled blata in a water cooled C1 clone frame. See what photos I have.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: CAM2
#40 ·
Sweet Bikes! Right now the blata 2.5 I have oh, I want to get it running stock for now. Then maybe modify later. I can already feel the power difference up to half throttle over the Chinese bikes I've had. I did have one Chinese bike that accelerated like a bat out of hell but only topped out at 24 mph. Most of my others bone stock were 27 to 28 mph but very slow on accel. So for now I will definitely be happy doing some bolt ons to a couple of them but excited for the one motor that will get more.
 
#39 ·
I have done my share of small engine teardown and rebuild but I have never ported and Polished. Can't wait to see if I can pull it off. I will keep you guys posted. First will be get some new crank bearings and seals oh, I already have a full gasket set that I've had laying around for a while.
 
#45 · (Edited)
Only if you know how to properly build an engine and have the skills to pull it off will you be successful at utilizing a FCC... ..

For what you want to do I'd go with a stock crank for 40mm and heavy duty for 44mm....

You'd get better results by property blueprinting the whole engine...
 
#43 ·
Ha! I just noticed all the Full Circle pranks from China are 16 mm wrist pin. As a couple u.s. sellers somewhere around 30 or $35 that have 12 mm wrist pin. So you look up full circle crank from China Daddy and they have 16 mm wrist pins. Then you look up pistons for 47cc from China and they all have 10 mm pins. ***
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top